Re: You still don't get it.
Greg Sloop, Portland Oregon
>I certainly do get it.
You may not work the same as me, or anyone else.
However, in your case, the situation is a draw at best.
In mine, where I often use bevels higher than 50 degrees, as well as 37 and 50, it clearly is superior.
Again, clearing a jammed mouth. Perhaps you never do this. Again it's a draw. I DO, so it's clearly not.
So, if we add up all the draws and all the cases where LABU excels, in my working conditions, it simply blows the others away.
Even TLN says...
"The single most useful tool is a low angle block plane. We have several, and any of them would be used every day in the shop. Next, I would consider our Low Angle Jack Plane. It is a very versatile tool, and in many peoples hands it can double as a smoothing plane. I t is also a unique tool with no other equivalent. With those two tools you can do a lot of work. Third, I might like a dedicated Smoothing Plane."
Finally, let me quote Lyn
(From here: http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/handtools.pl?noframes;read=77907)
-Quote-
"I agree bevel up planes may be good for new plane-users."
Let me answer this on a personal level. If tomorrow my shop burned down and all my planes were lost (hey, it has happened once before), the first four planes I would buy are the L-N LA Adjustable Mouth Block Plane (which of course is a BU plane) and the L-V BU family of Smoother, Jack and Jointer.
-Quote-
So, a guy who's had or used extensivly most every high end plane imaginable, both bevel up and bevel down. And he says, of all the bench planes available out there, he'd pick THREE bevel up varieties first?
Sure, you're welcome to yours. I have no problem with it. I'm sure TLN will be busy for a bazillion years producing bevel down stuff for those convinced that they perform better, and are worth the extra cost and hassle of using - and that's all well and good.
But you haven't come up with a single case where the Bevel Down is better. You simply keep coming up with reasons why, for you, the differences are equal.
For the fellow at the root of this thread however, the differences are likely to be huge and without a doubt to me, the BU versions will "blow everything else away."
I have no problem continuing to say it, cause it's true.
Obviously we simply have to agree to disagree, but IMO, you've not put up a single reason that these reasonings we've talked about don't apply to the guy who started this thread.
* He isn't going to free-hand sharpen.
* If he wants to do tough grain stuff, then the handplane is probably the only way it'll get done, cause sandpaper simply isn't going to cut it on 3/16"+ deep tear-out from the lunchbox planer. Neither will sandpaper or the card scraper - at least not in any reasonable time. So having the ability to go above 50 degrees is probably a requirement. Doing this with back-bevels isn't going to be quick or easy - at least compared to bevel up.
*End grain. Well, the higher the angle, the more force. More force equals more tear out when the end-grain isn't supported.
*Clearing the mouth when using it mostly closed is a whole lot easier in any bevel up vs. bevel down.
*Since it's the only plane, going from hogging off material to the final few swipes is just a second or two from start to finish. Clearly the advantage is bevel up.
I could go on, but I won't...
Have a nice day.
Cheers,
Greg