Router.

Re: Router.

Joe shelton

My next one will be the Milwaukee cordless router. I'm taken with the Milwaukee 20 volt tools, and that router is going to fit my door hardware kit very well.

Corded routers are often excellent - I've had good results with Bosch, Dewalt and Hitachi.

Lee Valley router accessories are terrific.

Re: Router.

Orlando in So. Fl.

These are what I've owned for many years and have been outstanding:

Fixed base - PC 690, PC 893, DW 618 (which comes with the DW 6182 plunge base if you buy the DW 618PK)

Dedicated router table and heavy duty fixed base - Milwaukee 5625-20

Plungers - DW 621, DW 625

Compact - DW 611, Bosch Colt PR20

Re: Router.

markas

I was looking at the PC 690 and the local lowes has the DWModel #DW618PKB Those you both listed are great routers...hard to decide.

Re: Router.

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Any recomendations for a good solid router? Plunge, fixed, or double duty. I need to do some template routing with guides. The routing project for now requires an OD 3/8 guide bushing. Thanks for any recomendations.

Markas, it is not as much the router that is so relevant, but how this is processed.

The focus for template routing could be via a router table. Most good 1/2" routers with 2+ h.p. will do the job.

My router table uses a 25 year old Elu router, which today is sold as the DeWalt DW625. Very solid and very dependable.

This is too large for handheld work, and the DeWalt version of my midsize Elu is the DeWalt DW621, which has some of the best dust control in my experience.

Increasingly, there is a move to smaller, battery-powered routers. The Makita 18v trim router is one of the more powerful versions available. It comes with a range of accessories, which include fixed- and plunge bases. Built in LED and excellent dust control.

Regards from Perth

Derek

what is important to me

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

What router is best could be guided by what you do with it. For me ease of doing fine depth adjustments, a good "feel" in the hand and visibility of the bit are most critical. I free hand route hinge mortises, dovetail waste and similar operations and the above attributes are critical for these jobs.

For edge routing a router with good balance/feel is important. If there are stores nearby you should go and actually handle the router if you can.

Re: Router.

Bruce, a MN Galoot

Plunge router. I’ve had one router, Makita 3612, a plunge router, for nearly 40 years. It does everything.

Re: Router.

Bruce McCrory

I have a Craftsman from nearly forty years ago. It's no fun, heavy, tried to take off body parts a few times and successful twice, and screams worse than a cat in heat. None of my tools are battery operated. I doubt that feature was available in the early eighties. If they were, I could give you a blowby on last years dead model.

Strap that bad boy to a table and go on.

Re: Router.

Orlando in So. Fl.

The PC 690 I have is around 15 years old. Today's version is not as good as the ones before. According to FWW PC is no longer going to be making routers so I would stay away from the PC690 and focus on Dewalt, Bosch 1617EVSPK, Milwaukee, Makita, etc.

Also, as Bill says, buy them for what you plan on doing. I would recommend a fixed base and plunge as separate items or get the PKs that have the fixed base and plunge base included. If you plan on using it on a router table, then I would go with a bigger HP router..

https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/no-more-porter-cable-routers#:~:text=Porter%20Cable%20is%20no%20longer,you%20can%20even%20find%20one.

I like my DeWalts

Steve Elliott

Your term "good solid router" immediately brought my DeWalt 625 to mind. It's designed to be used in a router table and is somewhat awkward to use hand-held, but it runs smoothly and has less shaft runout than any other router I've used. That produces a smoother surface on the wood and the first time I used it my expectations for what a good router can do went up a couple of notches.

The DeWalt collets are very precisely made and are designed to have a 2-step loosening function. At first the collet nut becomes loose but the bit is still held tight, then by loosening the collet nut more the collet is pried apart and the bit is released.

I also have a couple of DeWalt 618 routers, which are lighter weight and have more shaft runout but are still very good. I have both fixed and plunge bases and prefer the fixed bases unless I need the plunge action.

The DW618 will take guide bushings but I don't think the DW625 will (not sure and the router isn't at hand).

No financial interest in DeWalt, just a satisfied customer.

Re: I like my DeWalts

Orlando in So. Fl.

The DW625 will also use bushings since they attach to a base that is made for guide bushings. I have a couple that I got from Pat Warner.

Re: Router.

William Duffield

I have a Porter Cable 690 1-3/4 hp with fixed and plunge bases. This has worked well for me for many years. I also have a PC 7518 3-1/4 hp (motor only) mounted in a JessEm Mast-R-Lift II. I also have a DeWalt DWP611 compact router with fixed and plunge bases and dust collection attachment. These are all well-built reliable routers.

Since you are asking on the hand tool forum, I'm a bit surprised that no one has suggested one of these

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan10.htm#num71

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/1-71-ct-large-router-planes?path=handplanes&node=4063

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/router/52609-veritas-router-plane

https://www.walkemooretools.com/shop/p/product-name-5-g4dfn

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuildingaWoodenRouterPlane.html

Don't concern yourself with accidentally choosing a perhaps inappropriate forum to ask your question. The gulf between power tool users and hand tool users has drastically narrowed since the days of REC.NORM and the OldTools porch. Everyone here understands both sets of tools, even if most have a bit of a bias towards either tools with or tools without cords.

Re: Router.

markas

Great article, thanks! I already a Dewalt in my router table and it has done a good job so far so I might just opt for another.......

Re: Router.

markas

Both of my current routers are mounted under a table. I have never done much handheld routing but only a few time but has been awhile. The reason for that is because I have never been steady enough, always gouging the workpiece. All suggestions have been great.

Re: Router.

markas

One mention this being a hand tool forum. I didn't think about that before I posted. Sorry if it was OT. everyone was very helpful just like most woodworkers I know.

Re: Three Router Tips

William Duffield

For routing hand-held:

• It's almost impossible to gouge the work with a quarter round bit with a bearing;

• If the cord gets in the way, or you're afraid you will hit it with the spinning bit, plug the router in behind you and lay the cord over your shoulder;

• Build or buy an offset base plate similar to this one, keep the knob positioned over the work piece with one hand, and keep downward pressure on the knob;

Re: Rhetorical Question?

William Duffield

No need to apologize, Mark. It happens all the time. In fact, I've been meaning to ask a question to the forum members, for discussion: Do we really need two separate forums, "Messages" and "Hand Tools" any more? Might it be better to merge them?

That way, people like Derek would no longer need to double post their projects, and lots of people would no longer miss important posts, especially responses, that happen to have been posted on a forum that they haven't developed the habit to visit often.

We might want to establish the convention that a router with a forked tail be called a "routah" (offering our respect to Norm) and the funny looking thing with the L-shaped blade be called a "router plane" or a "hag's tooth."

Re: Rhetorical Question?

John in NM

I say keep them as two forums, it was set up this way for a good reason I think.

Some people have little interest in hand tools, some have little interest in power tools - forums lose traffic from some fraction of each of those groups when there is too much "noise", ie posts in which they take no interest.

Those of us who are interested in both approaches have found and participate in both forums without inconvenience.

Re: Rhetorical Question?

William Duffield

You're probably right. I have a tendency to discount how much a lot of people (and probably most people) dislike change.

Re: Rhetorical Question?

Joe shelton

Maybe. But I've seen clear change in colorful language. A hags's tooth has been adulterated to old Woman's tooth. Groan.

Re: Rhetorical Question?

John in NM

Everyone likes a change that they see as a good idea.

The trouble is that people's views on ideas are about as varied as the ideas themselves, so inevitably, everyone has grumped about a change now and then, leaving us with the idea that most people don't like change

Re: Rhetorical Question?

Warren in Lancaster, PA

There is already a disparagement of hand methods on this forum. I would not want to bring in even more people who are hostile to hand tool work.

Re: Rhetorical Question?

markas

I don't have many hand tools but that doesn't mean I dont like them. The links that William supplied had hand tools on there that I would have loved to have had all of them. Those tools are beautiful to have. I guess the biggest reason I haven't bought too many hand tools is because my FEAR of trying to resharpen the blades.

It probably doesn't hurt to have 2 forums because of each individuals love for certain tools. I love both......Mark.

Re: what is important to me

markas

What part of E. Tenn. are you from Bill?...I live in Church Hill, near Kingsport.

Re: what is important to me

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

across the river from the glass plant.