coring big bowls

Re: coring big bowls

jorge

Peter,

Yes I have that, but I prefer to core with a tailstock on after a big chunk dismounted.

Re: coring big bowls

Peter Hyde

Going back to my original reply you need a big chuck and jaws and use dovetail jaws not serrated ones. Turn the tenon to the right diameter for the jaws to grip as a perfect circle and make sure there is a flat shoulder for the face of the jaws to sit against. If you are still uncertain then use a 8" faceplate with lots of screws. Use #12 sheet metal pan heads and allow 1" of screw to go into the wood.

I always approach big turnings with a lot of caution. Keep tools sharp, adjust lathe speed to a minimum and feed tools slowly and smoothly into the wood.

I found with some precise positioning there is enough length on the extension to accommodate a shop built riser under the tail stock, but the handle of the McNaughton then hits the hand wheel on the tail stock so it has to be removed during the coring process.

Always pause and check tightness of chuck/face plate/ tail stock frequently.

Even without the tail stock at anything less than 500rpm the piece will only drop to the floor if it lets go as there is not enough inertia to propel it across the shop. If you are standing at the end of the lathe then you are out of the firing line and in a safe zone.

Re: coring big bowls

jorge

Peter:

"If you are standing at the end of the lathe then you are out of the firing line and in a safe zone. "

I am in a tiny provisional shop and and cannot stand facing it so I am in the line of fire and the one that dismounted was a 200 pounds chunk of Norway maple, held by the Oneway chuck, the tenon broke and I barely managed to get out of the way luckily