Tool sets I recommend

good choices, John

GaryG in MD

I can remember that one of my first "big" questions when I joined my first woodturning club was "what is the (minimum) set of tools that I absolutely have to have to get a good start in general turning. That was 16 years ago, and tools have changed since then, but I started with a pair of 5/8" (American) bowl gouges (one ground at about 75º and one ground at about 40º, a 3/8" spindle gouge, a 3/4" SRG, a heavy-duty 1-1/2" round-nose scraper (which I have now ground to a negative rake), a 3/16" parting/beading tool, a 1/16" parting tool, and a 1" skew. There's not much you can't make with those. How many tools do I have now? Hey, he who dies with the most tools wins. I may not win (certainly not with you around), but it doesn't stop me from trying. But for beginners, that's a very good start.

And, yes (!), I'm a huge fan of Doug Thompson's and Mike Hunter's tools and have many of both and now could not turn without them. I have to admit that one of my "go to" tools is the black-handle Elsworth Signature 5/8" (American) bowl gouge. My shortest tool, and you know what that means, is the Henry Taylor 3/8" spindle gouge. THAT is clearly my GO TO tool, first, if it is close to what I need for the cut. And my first choice is always to cut, not scrape, although a well-done shear scrape is a very important cut. I find myself more and more comfortable for subtle clean up with the negative-rake bowl scraper (left side cut quite long) � la Stuart Batty, although mine is made by Rudy Lopez from a Doug Thompson skew blank. ...GG

One more choice

john lucas

IN my haste to put together the tool recommendations I forgot one. The clewes tool will do bowls and platters from roughing to finishing cuts as well as steep sided bowls. You can't use it as a bevel rubbing tool like you can the #5 and Osprey but if you take light cuts for the last few passes it will leave a very good sandable finish. It would be very hard to get a catch with this tool and virtyually no learning curve. Just stick it in the wood and go.

Re: Tool sets I recommend

Joe Fleming

The top photo is the set I recommend too. Except the Jordan scraper. I consider it more of a luxury tool.

Before John started marketing his own scraper, he had a homemade version that use used in demos. So I made one for myself.

Re: Tool sets I recommend

john lucas

Joe I used a regular flat scraper for many years. After getting John's I recommend it because it is so much better. It's double ended with a the opposite angle on the other end of the blade. It just flat cuts great and is easy to establish a new burr.

Re: Tool sets I recommend

Joe Fleming

I ground both ends too. One to the left and one to the right. Interchangeable - just like the master - but not as pretty.

Which side up for JJ scraper?

david

I keep forgetting which side should be up. Bevel up or bevel down? Perhaps I keep forgetting is because I don't use the tool enough--am usually satisfied with shear scraping with the gouge in a closed position for the outside and with a teardrop scraper on the inside of my bowls.

Re: Which side up for JJ scraper?

john lucas

I call it short point up or bevel down. In other words the sharp point should be on top. I think it just holds a burr better than my straight HSS scraper. I also like that the edge is so long. I start the cut in the middle of the blade and if I take light cuts I can get away with going above the middle and certainly below the middle. This gives me a lot longer usage between establishing a new burr. The total length of the edge is almost twice what my flat scraper is. Yours may vary of course.