A David Weaver Chisel

Regarding handle thickness

Wiley Horne

Bill’s photo has a scale. Using that scale, I make the handle of David’s chisel to be maybe 1-1/8” diam at the thickest, and 1” diam at a point one-quarter of the way up the handle from the ferrule.

I compared with a few of my own here—Funahiro 12mm and 36mm slicks, and a Tasai 6mm mortise chisel. The 6mm Tasai and 12mm Funahiro have diameters just under 1”; the 36mm Funahiro has a handle diameter just under 1-1/16”:

I don’t have a small hand at all, and those Japanese chisels seem fine to me. And Bill’s is a bit larger once you get any distance at all above the ferrule. The shape is a matter of individual preference of course.

Suggest measuring the diameter of chisel handles you like, and compare with Bill’s at 1” to 1-1/8” [from my rough scaling off his photo].

Wiley….also, I’m informed Bill’s handle is rosewood, if there is a question of density.

Chisel handles and ergonomics

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Carpel tunnel?

I agree, William.

I love the look of the Marples Boxwood chisel. Aesthetically, they have a balance. They are even nice to hold in the hand. However, the shape that I prefer, that suits me, is the Veritas, which has a position to push with a thumb and palm.

I am not keen on fancy turnings on chisel handles. Even the much-loved London Pattern style I avoid (except as handles for screwdrivers).

It is similar to some handles for dovetail saws. There seems to have been a fashion - taken to an extreme at times - for placing a "bump" that is intended to mould into the palm ...

... but all it does is dig into the soft part of the palm. So I rasp it smaller ..

What I like about the Veritas handle is that it has a soft flow (like the Marples), but has sufficient thickness to grasp without exerting too much force (unlike the Marples, which is slim and demands being held more tightly = fatigue). And there is a position for the thumb to rest.

One cannot fail to mention Blue Spruce chisels. They may be criticised for the use of A2 steel (this has not bothered me), however the blades are slim (creating a lightness and agility), and their handles look sublime. Using them alongside the Veritas shows (again for me) my preference for the Veritas in that the BS are a touch shorter.

A comparison with the Stanley/LN is interesting ...

The Stanley is too short for my liking (may suit another) ..

I had a set of #750 Stanleys, and replaced the handles with something similar to the Veritas (before Veritas made theirs - which says why I like them) ...

If I owned LN, I would want to use them differently from the Veritas. Probably more like a Japanese chisel ...

Japanese oire nomi are designed to be used with a gennou. The tap .. tap creates much control of downforce. These handles are not designed to be pushed, as one might a Western bench chisel (a better all rounder).

Oire Nomi (I made these handles, partly to get a bunch of individuals to match as a set, but also because I wanted them a little thicker than standard) ...

Instead, one would use a long-handled slick for paring ...

Here, the grip is from the end of the handle.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Speculative and incorrect

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I am in the midst of dovetailing a full sized case so my experience with chisels is not theoretical. I will have a discussion about chisel handles coming soon. This chisel is such a delight to pare with that I search it out when the need arises and use it even when the blade width is not optimum.

Everyone note the grip on the LV

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

See how Derek is holding the LV chisel for paring. I will soon compare how one naturally grasps the Weaver chisel for this task. Fundamentally different, and perhaps better or worse for the individual. I need to finish dovetailing the case today. Be back later with a discussion of chisel handles and how they get used, by those using them in practice.

One cannot disagree with your claim....

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Every customer is different and has different preferences

However, nobody shops for a chisel handle. How many discussions have we had here about every detail of chisels except the handle?

They shop for a chisel among a small number of choices and the handle is what the manufacturer decides it to be. And the customer lives with the handle they get, maybe not here in this microscopic speck of the woodworking universe, but in general.

I can't believe much thought went into the ergonomics of many modern handles. Narex takes the prize for worst ergonomics. I'll bet LV is the only modern company that devoted a minute to deciding what handle to put on a chisel based on ergonomic data.

Re: Everyone note the grip on the LV

Warren in Lancaster, PA

People who actually use chisels use different grips for different situations. For example, we use a different grip for paring tenons than for chopping dovetails.

Re: Wil Neptune chisels

Charlie

Look like Buck Bros of a big box store vintage.

Paring reach

Wiley Horne

Doesn’t the taper on that handle provide relief? So that if you’re paring on a flat surface you have longer reach than if the handle flared toward the ferrule?

Japanese slicks have their blades angled a bit relative to the handle to provide this kind of relief. The tapered handle appears to achieve the same effect.

Wiley

Re: Wil Neptune chisels

Bruce, a MN Galoot

Looks more like the Stanley no. 60’s my dad used..

Re: Paring reach

Charlie

Or use a cranked-neck parer.

A sage Weaver quote

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

(the handle)" it's so good at each thing that the effort to grab another chisel isn't worth it. "

And if one is doing more than diddling at woodworking the work flow of this situation gets the job done with little fuss. Dovetailing the case I have 3 chisels on the bench- large for pin faces, small for small places and base lines and skew for when the pesky half blind whisker in the corner refuses to shear. I would be delighted to be able to get by with one, but that is not practical for the way I do half blinds.

I can understand that some delight in having the perfect tool for a task. Personally, I'm all for multitaskers.

I have observed that when people from professional shops come to demo they bring very few tools to do a broad number of tasks.

Re: A sage Weaver quote

Wiley Horne

So true. For work rhythm, the one that’s already in your hand is it.

Related thought: Which is your favorite chisel? The one you reach for in the moment without giving it any thought—that’s the one. Sounds like David’s chisel is that one!

Wiley

Re: A sage Weaver quote

Charlie

I don't own a cranked-neck parer, but I can certainly see where it would be handy at times. Seems like all the major British manufacturers made them. Somebody was buying them. Gouges too.

Re: A sage Weaver quote

Charlie

To be clear -- I have six bench chisels that I regularly use, one of which is a long parer that David made. The other five are Marples Blue Chips. I haven't bothered to make a cabinet for them, or a presentation box either. They live in the tool well for the most part. Speaking of reaching, or not reaching, for something -- I have Marples boxwood handled mortise chisels that I don't even bother with anymore. I just use bench chisels when my elbow isn't hurting, otherwise I drill and pare.

Re: A sage Weaver quote

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Related thought: Which is your favorite chisel? The one you reach for in the moment without giving it any thought—that’s the one. Sounds like David’s chisel is that one!

Not that simple. The answer depends on where in dovetailing a case I am at. More later. BTW the steel is holding up outstanding. David feared it could be too hard and hence lack sufficient toughness. For looks on the show side this case piece has some rock hard near know grain inconveniently located near pins. I was not easy on the chisel nor reluctant to pry a recalcitrant chip from its mooring's. Barely detectable occasional micro chips visible at 10X after doing one case side.

Re: Everyone note the grip on the LV

onemanband

Absolutely. Sometimes the whole handle in the palm with the thumb on the top when we do vertical parings. Even with the chin helping where needed.

Elsewhere, Bill thought the Narex handles are badly designed. I do know a big fellow who liked the fatter handles because they filled his grip. It goes to show that the grip thing is as personal as any handle design. On the whole, I'm indifferent to the handles other than that I don't have any very long handled ones, except one cranked chisel. Maybe when I get much older and develop all kinds of wrist issues, my take would be different.

Re: Everyone note the grip on the LV

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Was the "big fellow" enamored with the comfy hooped end?

Re: Wil Neptune chisels

Charlie

I think you're right.

Re: A David Weaver Chisel

Philip F Duffy

COME ON BACK, DAVID!! WE ALL NEED YOU. PHILIP

^^^^^ What he said!

And Ideal for framing houses!

Hooped ends

Jack Dover

The hooped end serves a particular purpose. Narex re-interpreted a traditional German pattern chisel, very creatively I may add. Germans use steel hammers on chisels, therefore they're hooped, just like Japanese chisels.

Re: Everyone note the grip on the LV

Charlie

Plenty of Sheffield-made chisels had double-hooped ends.

Re: Everyone note the grip on the LV

Charlie

Double-hooped handles I should have said...

Re: And Ideal for framing houses!

Charlie

Yep.

Steel caps will ruin a wooden mallet though. I don't care for them at the bench and I don't like the sound of a steel hammer on a steel cap chisel inside a workshop.