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CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

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Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#26

Re: As my dentist once said...

David Weaver

I wonder how many of the people in this thread haven't experienced a decent edge.

I doubt there are too many people involved in this discussion who haven't experienced a sharp edge. I would bet that a large % of the people here have sharpened a straight razor and shaved with it.

Might be a more common issue on sawmill creek or woodnet where there's a lot of "I have a project, which single plane can I get that will allow me to do all of it" kind of question.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#27

Different worlds,different approaches

Bob Hackett

I`m not saying that what anyone is using is wrong,what I`m saying is that there are options. Larry is absolutely correct with his statement that there is no "magic bullet" steel out there.I just feel that statement should include ALL steels and those who insist you don`t need anything other than O1 would admit that it is not the "magic bullet" either.

If you are interested in finding a steel that can better meet real world requirements over a wider spectrum than what O1 and water hardening steel or even A2 are offering then take a look at what knife makers are currently using.A knife is an edged hand tool that people are willing to bet their lives on.

Look at the test required to become a Master Bladesmith.You must make the knife you take the test with and then run it thru what amounts to a torture test for the edge.Your edge speaks for you and in the end if your edge fails then you fail.How many folks attempt that test using O1?

I mention this because it seems like comparing a knife to a chisel is far closer to comparing apples to apples (like comparing a Macintosh to a Cortland) than comparing a plane iron to a metal working bit.

How can increasing your knowledge about the metal in tools you use and learning to make your own tools from the materials that offer the best qualities for the work you intend to do be considered "nonsense" by any person with an inquiring mind?

I think Bill and a few others here have debunked all the myths about "high tech" steels being difficult to cut,hard to sharpen and incapable of being honed to as fine an edge as any other steel out there.

For me the only advantage O1 holds over these "high tech" steels is that it`s cheaper for me to buy. One of the reasons it`s so cheap is because most of what I use I buy as scrap.HSS in it`s many forms has pretty much replaced it as far as industrial applications so I am now able to buy high quality Starrett (and it`s equivalent) O1 that is ground flat still in the wrapper for less than the cost of non-ferrous scrap when I buy by the pound.

I use the O1 I have mostly for making things for other people because that`s what they want.When I make tools for myself I most often reach for some form of "high tech" steel because I know I can cut anything from a tree root to a piece of stone with the right material from that group.All I have to do is match the material to the job to get the results I require.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#28

that is the problem

Bill Tindall

Performance depends not only on the metal but as much on the details of heat treating. Hence, finding the best metal for a task becomes too involved to be practical for the novice home tool maker- too many variables to be tested. This is one reason I quit the quest.

BTW, We found that 3V is so tough that it could be hardened more than what is optimum for toughness. Indeed the knife makes came to this same conclusion. Max hardness may be about right for chisels.

The cost of M4 and more difficulty of fabrication will be impediments to wide acceptance of this alloy.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#29

David Barnett

Bring on the Novocaine! A brief missive.

David Barnett

"I thought everyone knew chrome vanadium makes for lousy cutting edges though."

Everyone except for Sal Glesser, founder and president of Spyderco, Tony Marfione of Microtech Small Arms Research, Ernest Emerson, Bill Harsey, Jr., of Gerber and Chris Reeve Knives, Phil Wilson, Paul Bos, Tom Mayo, Jerry Hossom, Phil Wilson, and Bailey Bradshaw, just to name a few.

Take CPM's S90V, for example. This so-called supersteel has a whopping 14.00% chromium and an equally whopping 9.00% vanadium, compared to A2's 5.25% chromium and 0.25% vanadium. What you have is a highly-enhanced corrosion-resistant version of 3V (hence the 'S') -- a luxury tool steel, as Spyderco describes it. Do we need a corrosion-resistant plane blade or chisel? Maybe not, but it isn't a bad thing, is it? Ron Hock's sermon on tool steel begins:

"The three qualities that most effect the selection of a steel for a hand-tool application are edge-holding, sharpenability, and corrosion-resistance. For metallurgical reasons, you can only have two of the three."

Well now, believe it or not, you can have all three. At once. Include a fourth condition, though*: cheap -- and you're back to "pick any three." So while it's true it may cost you half again as much or more than an O1 or A2 blade, the price is steadily, if not slowly, coming down. Does everyone need it? Of course not.

It's cutting-edge (mea culpa), but a handful of forward-thinking craftspersons who stand to realize significant gains by upgrading to 3V and M4 steels (with 10V, 15V, S30V, S60V, and S90V perhaps to follow) are, in fact, making, commissioning and exploring tools made from them. It's inevitable. And mark my words, the ineluctable juggernaut of tool steel evolution will not be much slowed by naysaying nabobs throwing themselves beneath its crushing wheels. Larry, you won't even be a speed bump. :)

For Ellis, who asked "...I'm all for learning some of the subtler joys that we seem to be talking about here. What am I missing?"

A retired fly rod builder who for decades crafted superb bamboo rods for one of the last New England companies to still offer bamboo rods in addition to their broad line of high-end graphite rods. He just had two blades made in 3V for his 60 1/2 and 9 1/2 Lie-Nielsens with the rod builder's grooves. He's used Hock's O1 and later the A2 blades in his vintage planes, then the LN A2 blades that came with those. So far, he's delighted. Does he need them? No way. He just makes a few rods a year now. But curiosity is a strong force and he wanted to know what he might've been missing. And now he knows.

Okay, someone would stop and interrupt me here (if not sooner) with "Whoa, Sparky! You said sharpenability!" Yes, I did. And this is where... (wait for it)... diamond comes in. Diamond makes it entirely doable. Fast, easy, cheap. And remember, you can sharpen any blade with diamond.

Whereas it's been argued here many times that earlier tool steels evolved to fit the sharpening technologies available at the time, it's quite the reverse with hypermodern tool steels. Instead of dumbing down steels to accomodate the Belgian, Turkish, and Arkansas stones nature gave users of ancient through Industrial Age tool steel production in the West, the steels of today have yet to overtake the ability of diamond to expediently sharpen them. No need to hold them back, to hamper or hobble them. Let 3V be 3V, M4 be M4, and so forth. Make and choose the best steel for the tool and the task, and diamond will make it viable.

It might seem logical to argue against these harder steels as being too hard if only Arkansas, India, Japanese natural and man-made stones existed, but as diamond, a fast, easily-acquired, reasonably-priced and provably superior cutting technology does exist, the ground drops out from beneath such feeble and specious arguments.

As Bob has pointed out, knifemakers and bladesmiths ever seek improvements in their materials selections, and while your product is understandably less-appropriately matched to powder technology supersteels, if for no other reason than historical authenticity, others who may choose them for their tools do not, in my opinion, deserve derision. And don't think for a moment that I hold myself innocent of such attitudes and behavior. I've been as intolerant as anyone and more ascerbic than I should've been, and for that, I apologize.

No doubt no LN, LV, Hock, Gramercy or even an OST (n�e C&W) plane iron is going to decide life and death as might a tactical blade -- still, there's much to be learned from bladesmiths, knife manufacturers and the edge tool industry. But face it, no serious bladesmith is going to equate the newer (and yes, perhaps improved) steels with the old water and oil quenched steels when it comes to sharpness, edge holding, and structural toughness.

The granularity of these new powder steels can be as fine and finer than even the most simple, un-doped steels of yesteryear, and the cutting edge produced has parity with its granularity. I defy anyone to achieve a sharper edge -- something I would not have said or believed even ten years ago. Yes, I too was ignorant of the edges achievable in properly-treated chrome-vanadium tool steels.

Furthermore, the edge-holding ability of these Cr-V steels exceeds the previous testing standard of "ATS 34/154CM at HRC 60/61 or D2 at HRC 61". You're just not going to get that with O1 or cryo-A2. Not going to happen. And with a few quick passes on a 600-grit medium diamond stone, then directly to 14,000 grit diamond on cast iron, you're good to go again, too. And it's surprisingly close, at least in my experience, to that pleasant buttery sharpening experience you get with the older, softer water-quenched HRC 56-58 steels on Arkansas stones.

So, while O1 and other more-traditional steels may be good enough for OST and other plane irons, what's wrong with using A2? Nothing, you say? Okay, then what's the harm in migrating to the newer HS steels, especially the particle-based steels? Not one single thing. Unless you're using the wrong stones, of course. Bloody luxury! C'mon, you high-end toolmakers'd go bust without the tool-craving Bourgeoisie! "Ford and the world Fords with you. Rolls, and you Rolls alone."

Be fair. Who buys an OST coffin smoother just because they need a decent plane to knock the splinters off the pantry shelf? OST planes fill an elite niche, and for good reason. Would you be a living treasure (congratulations, by the way) if they didn't? Choosing an OST plane is arguably no less fetishistic than choosing any other beautifully crafted and elegantly functional tool.

I seem to recall you went through some cycles of trial and error and successive refinement. So why is it "nonsense" when others strive for discovery, innovation and hand tool improvement? Would you really begrudge and pooh-pooh inquiry beyond your own? Surely not. That would be dismissive and churlish. And certainly you wouldn't expect others to stop searching just because you did, would you? So why does it so tweak your nerve?

And do you really believe anyone's interested in "magic-bullet exotic steels" because they (we) lack "basic sharpening skills"? And this: "I believe there is a problem in promoting these steels the way I see it being done." And "I think holding out a difficult to sharpen, magic-bullet steel with 'long lasting edges' as a solution to a lack of basic sharpening skills just leads to failure."

Who exactly is promoting these steels in this way -- for this reason? I haven't seen it. Not once. Never. Can you give an example? As far as I know, hand tools made from these steels aren't widely available -- are not easily-acquired products. This just seems inconceivable to me. Just... odd.

No-one's suggesting the rank tyro, the wide-eyed hand tool newbie run right out and commission a set of M4 chisels before learning basic sharpening skills, and no-one's suggesting that even old hands set their tried-and-true Swan's, Witherby's, Buck Bros., aside for 3V or 10V. I'm not giving up mine. By the way, most of my modern bench plane blades are O1 and I'm not likely to replace them with HSS anytime soon (most of my HSS hand tool use is for materials other than wood). But, like Bob said, it's an option. It's nice to have options.

As for people who enjoy exploring and experimenting with newer materials and technologies, whether or not they have commercial skin in the game, it hardly means they're less serious, less talented, less accomplished, less insightful, less devoted to their craft, or any less deserving of respect than those who do. Sharing insights, ideas, observations, experiences, and yes, even speculations are what Wood Central is all about, as I see it, anyway.

I, for one, welcome novelty, whether crudely conceived or stunningly recherche. And I, for one, eagerly await what Derek discovers through his newest chisels, which I'm pretty sure will make a characteristically well-thought-out, well-written and provocative contribution. But then, I see Derek Cohen, Bill Tindall, Phil Smith, Steve Elliot and others as pioneers -- not iconoclasts assailing the ramparts of orthodoxy. As Bob put it "different worlds, different approaches." Yeah, we all get prickly now and then because we do take it seriously, but it's all fun, right?

What started out as a tenuous apples-and-oranges effort to equate HSS machine tool bit geometries to woodworking blades, Bob, with his highly apt knife riposte (mea culpa), narrowed and sharpened (iterum, mea culpa) to apples-and-apples. Really, I think you'd have to admit that knives and chisels are more akin than plane irons and blocky metal-lathe tool bits. Anyway, it works for me. How'd you like them apples?

_____________________________________________

*Or a fifth: easy heat treat? "Pick any four." And so on.

**For comparisons of tool steels used for hand tool woodworking, these two sites are well worth exploring:

http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/bladetest.html

http://bladetest.infillplane.com/index.html

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#30

Re: Bring on the Novocaine! A brief missive.

Andrew F in Australia

Hi David,

I was there at the start too. I believe I was one of the first to raise this availability of the M2 irons that Brent and Steve looked in to, kicking off the current debate.

Here's some data points/facts on the various steels for what it's worth.

When working old-growth Eucalypt, the Stanley irons last 6 feet of planing length, the Record Cr-V irons lasted about 18 feet and M2 irons lasted several hundred feet.

Planing one 2m length of timber, then having to stop and resharpen, was impetus for my change.

I use M2 plane irons solely on Eucalypt, but have 20 student jack planes, 4 smoothers and 50 Marples chisels at work with 01/Cr-V irons on Eucalypt - takes about 40-60 minutes to grind, hone and reset 10 planes or 25 chisels when you know how. (I use a 10" grinder with a grey wheel at full speed, no mucking around with slow speed or wet wheels and dress frequently.)

M2's a bear to grind - takes a fair bit more time but, with a well dressed wheel (white's better than grey, but either's fine,) it takes a couple of minutes to grind off what would take ten seconds or so on an O1 blade.

I'm a degree metallurgist/materials engineer. The chromium forms carbides that provide metal hardness, while the vanadium provides precipitation hardening in steel (dispersion hardening through vanadium carbide precipitation) in the same way that aircraft aluminium is hardened by precipitation of Aluminium-Copper-Magnesium intermetallics

There's nothing wrong with the O1 or Cr-V steels, but they don't work so well on anything with embedded silica.

The critical thing that I believe you need to consider is the fineness of the carbide dispersion, as coarse carbides, unsupported, are brittle. Powder Metallurgy is the way to reliably and easily get this at a high carbon level, as you rightly point out.

I've given advice to several plane and blade manufacturers when asked for. It's not a problem for me, and I don't take sides.

Cheers,

Andrew F

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#31

David Barnett

Hi, Andrew! (and a couple things I left out above)

David Barnett

Yes, I absolutely do remember you as a progenitor, and far more recently, in the WC archives -- http://tinyurl.com/47k8uh6 -- and elsewhere. I really should've mentioned you, but limited myself to more recent WC posters. Great to have you check in!

"There's nothing wrong with the O1 or Cr-V steels, but they don't work so well on anything with embedded silica."

I agree. In fact, I have a great fondness for O1 and prefer it for many woodworking and even some metalworking uses. It's cheap, ubiquitous, easily-worked, very forgiving in everything from forging to heat treat, and is the workhorse of so many hand tool woodworkers, count me among them.

The old Cr-V steels, not so much, although I used them in the my Primus for years. I'll say here, because I didn't say it in my last post, that I completely understand where Larry's coming from on the Marples Blue Chips and the Record blades. I immediately replaced my Record LA block plane blade with a Hock in the mid-'90s (the Primus Cr-V was a harder, better blade).

Perhaps I failed to make a clear distinction between the usual Cr-V suspects and the powder Cr-V steels. What I probably should've said is that the 'S'-series CPM offerings have come a long way from those earlier Cr-V alloys, but I couldn't say everything, although I'm sure there are those who'll contend I tried. :)

While I'm thinking about it, I should also make another distinction -- I do realize that M2 and other HSS hand tools are on the market; HNT Gordon, Innovator HSS insert chisels, and many others. But I was speaking more specifically to what Larry apparently calls exotics, as he puts it (the CPM powder steels, I'm supposing), which I wouldn't imagine includes older standbys such as M2. If he does consider and was talking about vanilla HSS for hand tools as exotic, then I'm at a loss.

Lately, HSS hand tools have entered the mainstream and become an accepted standard, perhaps more so in Europe than in the USA, however. DICK GmbH carries a lot of HSS tools these days, including the Herdim luthier knives, and also hard, tough Chinese HSS chisels with truly useful blade shapes that I like a lot. Cheap, too.

Even so, although I see these tools being touted for their edge-holding, I still don't believe they're marketed as "magic-bullet steel with 'long lasting edges' as a solution to a lack of basic sharpening skills", an exaggeration of which I wish I could disabuse Larry.

"I've given advice to several plane and blade manufacturers when asked for. It's not a problem for me, and I don't take sides."

Yours is a sound and sane position. I'm admittedly partisan, although not an indiscriminate eschewer of older steels and ways of working for anything new that comes along. And while facts may speak for themselves, all very good for metallurgists such as yourself, I'll be damned if I'll let that happen on my watch. Obviously.

"When working old-growth Eucalypt, the Stanley irons last 6 feet of planing length, the Record Cr-V irons lasted about 18 feet and M2 irons lasted several hundred feet."

When you're planing sand with wood in it, that pretty much says it all.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#32

Re: Hi, Andrew! How do they make ...

George in not so snowy Lowell, Mich.

the powder for the CPM steels???

Work safe,

George

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#33

David Barnett

Here ya go, George. *LINK*

David Barnett

The Wikipedia link below gives a general introduction, and Crucible Industries used to tell about their process (maybe I'm just missing it as I quickly scanned their website), but it's worth going there to check out their line of HSS, starting with M2.

http://www.crucibleservice.com/


Powder metallurgy

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#34

Re:Thanks David, now I know....

George in not so snowy Lowell, Mich.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#35

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Did you have any difficulty with M4 otherwise, cost, sharpening, sourcing?

Hi Tom

My apologies for the late reply. Just back from three days in Bali .... no emails ... no internet ... no telephones ...


OK, I know it looks like any other beach, but this one was across from the hotel. I will post a little of the woodworking I saw there.

With regards the M4, it came from John Payne, whom I see has written a piece here. Sharpening was straight forward enough on diamond paste. Just 10 and .5 micron old-based paste off eBay. Nothing special. Cheap. I have really only just started working with it so it is too early to report anything really substantial. The edges are sharp, as sharp as anything else I use. I am impressed with the plane blade, which is in a #604. It has soldiered on and on working Jarrah (which has a high level of silica) .. when other blades would have needed re-sharpening. However I have not yet quantified this. Similarly, the chisel shaves end grain Tasmanian Oak - after chopping mortices - and leaves behind a shiny surface.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#36

realize significant gains???

Larry Williams

You say "...forward-thinking craftspersons who stand to realize significant gains by upgrading to 3V and M4 steels..." Really? What would those gains be? I do a lot of hand tool work and, in a six-day week, I'd be shocked if I spend half an hour sharpening the tools I work with as long as sharpening floats isn't included. Maybe someone like Andrew who has no choice about woods has a different take but we an incredible array of commercial timbers from which to choose. I don't know about dealing with the silica in Australian woods or even the silica in bamboo. I do know that the same Chinese bamboo that's used in fly rods is the source of silica for the nutritional supplement/vitamin industry.

High speed steel isn't all that new, it's been commercially available for a century. It was adopted by the metal working industry quickly but wasn't used in woodworking hand tools. Oh, BTW, tool steel is pretty old and the availability of the abrasives to sharpen it changed over time. The steel didn't evolve around the abrasives, if anything, it's the other way around.

BTW #2, the test of a master blade smith has almost nothing to do with hand plane irons. I don't think I've ever read of anyone here suggesting pounding their plane iron edge into a bolt. I have seen a number of discussions about whether it better protects a plane's iron to put a plane down on its sole or its side. Apples and apples? I don't think so.

I'm sure abrasive manufacturers and knife makers are giddy with glee over the prospect of new products and markets. You might want to talk to Don Naples the developer of the LapSharp sharpening system. While diamond films are available that would work on his machine, he doesn't recommend them. Diamonds are relatively slow cutting and they break down quickly. They're also expensive if you want to do more than minor maintenance. A grinding wheel for our diamond grinder runs $160 vs. $7 for our regular grinders.

There are readily available abrasives that cut regular tool steel faster than diamonds. These are less expensive, easier to use and don�t require searching out and preparing special substrates. I don�t see a reason to look to diamonds to sharpen regular woodworking tools.

We use M-42, M-2, C-2, C-5, C-6, O-1, W-1 and all kinds of abrasives in our shop. We try to use what ever is appropriate. We don't use the equivalent of Rolex watches in our shop. As Joel once told me, "No one buys a Rolex to tell time."

From Shop Smith to Fesstool and from honing guides to laser attachments for hand saws tool manufacturers have been offering the promise of buying one�s way out of learning a few simple skills. None of this stuff is rocket science, it�s all pretty easy to learn. More expensive doesn�t necessarily mean better or more efficient. When we�re out doing workshops I see some of those who buy into things like D-2 plane irons. Invariably they are those who haven�t learned basic sharpening or have a sharpening system that�s so cumbersome they can�t manage it.

I�m waiting for someone to make a hand scraped, platinum bodied plane infilled with the heart wood of the last surviving example of some wood species and inlaid with the bones of the last known surviving example of some animal and with a ceramic iron. It�ll be a really expensive piece of mantle jewelry for someone who gathers woodworking trophies.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#37

Re: realize significant gains???

David Weaver

high speed steels may have been around a while, but how long have the following two things existed?

* cheap closely graded diamonds, and

* powder metals

Looking at the profile of 3V, it appears to be superior for chisels and plane blades to anything W1, O1 or A2. It's much much tougher and much more wear resistant.

Diamonds are only slow on a worn out diamond hone. They are extremely fast on a plate, and not expensive - at all. It would be difficult to use $20 worth of them in a year for someone hobbying around with hand tools only for 5-10 hours a week - especially with 3V. (100 carats of diamond powder can be had for $30 shipped on ebay - as coarse as you want to go and as fine as you want to go. the type of stuff you mention - like laps and specialized tooling - not required to use diamonds to sharpen or lap hand tools).

I'm not probably ever going to be in the market for any of this stuff, I have what I need, but if it were 5 years from now and I were getting started, I would probably get or make chisels in 3V.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#38

Re: realize significant gains???

wilbur

For me, the issue is not whether powdered metal technology is better than, say, O-1 steel or old laminated 18th-19th century tools in terms of edge retention. That's data, and powdered metal wins. For me, the issue is whether this is a useful or needed thing to have in terms of woodworking.

I had the good fortune to see a couple of talks by Peter Follansbee at the NWA meeting over the weekend. For those who might not know, Peter Follansbee's thing is making furniture in the 17th century New England style. This means working with red and white oak almost exclusively, including carving a lot of oak. I asked him about his chisels and edge retention. None of his chisels are made with CPM steel or the more exotic alloys. He has never felt that he needed chisels that held their edge longer. And again, he works in a lot of oak.

Now, if you work primarily in rosewoods or jarrah, you might have different needs. But it seems to me that using CPM steels for working with North American species because the edge retention will lead to increased productivity is trying to solve a problem that doesn't really exist.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#39

Cr-V question, then...

Bruce, a MN Galoot

So, what is to distinguish between tools simply marked Cr-V? E.g., I once had a set of Freud chisels that were marked thusly, and they didn't hold an edge particularly well.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#40

Re: realize significant gains???

Dean J in MN

I agree Wilbur.

I think we'd (North American woodworkers using standard woods) see more gain if we revisited chisel design. Let's go back to nice thin square side tools rather than thick shortish bevel edge chisels. I made a set of thin O1 chisels and have found them very useful. Long blades, yet very light and nimble in hand. We shot for ~1/16" thick at the start of the bevel -- on the 2" wide chisel! Nothing new here, just what we saw in the data from the Law chisels in the Seaton chest.

I've not found the O1 to be an issue. I can chop out a case side worth of DTs and still have a usable edge. After which a 30 second touch up on oilstones is a welcome break anyway.

My 2d anyway.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#41

BTW #2

Bob Hackett

Larry,if you`ll re-read my post as I was the one who brought up the Master Bladesmith`s test you`ll see that the comparison was between knives and chisels and not plane irons.

Comparing a knife to a chisel is far closer than many of the comparisons you have made in the past. I thought it was more applicable to woodworking than any other widely accepted test we have explored so far.

I have to agree with you on the point that comparing a knife to a plane iron is far from "apples to apples" and that is why I stressed chisels.Knives and plane irons work in different manners even when used on the same material.

To be honest Larry my prime concern with most of the discussions where the two of us have been involved has been with keeping an open mind and objectively considering the other person`s point of view. I feel civility is key to keeping an open,honest and objective discussion alive.One of the first indicators that someone has stopped objectively discussing a topic and switched instead to defending their ego/opinion is when civility drops off and disparaging remarks begin.

Many times I feel like civility is tossed to the side too quickly when speaking with you and a select few here. I`d like to hear your suggestions on how we can turn that sort of thing around.I think everyone here can benefit if we can come to an understanding on this.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#42

Re: Cr-V question, then...

Dan Donaldson

I wonder if that was for Chrome-vanadium? Depending on the percentages, it might not be very good blade steel.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#43

Re: realize significant gains???

David Weaver

Most of us aren't doing work like Peter does. He does most of his roughing with green wood, and finishes planing with wood that he calls dry, but is likely not nearly as dry and harsh as kiln dried white oak would be. Thomas MacDonald had a much different take on white oak with standard carving tools - something along the lines of "it's murder on the edges, you'll be doing a lot of sharpening". I'd imagine his stock is kiln dried.

None of us need anything any better, but the issue for chisels and plane irons is two things:

1) how long does it hold an edge

2) how fine of an edge is it

Well, that's plane irons.

For chisels, to me, it's how low can it go without chipping, and how long does it last when it gets there.

As far as productivity goes, none of us would be working with hand tools if productivity was really an issue. Were it really an issue for larry, he would've gotten a wider jointer. For me, it's convenience and having a tool that stays sharp longer. I like that. I don't really need to worry about the opinion of a speaker or a historian about it, I like it regardless of what their value is on it, and I would imagine a lot of other folks will feel the same way.

I'd love to have some powder metal chisels and plane irons, but it's likely not going to happen because I don't need it and I already have so much stuff I should have my head examined.

I did, however, get into HSS irons because of cocobolo billets for infill planes and totes. I was using A2 irons some particularly glinty (silica filled ones that the little shiny bits in them wink at you) blanks when after literally thicknessing a square piece the size of a bailey tote about 1/8th with a jack plane, i'd have a dull iron and then with fitting full-size infill parts and trying to concentrate on getting a visually tight fit with the metal (that is, planing the billets to within a thousandth or two in all dimensions, I'd get just a few good swipes out of an A2 iron or a high carbon iron in a smoother (then to fairly dull and then just plain unable to use), and on the second one, just ordered a muji to finish the work. I finished the fitting work on that plane and the last one (a panel smoother) with two sharpenings.

I guess that describes that it's not that important, I could've muddled through the planes with the old irons, lots of people have in the past. Relief current and future was just $50 away, though. Finding more good dry 4" thick properly oriented cocobolo has proven to be a bit of a challenge.

I think 3V chisels will get to a point they're not that expensive. Once they do, there's really no reason for someone who isn't a beginner to not buy them unless you don't like they style they come in.

We've all lusted over the ability of the better japanese chisels to hold an edge with little chipout and great wear resistance. I don't know why we'd moan and groan about the quality of cheap white #2 chisels (which usually do much better than vintage western chisels for edge holding and get just as sharp) and then say cheap O1 and plainer steels that are hardened in the mid 50s are all we'd ever need, and the rest of this stuff is a waste of time. The reasoning just doesn't make a lot of sense.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#44

Re: realize significant gains???

Bob Hackett

David,you bring up an excellent point about being stuck if you don`t like a particular style of tool.

One of the huge advantages of being able to do simple metalworking is that you never again have to settle for anything or compromise because nobody makes exactly what you`re looking for.

If you make it yourself you can make it exactly as you see fit.The shape,width,angle of the edge as well as the bevel are all up to you as well as either square or beveled edges and over all length.Once the tool is shaped you can even vary aspects of the heat treating to custom tailor the hardness and durability to some degree.

When you`re going to all the work of making a truly custom tool that will fit the way you work with no compromises in function it only makes sense to look at making it from materials that best fill your own unique requirements and come as close as you can get to giving you the qualities you desire.

Many options when it comes to the wood aspects of tool making.Why deny the fact that there are almost as many viable options when choosing the metals involved too?

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#45

Re: realize significant gains???

TomD

CPM would seem to offer great advantages, but years ago I made a small plane out of a stub of 1/2" x 1/2" chinese lathe HSS. It holds an edge really well, and it sharpens really sharp, no carbides that are holding it back. And it was really cheap. I also have Japanese chisels and planes with HSS blades dating back to around 1980, same superior performance. These all sharpen very easily without diamond, so despite the arriviste accolades, nothing is new as far as I can see. Diamond powder seems to have been around a long time, but I am a newbie on that front, and thanks to those around here who have been using it.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#46

Re: realize significant gains???

TomD

"Now, if you work primarily in rosewoods or jarrah, you might have different needs. But it seems to me that using CPM steels for working with North American species because the edge retention will lead to increased productivity is trying to solve a problem that doesn't really exist."

I agree with that, and also sorta not. I agree with you Wilbur, and Larry, that so long as the sharpening using cycle is reasonable, I don't really care. But I also don't really see the problem if edge holding were a lot longer. I do regularly spend long periods away from the shop, and normally have some sub standard sharpening kit with me, due to space concerns. If they made chisels that never needed sharpening, it would be a step forward.

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#47

Re: realize significant gains???

joel moskowitz

Larry,

I don't remember that remark, but I was probably trying to sell you a Rolex at the time.

For plane irons I happen to like A2 and D2. The reason is that when I mill wood by hand (I don't own a jointer) a carbon blade gets dull pretty quickly. Also A2 and D2 aren't that hard to sharpen.

What I don't like about exotic materials in chisels is that there is a cost in terms of loss of geometry. Tapered designs, bolsters, etc, are much harder to do and impossible to forge in those tougher alloys.

I certainly can understand the desire for exotic alloys when working with really abrasive woods.

However there is something else to consider. While I am not sure what happens with super abrasive exotic woods (no experience), using Walnut, my favorite, I know for a fact that no matter what tool I use, even a power whatever, the increase in productivity will be a fraction of what I would get by just practicing more. And since I don't make furniture for a living, even with a lot of practice I will never be able to maximize the potential of what my tools can do compared to a cabinetmaker of two centuries ago. Actually if you look at production figures by hand from then even a good power tool shop will have trouble keeping up. Practice, real training, and starting very young really boost productivity.

Thinking of it economically spending $X worth of your time training and practicing will produce more productivity increases than just about any application of the same $X for exotic steel tools.

Note: once again I repeat - if you work in abrasive exotic woods YMMV

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#48

David Barnett

"How ya gonna keep 'em down on the farm... "

David Barnett

" ...after they've seen 3V?"

"You say "...forward-thinking craftspersons who stand to realize significant gains by upgrading to 3V and M4 steels..." Really?"

Really.

"What would those gains be?"

I already gave you one, but here's another. Luthiers gain a reasonable alternative to dependence on big expensive, inelegant, noisy drum sanders to thickness and surface some pretty daunting hardwood alternatives to rapidly disappearing species previously held as the standards for classical and other non-electric guitar backs and sides.

The introduction of these big-iron solutions to smaller luthieries is, for many, an economically unfeasible and aesthetically offensive intrusion on how they prefer to perform their craft. Not to all, mind you -- for some it is the answer, and Grizzly will be only too happy to deliver one to whomever needs or wants it. But again, it's nice to have options. So while you may think and you may wish and you may say they don't need these steels, they may decide otherwise, and really Larry, who's to say they're wrong?

Are they simply succumbing to "nonsense"? Or falling for the egregious and deceptive promoters of the 'new steels' luridly luring them through their seductive siren-songs of mythical long-lasting edges, beckoning them from furtively hiding in the closets of their never-having-learned-to-properly-sharpen shame?

Don't forget, Larry, if you, or others not yourself, needed, or perhaps just wanted, no matter how foolishly to some ways of thinking, to use a few of those fabled Australian hardwoods, you (and they) could find them from numerous sources right here in the US of A, and for that matter, order them one day and get 'em the next direct from the source -- even overnight. Ain't modernity wonderful?

Which brings me back to your as-yet-to-be-substantiated contention that this not-quite-a-plethora of 3V and M4 tools not-exactly-flooding the market, and not-yet-exactly-threatening to unseat the established order of older tool steels, these exotic, as you say, powder steels being promoted as the panacea by misguided poseurs or greedily opportunistic hand tool sellers ("I'm sure abrasive manufacturers and knife makers are giddy with glee over the prospect of new products and markets."), or worse, a cabal of diamond-pushing post-modern industrialists seeking to beguile the old order with their promises of a sharpening-free Utopia. I still remain dubious. If, however, you meant:

"When we�re out doing workshops I see some of those who buy into things like D-2 plane irons. Invariably they are those who haven�t learned basic sharpening or have a sharpening system that�s so cumbersome they can�t manage it."

then I may have misunderstood, as I truly thought you were referring to the M2, M4, 3V through whatever-V powder steels are interminably emerging on the modern tool steel buffet, and will let it lie. It confuses me though, that you would have meant all high speed steels, because, as you have noted in your post, HSS has been around for a long time, so I can't quite grasp how you would believe they're common enough yet refer to them as exotic. Makes me go "hmm". D2, eh? Darn that Joel and his Gramercy blades! :)

Just today, I received a PM from one WoodCentralian who made the excellent (and for me, previously unconsidered) point that HSS blades make sharpening even easier and more foolproof for beginners, rather than the reverse, as it removes the risk of grinding away the temper. Take the hollow ground blade straight from the grinder to the diamond stone, indexing the hollow for the few strokes required at 600 grit, then to the 14,000 grit for those self-indexing strokes. Voila! No jigs, no bother, no "sharpening system that�s so cumbersome they can�t manage it." What could be faster or easier? So dies yet another specious argument against HSS presenting impediments to beginning woodworkers. The pros just keep piling up to the cons.

Of course, you won't get to do it nearly so often, if that's a drawback. I had never really thought of more-frequent sharpening breaks as a welcome feature of less durable cutting edges, as you mentioned in a previous post, but hey, I never had to work as hard as what you've described, either.

Of course, no-one who understandably covets and purchases one of your beautiful and functional planes is likely to grouse because their edges are not as long-lasting when used on jarrah, eucalptus, Tasmanian oak, and so on. The supremacy of 18th Century English wood-bodied planes remains intact. You've demonstrably proven this. You have no detractors. But again, yours is a historically-defined niche in the overall ecosystem of hand tool evolution, and no, all progress and evolution is not to the good, as you've so rightly pointed out.

I should also like to restate that I use, like, enjoy, and respect O1 as a tool steel for hand tool making and woodworking. Wilbur's question: "For me, the issue is whether this is a useful or needed thing to have in terms of woodworking.", is valid but stops short of delineating what types of woodworking; carving, architectural reproduction, period versus modern studio movement cabinetmaking, and so on, and what wood species are apt to be involved. So, in that more limited context, if you're working polite, friendly domestic or otherwise (my personal favorite is pear) hardwoods, do you need to buy HSS chisels and plane blades? No. I agree. No. But if you'd rather, why not? For a few more dollars you extend the range of what's doable, and for some, what's enjoyable. Again, where's the harm, I ask you?

In this sense, it's rather up to each craftsperson to define these needs for their own ways of working wood, within their own milieu. There will be many valid and viable paths and each should be respected as merits each's individual expression. No-one should be too put off or threatened by such diversities. The free market of ideas and ways of working will ultimately determine what craftspersons will eventually choose for their tools and materials, and examining what's best, what's sensible and what is not, and the myriad issues central and peripheral, while endlessly entertaining and entirely valid, will sort itself out in praxis.

And isn't it so totally amazing that in just a couple decades we've become so wonderfully interconnected and accelerated in learning about the staggering choices available? This is intellectual wealth beyond dreaming from where I started. For years, the Whole Earth Catalog drove my interest and understanding of technological diversity and possibilities in craft.

I guess what it comes down to in my way of seeing things is freedom versus limitation. I see technological novelty as freeing, increasing choices, extending possibilities and opportunities for doing things in new ways with new materials. Why should anyone wish or need to limit exploring such innovations?

And don't think I'm advocating for each and every new thing that comes along. Certainly not! A vast graveyard of the economically, artistically and aesthetically unviable corpses will be left behind in the wake of that grimmest reaper, Natural Selection. Even so, freedom means we each get to choose, so the good enough will ever remain good enough for those who decide it's good enough for them. But to decide what good enough for others is folly.

"High speed steel isn't all that new, it's been commercially available for a century. It was adopted by the metal working industry quickly but wasn't used in woodworking hand tools."

Not until the advent of cheap diamond, as David Weaver quickly pointed out.

"Oh, BTW, tool steel is pretty old and the availability of the abrasives to sharpen it changed over time. The steel didn't evolve around the abrasives, if anything, it's the other way around."

But who would manufacture a steel that couldn't be sharpened? You're right, though, both tool steel and HSS have been around and HSS has been fully grindable for its original intended machine tool use for a long while. What drives its crossover use for hand tools nowadays, though? Waterstones and diamond, and more available hardwood species than ever before.

And no, I didn't mean to imply that these tools were ever developed for such a piddly market segment such as hand tools. Again, who would manufacture and market an edge steel that can't be sharpened, Larry? Yes, my rhetoric, as you are right to point out, was poorly applied. Mea culpa.

One thing, though, I need to reiterate that I'm distinguishing (rather inartfully, perhaps) between older, vanilla HSS used for hand tools, and the newer powder steels, and within the latter, between the 3V and M4 types and their less-used 'S' counterparts, the high-percentage Cr-V powder steels. I apologize for any confusion deriving from my lack of clarity and specificity.

"We use M-42, M-2, C-2, C-5, C-6, O-1, W-1 and all kinds of abrasives in our shop. We try to use what ever is appropriate."

You make my point, exactly. It makes perfect sense to use the minimum that's necessary to get the job done. And that does the job for you, as you've intelligently and appropriately determined. You've found your "good enough". You'll have to admit, though, that what's good enough for you might not be good enough for everyone else.

I should further acknowledge that David Weaver said it better and more succinctly in his post. His cocobolo anecdote effectively argues for migrating to newer, more versatile steels:

"I'd get just a few good swipes out of an A2 iron or a high carbon iron in a smoother (then to fairly dull and then just plain unable to use), and on the second one, just ordered a muji to finish the work. I finished the fitting work on that plane and the last one (a panel smoother) with two sharpenings."

Again, another right-here-at-home example of "significant gains".

Oh, and there's his mention of Thomas MacDonald's "...it's murder on the edges, you'll be doing a lot of sharpening". Is that three or four? I've lost count.

And further, David offers:

"I think 3V chisels will get to a point they're not that expensive. Once they do, there's really no reason for someone who isn't a beginner to not buy them unless you don't like they style they come in."

...which hardly seems irrational.

So while I may have done little to extend what I'm arguing beyond his personal experience and choices, when has that ever stopped me?

I guess the overarching question that remains to me, after "where's the harm?", the one that puzzles me and presumably others -- the one I can no longer avoid, is "what's it to ya?" Is it costing you money? I hope not. Does it complicate what you wish others to believe or to use? Or does it simply offend your hand tool sensibilities? Which, by the way, I consider an entirely valid sentiment, moreso than thinking it's just damned wrongheaded to try or accept these newfangled monstrosities. And while that's not something I necessarily intellectually respect, I can accept it as an attitude I've had practice dealing with.

Perhaps you altruistically and laudibly strive to spare the unwary and gullible from wasting their time and money on what you genuinely believe are worthless products and unpromising paths. I'd still fervently disagree with your conclusions but at least it would make sense to me.

One beneficial thing that comes from such examinations of differences is that I've learned new things, both on this thread and in email, and am gratified to see how many are exploring these newer steels, which I can only see as positive for woodworking and future discussions on WC Hand Tools.

And as I can recognize that I've yet again been somewhat prolix, I'll wait to respond to your remarks on diamond films for sharpening steel hand tool blades.

"Apple and apples? I don't think so."

I still think so, but I'll compromise: tomatoes and tomatoes. Same question, though: "How'd you like them 'maters?"

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#49

"All your base are belong to us"

anotherBob

...or was that "You will be assimilated"... :)

Seriously, I'm very thankful that we have options that were not available/practical just a few years back. Also thankful for all of the time/effort folks have put into this journey...

One thing that strikes me is what Larry sees in this vs how I would at this point. I never considered grinding profiles in 3V or what have you... only diamond embedded cast iron plate honing. Also have not read (could easily have missed, didn't search) anything from Larry about testing diamond paste on cast iron for honing, only grinding and the cost of the wheel.

[EDIT] I couldn't find the video just now, but remember watching one taken at the Gerber blade factory. In it they were grinding (again, I can't remember what exacty) some newer powder steel and they commented that they had to resurface the grinding wheel after every other knife. That could get expensive...

On another note... anyone ever hear of Talonite? http://www.knifeart.com/talbychucbyb.html sounds like some really slick stuff, might make a fine plane iron?...

Re: CPM 3V vs. CPM M4 ?

#50

Re: "How ya gonna keep 'em down on the farm... "

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

I think I'll just wait until Derek has a chance to test those three new steel chisels; and I sure hope he'll compare them to his new Koyamaichi shinogi white steel chisels.

I also have one other question: After one hack saws and otherwise shapes CPM-3V, does one need to apply extreme heat for hardening? (For example, in making O1 or W1 chisels, one heats the steel, shapes it, quenches it, then tempers it, typically in a 350� oven.) Or, does one go straight from shaping to heat treating, typically somewhere else? Or, what is the process?

Pam

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