Removing Cured Watco Danish Oil

Re: Removing Cured Watco Danish Oil

Cyril Griesbach

Peter,

I prefer the use of Stop Loss Bags https://www.stoplossbags.com/

If you use your finish quickly enough to keep it from jelling then you may be just fine. Stop Loss recommends the use of "solvent" to clean the bag when empty but they don't specify the "solvent"

Re: Removing Cured Watco Danish Oil

Ken Vaughan

Watco does not list its formula, but it is likely similar to homebrew mixes of varnish, oil, and solvent. Once cured, the varnish/oil has polymerized into a soft varnish finish.

I have cleaned the cured accumulation with commercial brush cleaners; the kind sold for removal of hardened gummy finishes in brush bristles. Also useful is the drain cleaner sold at the Dollar store (lye). If you use lye, eye and skin protection from lye solutions is absolutely needed. Lye solution will dissolve natural bristles, but would not be an issue with a plastic bottle.

Re: Removing Cured Watco Danish Oil

Don Stephan

Is the thin layer of cured Danish oil causing a problem with continued use of the bottle? If it is cured, squeezing the bottle may cause the finish to buckle, allowing one to ease the point of an awl or similar tool under it to lift the finish off.

Re: Removing Cured Watco Danish Oil

david

You have to overcome the bond created in the stopper threads from the solidified Watco finish. If hand twisting will not do, perhaps a pair of pliers will do the job. Better not have this occur in the first place by applying grease to the threads after each use and before putting the cap back on. This, however, has not been a long term solution. I have now resorted to using small empty paint cans to store my decanted finishes, thinking that the pry off lids will work better than removing a screw off cap. Will still fill up to the rim with water to minimize the amount of oxygen above the finish and under the lid. Jury is still out on this method.

$8.75 for a 6 pack

GaryG in MD

I don't like to waste things either, but, hey, if they're done, they're throw aways!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0735DY17W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Honestly, my time is worth much more than bothering about such things. YMMV. :-)

No offense intended. ...GG

Re: Removing Cured Watco Danish Oil

Joe Bradshaw

I just cut a piece from a plastic bag and screw the lid down over the plastic. This works well for me.

Joe

Re: $8.75 for a 6 pack

John K Jordan

>>>I don't like to waste things either, but, hey, if they're done, they're throw aways! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0735DY17W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Honestly, my time is worth much more than bothering about such things. YMMV. :-)

Interesting you should mention that. I'm sure my time isn't worth much but I hate messing with bottles that go bad.

Last week I bought this pack of 10 bottles for replacing bottles when they go bad and to have extra for mineral spirits, naptha, water, alcohol, etc. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756MHXDP They are heavy plastic, unlike some others I've bought, but are a bit too big for what I want for "danish" oil. I'm ordering those you mentioned in to 8 oz size to try.

If I know I'm not going to use the oil for a while I unscrew the lid and displace the air with inert gas. I do that with all my cans of finishes every time before closing them up. Things last a lot longer that way.

JKJ

I use the 8-oz too

GaryG in MD

Actually, I've been using the 8-oz version for many years and love them.

I just got the smaller ones on a whim -- to store the half-used 8's without so much air.

I think you'll like them.

And you can "squeeze" both sizes to a certain extent to expel some air. The tops will stop the air from going back in. ...GG

I've got to try this!

GaryG in MD

Sounds like a great idea -- simple and effective. ...GG