Search query: «"dovetail jig"»

Re: Dovetail jig suggestions

Charles Wiggins

>I bought an old style Rockler jig on closeout for around $70, but haven't had a chance to use it yet. Their new "complete" one is around $140 bucks. If you aren't in a hurry, they do put things on sale periodically. Porter Cable's is similar from I what I remember. They both have the limitation of predefined widths - every tail and every pin will be exactly the same, which is fine if you only want dovetails for strength.

The Leigh jigs have the advantage of adjustable widths, so you can vary the width, and thus the look of your tails and pins. If looks are important to you, you probably want to wait and save up for a Leigh ($400). You can always get an inexpensive marking gauge, bevel gauge, a dovetail saw, and chisels, and do them by hand in the meantime.

Also you could check eBay and the Classified listings here and on SawMillCreek.org.

Re: Dovetail jig suggestions

JL

>Hmmm - $100 or less? The PC dovetail jig runs about $130-150. It is a reasonable one. The Leigh jig runs a lot more.

You might consider checking out the PC 4210.

Dovetail jig suggestions

teflon_jones

>Hello, I'm starting up a woodworking shop and I'm looking for a decent quality dovetail jig to help me makes drawers. Any recommendations? I'd like to find something for $100 or less.

Re: Suggestions for WW Guild meetings.....

Joe Dusel (Vista,CA)

>I belong to the North County Woodworking Club in San Diego county. We only have about 135 members, so we are the little club in San Diego county. The San Diego Fine Woodworker's have about 1500 members.

Our club has about 10 meetings per year with topics including guitar making, violin making, segmented bowl turning, basic turning techniques, safety (we had a surgeon do a very graphic PowerPoint presentation), antique tool collecting, dovetail jigs, bandsaw tuning, router techniques (with Carol Reed) and jewelry box making to name a few. One of the favorite meetings is our annual "Show and Pie" night where our members bring in pies or a project to show and the club provides the coffee and ice cream.

We also have real shop tours at members shops on separate days and have taken field trips to places like Sam Maloof's shop.

Joe

Re: Suggestions for WW Guild meetings.....

Doug Reynolds in Seattle

>R: My Guild, which was started by Michael Dresdner, author and actor extraordinaire, has a monthly meeting. My complaint is that too much time is spent with Guild business and, not enough time when we have speakers from out of the area. Jim Tolpin and Gary Rogowski, both authors with FWW have presented. Guild business should be at the end of the meeting not at the beginning when folks have driven hours to put on a demonstration.

Darryl Peart is in our area and has done weekend Greene and Greene hands-on classes that cover some of the stuff in his new book for the Guild. I believe he has gone back east and presented at other guilds/clubs as well.

Of course, whenever you have guild members present you never know what their public speaking ability might be.

Some of our best presenters have been tool distributors. The Festool guy came with a whole show like you see at the woodworking shows. We have had Dewalt and others. Did visit the Systematic saw blade plant. We also do sawdust sessions ever so often on Saturdays at a guy's shop. The last one had a Stihl regional rep walk us through operator level maintenance. Did not matter what chainsaw you had. Went from about 9 AM to 2 PM. It was great. I learned a lot about my saw and how to really care for it. Another sawdust session demo was with Eli Alversari (SP?), the woodturner from Israel. Great for all day Saturday and way too much for a weekday meeting.

I understand that raffels are a big draw but, I never win anything even when I buy tickets. We also do an anuual swap meet and an annual auction that is well attended.

Mini-seminars are also popular. We may have a half-dozen demos going on at any given time from sharpening, Leigh dovetail jigs, joinery, finishing, etc. You can go see what you are interested in.

Re: router bits

Larry Clinton At Frankfort (Central)., Indiana

>I have not used Amana bits, but I have used several cheaper bits - Rockler, MLCS, etc. I also have several Frued, Whiteside, Bosch, etc. I have decided based on the cutting results and cutter life, that the only bits I will purchase from now on will be Whiteside, if they are available in the style I need. I just ordered several bits (the 13 they make for the Leigh jig - uses 14 total) for the new (to me) D4 Leigh dovetail jig I just purchased at an auction a couple weeks ago. I have found that Routerbits.com - see under Marketplace on the left have the best prices on Whiteside I have found anywhere. As they are a sponsor of this site, I will purchase all bits I can from them.

Re: ***SURVEY: THE IDES OF JULY***

john lucas

>I choose which tools mostly due to speed or ease of the task. Most often this has to do with the size of the workpiece. I can't surface pieces shorter than 12 on my planer. Other tasks like making a tapered octagon on a bed post are simply quicker with the hand plane.

Hand sawing is a different matter. I used to do a lot to develop my skills but now I seldom pick one up unless it's a dovetail saw.

A lot of times it's a matter of which tool you are the most comfortable with. I rarely use my router dovetail jig so when I am just doing one drawer I'll do hand cut dovetails. If I'm going to do 6 I'll pull out the manual to the dovetail jig and "re-learn" how to use it.

I use a brace and bit a lot whenever I make a chair because it's much faster than setting up jigs and angles on the drill press.

Dovetails, Leigh Jig questions

Barry Irby

>I have a Leigh dovetail jig I use infrequently. I just got it out and cut the joints in three drawers. Having forgotten much of what I did last time, I got out the book and turned to the chapter on through dovetails and followed the directions. The mistake was that I did not account for difference in the width of the back. Actually, to keep things simple (?) I made the back identical to the front, cut the joints and then ripped the back down to allow the bottom to pass under it. The result is that I ripped off the end of a pin(?) that would have formed the corner of the bottom of the back of the drawer.

I am looking at one of the drawers I did about two years ago and I made the front joints like the ones I described above. The rear joints are different and The side of the drawer extends past the rear at both the top and bottom. What i recall is that I made the front and rear differently because I used thin sides and a thicker piece at the rear. I do not recall considering how it would effect the corners of the drawer. Did I luck out? Wish I could remember how and why I got it right last time and screwed up this time?

How do you do this? Do you use the same set up front and rear or what?

Re: Glueing drawer bottoms

Bill Tucker

>Actually going to use ply on all 4 sides with a cherry front added on. No dovetail jig available, so plan on using finger joints front and back. From what I've read, they are tough to set up, but once dialed in, everything goes pretty smoothly - I hope, I hope, I hope!

Thanks for the help.

bill

Re: use for an old router motor?

wes bischel

>Dedicate it to a dovetail jig. Set the height and glue it in place!

Wes

Re: Drawer carcass joints...

Jim Dillon

>Morning JL,

As others have said, any of your options (or other suggested options) will work great. I would use this opportunity to build a finger joint jig for your TS and use finger joints. The finger joint jig might come in handy later on for other things as well. However, if you are interested in just getting the job done, then using your dovetail jig makes sense to me. If you want to build a real skill-set, then handcut dovetails would be the perfect way to go, but would take much longer - at least at first.

An option that wasn't mentioned (I don't think) is the router bit designed for drawer building. It is very fast and produces a joint much like the locked-rabbit you drew. I've used it, and it works well.

I agree with David on drawer bottom thickness. Your drawers are fairly big and you plan on loading them up with tools. I would consider 1/2 inch plywood glued all around. Good luck.

Jim

Utility drawer joints

Andrew F in Australia

>JL

Since you've got the dovetail jig there and ready to go, I'd cut the drawer fronts in a hit and dovetail the little blighters.

For utility drawers, I use feathered mitres and keyed mitres.

Cheers,

Andrew

Keller Dovetail jig on sale at Amazon *LINK*

Steve Roxberg

>The following Keller Journeyman Dovetail jig at Amazon is selling for $88 (use code PTA2OOFF in the shopping cart for 20% off price showing will start at $108.) dollars shipped. The jig includes both the dovetail and straight bits and is everything you need to create really nice Through Dovetails.

This jig will not do half-blinds, but does a really good job at through dovetails.

I don't work for Keller, and used to own one. I sold it used for more than $88 dollars when I upgraded to a Leigh D4.

The price will show as $108, but use code PTA2OOFF on checkout.


Keller Jig

Re: Has anyone upgraded their Leigh Dovetail Jig?

Doug Reynolds in Seattle

>Bill: I have upgraded mine to the cams but would be very interested in what the other boards have to offer as I too don't like having to all but take the bar off just to adjust the little plastic "squares".

Re: Has anyone upgraded their Leigh Dovetail Jig?

Bill Grumbine (Kutztown PA)

>Hi Ken

I already have the flipper cams locks, so that part is fine, but it is those stupid little plastic guides that get me. I have gotten some engouraging responses on a couple of other boards, so I am going to go ahead with the upgrade. Thanks for responding.

Bill

Re: Has anyone upgraded their Leigh Dovetail Jig?

Ken Krawford

>Bill, I have not upgraded my D3 but have certainly considered it mainly to get away from screw type knobs for holding the work pieces. The new cam system looks so much better.

Has anyone upgraded their Leigh Dovetail Jig?

Bill Grumbine (Kutztown PA)

>Greetings all

I have a Leigh D3 dovetail jig, which gets used from time to time - not as much as I would like, but it does get used. I get a little frustrated with the wee little plastic stops for aligning the wood square to the jig. So I started lusting after the D4. But then I noticed the upgrade kit, which is a whole lot less money and hassle than selling the D3 to buy a D4. Has anyoone done this, and if so, how do you like it?

Thanks.

Bill

dovetail jigs

Tony O

>What Are the advantages or disadvantages of the Incra ultra 24 and Leigh D4-24 dovetail jigs ?

Are through dovetails possible with different thickness boards using

the Incra model?

Tony

Re: ***SURVEY: THE IDES OF JANUARY ***

C Yawn

>What was it that first sparked your interest in working with wood and tools? And, what were the defining influences or meetings or inspirations that pushed you in your current woodworking direction?

Mosquitoes.

Those little sucking pests that plague my backyard in summer; that�s what inspired my first interest in woodworking.

My wife and I could not enjoy our open deck in the evening because of hordes of mosquitoes. So we decided to build a screened-in deck. No, not yet! We hired a contractor to build the deck, but first, that wood from the old deck could not just be thrown away, so I tore it down and saved as much as possible. Now you see where this is going? Had to find a use for a lot of weathered but otherwise good lumber. Decided to build a garden shed onto the side of the house. Purchased a planer and a jointer to shave the weathering off the lumber, down to shiny and smooth boards. Now I need a portable table saw to cut up all this lumber to build the shed (even ripped some 2x12�s into 2x4�s); and a good circular saw for the smaller and quicker cuts.

Hey, I like this; I think I will add onto the new screened-in deck with some open decking, and some cabinets and shelves in the garage. Right, more lumber scrounging and buying. You know, I need a heavy duty drill for all these deck screws. Home Depot is watching for me now.

Hey, this is fun. The wood smells good, it�s time consuming, challenging and expensive just like a hobby is supposed to be so I think I will convert a room of the basement into a workshop. Got to have a lathe for the artistic endeavors of making pens, bowls and goblets. Wait, many experienced woodworkers say I need a bandsaw. Got it and use it. Then the drill press; this is when Home Depot�s stock started soaring! Gotta have a router, then had to build the super deluxe Norm Abrams router table. Where can I put this belt sander? If I put the scroll saw on a mobile base, it can fit over there.

Exotic wood � Wow, that�s pretty stuff, I�ll take it. Books and magazine subscriptions, have to read how to do it right and get new ideas. Clubs, meetings, how-to cd�s, seminars, shows; been there doing them. And then the gadgets start their march to my door. I know now that UPS delivers to my door at 2:26 pm. I hope this never stops! I need more electricity! Now what did I get this dovetail jig for?

Charles

Anyone have the Kehoe Dovetail Jig? *LINK*

Bart Goldberg

>Looks to be a very useful jig for making very strong but decorative dovetail splines. Does anyone have it and if so, how do you like it.

Thanks

Bart

P.S. remove the 2 to mail me


Kehoe Jig