Suggestion on finishing a maple bowl?

it depends on what you wish to achieve

GaryG in MD

I prefer an oil/varnish blend (such as a so-called "Danish oil", or make your own) for highlighting the figure in "curly" woods, but the price you pay is yellowing. If you wish to keep the color lighter, then you won't do as good a job of highlighting the figure. I've been in this conundrum with maple and gone both ways. My attempts to keep the color light by using lacquer or water-based poly were, IMO, not successful because the figure did not stand out as it does with an oil-based finish. I have decided that for me it's better to use the blend, because that figure "needs" to be emphasized, and accept the yellowing. I personally avoid oils like BLO that yellow very badly and moreso with time. Some oils, such as 100% pure tung oil, do not yellow as badly, at first, or with time. Beware a so-called "tung oil finish". They are probably BLO with a varnish, and many probably have no tung oil in them at all. ...GG

+, what will it be used for?

Dick Coers

Will it see any moisture? How about popcorn? I like a thinned solvent based poly if it's going to see food. Danish oil is too thin for my liking. Also consider that your sanding has to be perfect when you use a finish that pops the grain. It also pops sanding scratches and tear out. Not that I can see any in the photo, just saying.

Re: Suggestion on finishing a maple bowl?

Julian

Everyone will have a different idea. Mine; apply some dark dye and then sand again. Then clear shellac sealer. Then I would apply several coats of water based polyurethane. When fully dried; wet sand to ~1200 grit, polish, and finally 3 to 4 coats of good carnuba wax.

Re: Suggestion on finishing a maple bowl?

Hal Taylor

Julian, sounds like your method would be a nice result. Do you have a picture to share?

Re: Suggestion on finishing a maple bowl?

mikeee12345

Shellac is easy to repair later on, oil finishes can also be applied later on to

bring the finish back to freshly renewed. A friction polish is also easy to repair

or renew later on. Really depends on what you intend to use the bowl for and

the quality and type of finish desired.

Re: Suggestion on finishing a maple bowl?

Karl_TN

I normally turn away the bad spots and then make my decision on the shape. This bowl was from a maple tree that was heading for the dump so it's not costing me anything but my time. In other words, I don't have anything specific in mind for this bowl except to have fun and try a finishing technique that I haven't done before (which is most). Sometimes unplanned pieces turn out so nice enough that I just don't want to mess up on the finish

I find it really enjoyable to turn when there's nothing specific in mind. This way the wood can be whatever it wants to be. Still I'm not an artist so I'm always asking my wife for her opinion on the odd shapes before the walls get to thin to reshape them. I suppose doing commissioned work would bring in more money for buying more tools, but then it'd probably take some of the fun away too.

For example, below is a cherry platter that I recently completed back in December. I cut out some bad spots about mid way in my large bowl blank which left a solid middle section. This gave me an idea to make a platter instead with a center section to hold items like cheese squares or nuts, or use a glass bowl for wet items like dips & salsas. I wasn't sure if this shape would dry without cracking but it did.

Re: +, what will it be used for?

Karl_TN

It's still quite green so it turned pretty easy without a lot a tear out. I'm sure once it has dried out and warped then tear out will become an issue.

Also, there a large knot on one side that I'm worried about cracking. I don't know if boiling this piece would help any or just mess up figure. Look near the rim on the pic below:

Re: Suggestion on finishing a maple bowl?

Julian

This pieces was finished with shellac sealer and 10 coats of water based poly, then wet sanded, polished, and 3 coats of automotive wax. Gives it a glass smooth finish.

Curious why 3 coats of wax?

Dick Coers

Seems like overkill.

Re: Curious why 3 coats of wax?

Julian

I like to build a thicker layer of wax for added protection.

solvent melt in?

Dick Coers

Doesn't the second coat melt the first, and then the third melt the first and second? I've always understood it's like lacquer, you can put on as many as you want, but you get one.

Re: solvent melt in?

Julian

I can see a distinct difference between the 3 coats of wax. It works for me.

Re: solvent melt in?

gbalock

And Carnauba melts near body temperature. That is why I use microcrystalline wax. It has a higher melting point.

Sam Maloof, when he was actively

david

making his iconic furniture, told my brother that he applied 3 coats of his 3-part (BLO, beeswax & thinner(?)) finish and stopped there because he felt that after three coats, the resulting finish had diminishing returns with additional application.

Re: solvent melt in?

John C Lucas

I think Carnauba has a high melting point but i would have to look it up. My shop.is quite warm in the summer and some waxes turn to slush. The carnauba bar does not.. .

179 degree F

Chocolete melts in your hand, Carnuba....

Barry Irby

Won't even melt in your mouth.

Re: Chocolete melts in your hand, Carnuba....

George Balock

Yep, you're right. I don't know where I read that, it might have been on the microcrystalline wax description, but they were wrong too.