Poweder metal or stone for voids

Re: Poweder metal or stone for voids

John K Jordan

I've used this guy's product and instructions:

http://www.sokolowskistudios.com/NewFiles/misupply.htm

CA glue. Results varied. You might do a search, there are threads that discuss this on WoodCentral and on sawmill creek (and probably elsewhere).

I am not yet totally satisfied but I have some ideas to try. The things I've done so far haven't looked too bad - others like them, maybe I'm too picky. When comparing mine to pictures from the expert his didn't look perfect either.

This pretty-poor-photo pic shows a thin powdered brass ring in the goblet. I can't get a better picture because I sent these to Italy. The brass finials and feet on the little box I turned from solid brass.

I personally have never been a fan of inlaying stone. I have sometimes filled cracks with sawdust and CA, sometimes bark and CA. If I want to hide the crack I do it in layers and vary the material so it blends with the figure and doesn't look like plastic wood from the hardware store. This has worked very well on some - no one can see the repair. I know others

disagree with this and prefer to make the crack stand out.

JKJ

Re: Poweder metal or stone for voids

Dave Paine

A topic worthy of starting a bar fight.

Like so many topics in a hobby, there are many different preferences.

My experiences.

a) I use CA for thin cracks where I am trying to make the wood more stable to prevent tearout and where I am not intended to add tint or substances with the CA. Be aware CA is brittle compared to epoxy.

b) I use epoxy for thicker cracks where I want the strength of epoxy to hold the wood together. I often colour the epoxy.

c) If you add anything to epoxy it is best to do a test to confirm that the substance will not impact the curing time of the epoxy.

d) Some tints/pigment do not mix easily with the epoxy. I use Smooth-On resins and the Smooth-On tints which disperse well. I tried oil based paint with the Smooth-On resins and they do not disperse, and so will settle out while the epoxy cures.

e) I have used oil based paint with System Three resin which dispersed easily.

f) Stone and metal will tend to settle as the epoxy cures. If I recall another thread some weeks/months ago touched on the subject with brass and the poster mentioned allowing the brass to settle, pouring off the top and using the settled brass/epoxy. This may be more viscous so may not get into smaller cracks.

g) The folks at my turning club who use stone add the stone to the cracks then apply the CA on top of the stone. They may use several applications to get the crack filled.

Re: Poweder metal or stone for voids

Joe Fleming

If you are doing stone, make sure the wood is dry and you need to finish all sides to inhibit movement. I did a few pieces with crushed stone 15 years ago and they moved ever so subtly. The stone inlay is firm, but slightly proud of the recess. I used CA glue back then.

Today, I usually fill with epoxy that has been colored with a little dry TransFast dye or a few drops of TransTint dye.

Mostly, if there is a void, I just leave it as a feature and avoid filling all together.

Joe

Re: Poweder metal or stone for voids

david

Have used CA glue mixed with sawdust or shavings for years and have never had a call back. Sometimes the match is hardly visible; sometimes not. On a crack with a gap less than 1/8", I usually install a butterfly patch to bridge the crack. The patches are like added value to the piece. Have filled voids up to 1-1/2" wide. Recently used CA and shavings to fill a network of carpenter bee tunnelings on a hollow form. Bores the size of marbles. The wood was a burl and the shavings with CA sort of blended in except some of the holes were round. The irregular voids looked better.

All Thanks for the help and quick response

coffee grounds works well too

I prefer Inlace or Inlace chuncks. *LINK*

john lucas

I like Inlace products. I use some of their powders, dust, and nuggets as well as the Inlace itself. I have used metal which works well but you have to sand it to 1200 or more to get the metal look, otherwise it just looks dull. Stone is good but often too hard to turn so you have to power sand it flush. The Inlace nuggets are plastic so they cut and sand really easily. The premixed Inlace is very easy to use. I love the Lacey with Cherry wood. Really stands out.

You can get many of them from Woodcraft but Turtlefeathers carries most as well as other fun products.


https://www.turtlefeathers.net/

Re: I prefer Inlace or Inlace chuncks.

Dave Paine

I forgot to mention the In-Lace products.

I like the turquoise.

Just be aware that if the In-Lace cures with any bubbles, you cannot fill the holes as they appear when turning with CA glue. The In-Lace poly ester resin or the MEK hardener will prevent the CA from curing, at least my local turning friend and I have experienced this issue.

Re: I prefer Inlace or Inlace chuncks.

Dick Hines

I use turquoise chips and power I get from Woodturners catalog. I don't like inlace. It looks kind of fake to me. Just my feeling.

I put the stones in one at a time with tweezers. Then flood them with thin CA. If shoot a couple of coats of lacquer on the piece before you use the CA it will not stain the wood. After the the CA dries I will sand them and will add more chips if needed then sand again. If all the large holes are filled I will flood the area with med thin CA and rub turquoise dust in the little holes with my finger. Use a rubber glove unless you want to have a turquoise finger.

Then sand the bowl.

Re: I prefer Inlace or Inlace chuncks.

cranskin

I started out using the prepared Inlace and didn't like the end result that much. I still use their powders and granules,but mix with West System epoxy with the clear hardener. I also use powdered metals with the epoxy. JMHO Lynn

Re: I prefer Inlace or Inlace chuncks.

john lucas

I never had a problem patching air bubbles with CA over Inlace other than it doesn't quite match and leaves a tiny circle. Not noticeable by most people but is by me.

I do like West Systems epoxy and will sometimes use Casting Resins instead of either if I want a really clear base.

Re: Poweder metal or stone for voids

Justin Stephen

Suggest you look at some of the great work and info over on Stephen Hatcher's website pertaining to using stone. Certain ones work well, certain ones do not. He has some informative documents on the topic.

http://stephenhatcher.com/