Plastic Overlays

Re: Plastic Overlays

Joe Fleming

Doug,

Frisket is often used for masking and transferring images. I buy it at Dick Blick.

https://www.dickblick.com/categories/friskets/#frisketfilms

They also sell liquid frisket, but I don't use it.

Joe

Re: Plastic Overlays

john lucas

I use the frisket but for some projects I just cut through thin plastic to produce a template or pattern than I can spray through. The advantage of the Frisket is it leaves a very crisp line because it's stuck to the wood. The templates are taped down and if the wood is slightly curved will not lay perfectly flat. They do sell stretchable frisket for shooting on curved pieces. I've seen that in catalogs for painting motorcycle parts.

I have just started playing with spray or brush on frisket but had terrible results with the early products I tried. I just purchased a new product but have not had a chance to use it yet. My problem with the brush on Frisket so far has been getting it back off. Since you brush it on, let it dry, cut out your mask and then remove the mask, this is kind of important. I'll let you know once I get a chance to play with the new stuff.

Re: Plastic Overlays

Doug Dubowski

Thanks, I will certainly look it up. For some reason I had Grafix on my mind, which I am sure I saw here on Woodcentral.

Thanks for the input and information.

Doug

Re: Plastic Overlays

Doug Dubowski

Just realized that Grafix is a trade name for frisket. Came across a "Grafix rubber eraser" that was supposed to be "Great for removing liquid frisket, rubber cement, and more for a variety of techniques." It looks like crepe rubber used to clean sand paper. Never tried it, but thought you should be aware.

Doug

Re: Plastic Overlays

Donna Banfield

There's also this material.

https://www.treelineusa.com/self-adhesive-stencil-film.html

Stick and burn overlays

david

For those who don't draw well, you can transfer an image on to a plastic sheet with an adhesive backing. This material will not support combustion, so is great for transferring images for use with a woodturner. One option for a laser printer, and another for an ink-jet printer. As I recall, the image may come off if the film is bent back on itself, but forget which type (laser or ink-jet) this happens to. The flat film may have to be cut radially to get around sharp curves but generally works great.

https://welburngourdfarm.com/products/stick-n-burn-design-transfer-sheets-ink-jet-printer-5-pack

Re: Stick and burn overlays

Joe Fleming

I would avoid Stick and Burn. Wellburn is near me and I have the 50 sheet pack that I bought the last time I was there. I have used it extensively for making airbrush masks. The problem with it is that if you do not cut it perfectly through the film AND adhesive, when trying to lift the material from the piece, the adhesive layer will separate from the film and you will have a mess to clean up. And once it is torn, you cannot lay it back down for remasking.

Except that I spent a wad on it, I would quit using it today. It is tempting to use because you can inkjet print on it for transfer stenciling. It works great if you burn your pattern onto the wood because the heat burns through both film and adhesive.

Steve Sinner uses a liquid frisket, but peeling that stuff is a little difficult too.

Joe