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Washita stone

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Washita stone

#1

Washita stone

Chuck Bjorgen

I found a used but decent condition Washita stone on eBay and it arrived yesterday. I got it on a buy it now transaction for $18 plus $7 shipping. It came in a box marked Brookstone. Curiously there was (still is) the same stone package with an asking price of around $250. It is marked new. I suspect the seller of my stone thought that a fissure mark on both sides of the stone, but not on the sides, suggest It is broken. It sure doesn’t seem cracked or broken in any way to me. The stone measures 2 x 6 x 1/2”, plenty of landscape for freehand sharpening. It could use some flattening on one side which seemed to get the most use. You can see the supposed fissure in the right side of the photo. I did a test sharpening on my pocket knife and the stone seems solid.

This raises some question about Washita stones in general. I’m familiar with the course, darkly mottled types. What about these lighter colored varieties. Are these the ones called “LillyWhites?”

Just how many varieties of Washitas are there?

Re: Washita stone

#2

Re: Washita stone

David Weaver

Lilywhite is a marketing term, and generally was used on the clearer stones in a given year by norton/pike. Sometimes, the no 1 washitas and the lilywhites are indistinguishable to me, and there are some cases where there are lilywhite labeled stones that have marks on them (and I don't think all of those are just labels floated off of one stone and put on another).

At one point on the ebay scene, a lilywhite stone was worth about $100 and a no 1 labeled stone about $40. Last I looked, the two are closer together in value. Lots of people asking big money for unlabeled stones, but they can ask whatever they'd like. A good clean label no 1 or lilywhite stone that's got almost no use is expenseive no matter what.

The seam in that stone isn't uncommon - they're always stable in cases where I've seen them. I've not had a labeled stone with a seam in it, but have never noticed any issues with them.

I've had washitas that have the texture of your stone (but none labeled). How can we tell that they're washitas? I guess ultimately you can't other than density and performance. If the stone is below 2.4 or so specific gravity but can sharpen a fine edge, I'd suspect it came from the pike washita mine.

Lots of modern colored and white soft arkansas stones marked washita just because they have large particles, but not the same thing. Everything we'd consider to be the same type as the vintage marked washitas came from one location (so many labels - woodworker's delight, carborundum corporation washita, mechanic's friend, a gaggle of pike/norton/behr manning labels, and different generations - sometimes with end labels differentiating hard and fine or soft and coarse). They don't look like a bunch of sand particles fused together like a coarse soft arkansas does, and the sharpening feel is always more spongy smooth (even though the stone is hard) rather than gritty. Even when it's fast, it's more of a filing feel than gritty.

Re: Washita stone

#3

Re: Washita stone

Warren in Lancaster, PA

Brookstone was a mail order company that specialized in tools in the 1970's. It was a little frustrating because they could have a Primus smoothing plane right next to a gadget screw driver. And maybe only one Primus plane, not the whole range.

Brookstone sold three or four stones in the Arkansas/Washita group. I believe they were manufactured by Smith's Whetstone, which usually stamped other firm's names on the boxes. Smith's did mostly a wholesale business in that era. I think your stone is typical of Smith's Washita.

Re: Washita stone

#4

Re: Washita stone

Chuck Bjorgen

Just for kicks I may go ahead and calculate the specific gravity of this stone. Fortunately I saved the instructions for doing so from a post here several years ago. The stone does have a Washita stamp on one side. I’m guessing Warren nailed it on it’s origins. I recall going through a Brookstone store when I was still working in Minneapolis around 30 years ago. Lots of esoteric, high-price stuff. Thanks.

Re: Washita stone

#5

Smith's Labeling *LINK*

David Weaver

I can't make any grand claims about what I know about your stone, which is sometimes a surprise because I've probably had somewhere just south of 500 sharpening stones.

BUT, I have had a case labeled soft (and see the same labeled as washitas - which are just extra coarse softs) that are definitely not washitas.

BUT more........... I also have a Smiths "Hard" that I just measured (I always suspected it was a washita stone, but the texture is ever so slightly different than most washitas). Like yours, it was inexpensive. I measure the specific gravity as 2.15 for it. I have thought about dumping it on ebay a couple of times but never put the effort in to measure its SG and examine the scratches under a microscope - which I'd need to do to stick my neck out and call it a washita stone. I like the mottled stones with the waxy look, just a preference.

There are no "hard arkansas" stones of any type in that SG range, but lots of washitas. Anything from other mines below about 2.3 tends to be really fragile (dan's sometimes sells a stone that they label washita, but it's just a really soft fragile stone, and they are up front that it's not the same thing as a pike/norton mine washita because they aren't able to take material from there).

The smiths stone that I have will cut very finely if you let it break in, and it has the washita feel - it's not fragile or anything.

Danger to anyone else reading this exchange because there are more modern smiths labeled stones that are definitely not real washitas - but who knows who owns the brand name and who knows where they get stones now.

(not sure if this link will work, but it shows the white stones that smiths labels as hard - one could think maybe mine was switched to a different box, but all of the older ones seem to look like this).


Smiths picture

Re: Washita stone

#6

Re: Washita stone

Chuck Bjorgen

My quick calculations, which I think are pretty accurate, came out to a SG of 228. That places it slightly above the desired 225 mark for a Washita. I’ll work with it a bit and see how it goes. I’ve been going with my Arkansas stones for the past couple years and am pretty happy with them.

Re: Washita stone

#7

Re: Washita stone

Rafael E. Herrera

That's very funny. I almost bought that stone.

There is a pamphlet by Pike from back in the day that I find very informative. They used Lily White to brand their "best" stones, they made a big deal of how carefully they selected them. They guaranteed them, so if the worker had any issue they would replace the stone. They also sold "Extra", "Number One", "Number Two", and "Rosy Red". Besides Lily Whites, I've only seen labeled "Number One" stones, not the others.

Rafael

https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=uc1.31175035165789&view=1up&seq=3

Re: Washita stone

#8

Re: Washita stone

David Weaver

The extra label may have existed earlier on (as did the end labeled stones where washitas were differentiated by coarseness and softness).

Rosy red washitas are a color rarity that is otherwise the same grade as lilywhite . The color is disappointingly subtle -sometimes a couple of small red dots or faint red lines. I've never seen one that looks like what you'd expect, but the prices are eye watering with a good clear label (if nobody is asleep on ebay, they can fetch two or three times as much as a lilywhite).

As far as no 1 vs. lilywhite, it may have been mostly early marketing to price points. Lilywhite in some of the older hardware catalogs were about 60-80% more than no 1 washitas (if only two were offered, those were it), and if a soft arkansas was offered as an alternative, it was usually about half the price of the no 1.

Interestingly, I just dug up a 1932 catalog listing and india and silicon carbide stones of the same size were more than any washita, even more than the lilywhite.

Re: Washita stone

#9

mind blown...

David Weaver

..I found a Monkey Wards catalog from either the late 1800s or early 1900s (closed it and forgot what year it said it was) and in their catalog, the washita stone was 40 cents for one 1 1/2 pounds, and a soft arkansas was $1.25.

The opposite of what I'd seen several years ago in a barber supply catalog (that one had hard arks, washita, coticule, escher hones, soft arks and of course a bunch of synthetics, but washita were more expensive there - slightly later time frame, but not too much as eschers were clapped out somewhere around late 1920s)

Re: Washita stone

#10

Re: Washita stone

Chuck Bjorgen

That Pike pamphlet was a fun read, Rafael. I noted that Pike was even pushing their own honing oil back in the day.

Re: Washita stone

#11

Re: Washita stone

Rafael Herrera

I looked up old price lists too David, the soft Arkansas were indeed more expensive. This catalog from 1912, for example (https://archive.org/details/LoganGreggHardwareCatNo30/page/n213/mode/1up), has a good variety.

Chuck, one interesting thing I learned from the pamphlet was to test the hardness of the stone by lightly tapping it with a hammer while holding it with two finger. My newest Washita produces a solid sound, this one is an 8x2 stone, white and uniform, maybe a Lily White or No.1, it's not labeled, I got it for a good price. My other Washitas, of odd sizes, probably older stones, mottled reddish in color, sound a little dull, they cut fast though, I'm happy with them.

Re: Washita stone

#12

Re: Washita stone

Chuck Bjorgen

Hmmm... I just went down to my shop and tested the new Washita (the eBay stone) and it gave off a nice clear ring. Another similar stone sold to me as a Washita had a rather dull clump sound. The latter is 3/4” as opposed to the 1/2” thickness of the new purchase. I have two other so-called Washitas that I’ll try the test on later.

Re: Washita stone

#13

Re: Washita stone - honing oil

David Weaver

Norton still does the same thing now - something that may be a continuous line from pike (pushing honing oil, which is just light mineral oil, but at a cost per pint that mineral oil may be per gallon). With retailer markup, etc, it ends up being kind of expensive for what it is - especially if you have an IM 313 and need to fill it (light mineral oil spec'd for commercial kitchens is great, though)

Woodworking suppliers have picked up on this well, though!

Trend snake oil:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5FMOc56880

(mix of naptha and mineral spirits - $17 for 3.4 ounces!!!).

That seems to be Trend in general in my opinion, though - $115 for a diamond plate that is manufactured in china, etc.

Re: Washita stone

#14

Re: Washita stone

David Weaver

The ring test is an interesting concept. I just tapped 6 stones. I don't think that oil ever goes into these stones deeply, despite it looking so (from having ground the edges down on older stones to get everything flat - elimination of "old" staining is gone sooner than expected.

But, I suspect the denser the stone, the higher pitched the ring. My most dense washita is about 2.5 SG, which is probably unusual, but it's a carborundum brand labeled stone that's nearly solid looking.

I haven't used it enough yet to comment on how fine it is, but a near full mottled norton labeled no 1 (an older one - pike I guess) years ago suggested that it's not that easy to tell what's what cutting power wise. That was a more dense stone, but a very strong cutter.

i'd imagine thickness of the stone may also affect the quality and the pitch of the ping.

I may be imagining things, but I've noticed the white stones (both a lilywhite labeled and a woodworker's friend stone) to settle in to slower cutting faster - two stones don't make a definitive conclusion, though.

So may variables with these, but I like nearly all of them and could have 8 and would be very happy with 7 of the 8 (the 8th usually a bit too fine and slow, but those can hone razors, too, so it wouldn't be long to resell them on ebay aiming at razor honers if that was a concern).

Usability of soft arkansas stones from various brands/mines (and range of cutting fineness) has been much less certain. Same with black stones.

Re: Washita stone

#15

Re: Washita stone - honing oil

Rafael Herrera

A few weeks ago, on another forum, there was a discussion on honing oil. Some people prefer to keep paying through their noses before admitting they were rooked.

I got a tip from some old timers in that discussion about using neatsfoot oil. I tried it and liked it, but I still prefer light mineral oil.

(The link to that video does not work, it says it's private)

Re: Washita stone

#16

Re: Washita stone

Bryan in Broad Ripple, IN

It's been many years since I posted here, but I thought I'd go ahead and chime in with my 2 cents. I posted a SG measurement formula here many years ago for helping ID stones.

I agree with most of David Weavers observations on the topic.

First, I've owned dozens (maybe 50 or so) of various Arkansas and Washitas bench stones. These are stones in the 2"x 6" to 2"x 8" range. Except for 4 of them, they were all found out in the wild from auctions, garage sales, estate sales, etc, so I know that they were all original, and were very old stones. Since I bought them in the wild, my views probably reflect a region bias as I live in the Midwest. Some were in old carved boxes, some were in original paper-board boxes, and some were just flopping around on benches or on shelves. Most were jet black and glazed over when I bought them, but a few were NOS and in pristine condition. Most were never recognizable as Arks, but looked more like a fouled and caked up Crystolon or India Stones.

I've looked extensively at old catalogs, geological reports, advertising, catalogs, etc. to try and figure out the history of these stones and I believe that I figured out a bit about them.

Originally, Pike and then Norton sold a wide variety of Novaculite stones...the Washita's and Arkansas stones that we are talking about now. Washita stone was plentiful and relatively easy to mine, and the Arkansas stone was more rare and more difficult and costly to mine. With Washita stone, they could mine huge boulder sized pieces (a ton or so) for processing. With the Arks, it was more like 50 pound pieces.

With Washita's, there was relatively little waste (50%) to get finish stones, but with Arkansas stones there was huge waste (75% to 90%) to get to the finished products. In the late 1800's, it was estimated that there was close to 800,000 lbs/year of Washita mined compared to 60,000 lbs/yr or Arkansas stone mined. This translated to 400,000 lbs or finished Washita's to 15,000 lbs of Arkansas stone per year. So, historically, Washita's were much cheaper than Arkansas stone (hard or soft) to produce and sell. Washita's were sold in quantities that were 10 to 20 times higher than Arks.

Pike/Norton sold the Washitas in many different ranges. The best range was Lily white and which was actually divided up onto a few grades...basically: Coarse/Soft, Fine/Medium Hard, and Fine/Hard. So the benefit of the early Lily Whites was that they were pre-graded and guaranteed. The other ranges of Washita were not guaranteed...you got what you got.

It's important to note that several sources discuss the variability of Washita stone and how some unscrupulous sellers would sell poor quality stone disguised as genuine Washita stone. This began to diminish the Washita stones reputation, and is probably what caused Pike to grade their stone so careful, and to guarantee the best of their line.

In terms of pricing, if you go back to the late 1800's up to the late 1930's, the Hard Arkansas stones sold for about 5x time what a top of the line Lily White sold for. A Soft Ark sold to 2 to 3 times what Lily White Sold for. I really don't think there was much demand for Soft Arks, and it doesn't even look like they were sold much before the very end of the 1890's. So historically, The Washita stones were much cheaper that the Arkansas Stones.

In 1891 an Arkansas stone (hard) was priced at $3.00 per lb and a Lily White was priced at $.0.60 per lb.

In 1899 a Hard was $3.50, a Soft was $1.70, and a Lily White was $0.60 (all per pound).

In 1913, a Hard was $5.00. a Soft was $2.50, and a Lily White was $0.75 each.

By 1934, a Hard was $8.00, a Soft was $3.20, and a Lily White was $1.60 each. Interestingly, India stones were about $1.50 to $1.75 at this time.

After WWII, information gets more spotty as the catalogs generally stopped listing prices. So it's hard to tell what happened, but By the 1950's Norton topped selling the Lily Whites but continued to sell other Washitas.

By the late 1950's Norton pretty much phased out the Washita's in favor of the (Synthetic) India and Crystolon stones.

That's what I know from documented sources. What follows is speculation:

As I said above, originally, Washita were very well respected and desirable stones. This caused to market to get hit with cheap, poor quality knock-offs that seriously hurt their reputation. I think originally there were several sources to genuine Washita stone, but as Pike grew, they consolidated the market and bought the Washita quarries until only THEY had access to genuine Washita Stone. Pike/Norton did sell their stone to other retailers that labeled them under their own brand names, though.

Generally, though, most of what's labeled today (and in the last few decades) as Washita by Bucks, Smiths, or Case, etc. is NOT the same thing as the Pike/Norton Washita stone. As David has said, it's just lower quality stone that they are calling Washita.

What happened to the Washita's and why did Norton discontinue them? It's hard to say what the actual market conditions were that cause Norton to discontinue them, but generally it seems like Norton just replaced them with their synthetic stones. They spent years developing and marketing the synthetics espousing their virtues and consistency in grit. Early on, the synthetics were more expensive than the Washita's. As time went on, they became cheaper than the Washitas. The bottom line is that the synthetic stones were easier to make, cheaper to make, and they could make whatever grit the market demanded, and were not at the mercy of nature to dictate which stones they sold. They were good stones, and you could get the grit range you were looking for pretty easily and cheaply.

Overall, It's my experience that with the older stones, the Washita far outnumber Arkansas stones. However, this may be a regional thing. Out of the 50 or so larger OLD (think 75 to 100 years or so) Novaculite bench stones I've found and restored, most were Washita's, maybe 10 were hard Arkansas (black and translucent), and only 2 were soft Arkansas. One of those softs was a labeled Norton Soft from the 1970's that actually looks and behaves more like a Washita, though.

I've own easily 2 to 3 times that number in smaller stones and slips, but most of those are Hard/Trans stones that were acquired from machinists and other higher end sources that demanded fine finishing stones. A few are labeled Soft Arkansas stones.

What I've also found is that the SG range of the Washita's range from the low 2.0's to into the 2.4 range, so there is a ton of variability. The Soft Arks are in the 2.3 range. The Hard/Trans all are in the 2.62 to 2.67 range. Most of my really old Washita's (estimated at 100+ years old) are white or light gray/tan and generally pretty uniform in color and texture. In the more recent Norton Washita stones, I started seeing much more color and variability. I have a very striking purple/red stone from the 1950's that is a very good stone to use.

Generally, the Soft Arkansas stones are exactly as David describes them: slow cutting, gnerally do not impart a fine edge, and they look like finely fused sand grains under magnification. It's also been my experience that in the OLD stone from 75 to 100+ ago, (at least in this area of the county) that Washitas are far more common than Soft Arks.

As for Arkansas stones of the last few decades and of today...I think the same thing has happened to their quality and reputation that happened to the Washita's 100+ year ago. You have a few good reputable sources like Dan's that makes an excellent product, and you have cheap knock-off's that diminish the reputation of the stone. The new Arkansas Stone that you can buy $20 are pretty poor for woodworking.

-Bryan

Re: Washita stone

#17

Re: Washita stone - honing oil

David Weaver

I may be partly responsible for the video being changed to private :| it was for trend "lapping fluid".

I left a comment on their video and published the SDS (Their SDS) of the mixture and asked why it's so expensive if it's jut a 55-60/40 mixture of mineral spirits and naptha. That may have prompted them to remove it.

As far as oils go, I like lots of stuff. I like the mineral oil, but the neatsfoot oil is tops for shoes and baseball gloves, and it seems to be the english standard (may have been something taught to apprentices over there).

Re: Washita stone

#18

Re: Washita stone

Wiley Horne

Exceptionally fine post! Should be an article, so it can be referenced.

Thank you,

Wiley

Re: Washita stone

#19

Re: Washita stone - honing oil

Rafael Herrera

It comes to $500 a gallon of this mixture, true snake oil. It's a shame what some of these companies are doing.

Re: Washita stone

#20

Re: Washita stone - honing oil

Warren in Lancaster, PA

It sounds as if you don't know what you are talking about. Mineral oil is not a pure chemical; it is a mixture of many different oils. The reason honing oil is more expensive is that it is more highly refined than other mixtures. If you cannot tell the difference, that is fine, but don't make up stories about how merchants are out to cheat people.

Re: Washita stone

#21

Re: Washita stone

David Weaver

Norton said something along the lines (through TFWW) that mining washitas is an on and off thing because there isn't consistent enough demand for them. I guess their processing is still in new england, so it's a matter of opening a mine, bringing the stuff back (and I get the sense from their catalogs that this stuff is a tiny market compared to bulk abrasives, papers, grinding wheels, etc).

I'm somewhat surprised that they keep marketing hard arks (and intermittently, they've sold black stones).

Joel said the same thing about waste with the fine stones. I asked why a 3x8x1/2 stone was $80, and a 2x8x1 was double and the answer at the time was (i'm still suspicious) that there's a lot more weight in the 2x8 stones.

what's found on the ground here is a few washitas, lots of sand stone and some local slate, and a zillion clogged up india stones and carborundum stones. I don't get out enough to see fine stones in large size, and your prices give a good indication why the hasluck carving book recommends a bench stone (like a washita) and "emery" after the bench stone. It says something (I can never be quoted, because I remember things about right, but never right) like if one has the means, a hard arkansas can also be purchased.

The interesting thing is for all of the waste that the pike mines (norton) have for hard stones, Dan's said something like as long as prices support going deeper to get material, he can continue to do so and there will be no supply issues. He can produce gorgeous 12x3x1 black and translucent stones if the wallet is willing, and I've talked to him, but never gone there. His black and trans stones are the finest cutting I've seen of either type, and someone else who went there relayed pictures (on a shaving forum) of blocks of fine stone that they were cutting. They're monstrous, and when I mentioned what Norton says about the finer stones (likely it's just a matter of their stock vs. Dan's), he said "no, they had big clear giant billets of stone that they were cutting for the fine stone", and I thought that sounded so foreign that he showed me pictures to prove me wrong.

Dan's has more full density white stones that aren't translucent than anyone I've seen, but the price doesn't tempt me on them - if his business stops, they will not be easily identified as a fine stone on an internet listing, whereas a close picture of a great quality black stone or a trans stone is easily identifiable.

I've seen the same thing with norton softs. There are some later labeled soft stones that I've seen that look like a block with pores (washita characteristic) rather than an agglomeration of fused particles. I'd figure they can label their stones however they'd like, but probably won't chance buying any (lack of need first and foremost).

My daily use washita is from your state - from a carver who worked in a factory there and was later promoted to salesman around 1915 (someone left a note folded in the top in old school cursive handwriting to make sure that the user of the stone wouldn't be forgotten). But stones on the ground here are the same. Knowing nothing of washitas, and asking my dad what he used to sharpen his hunting knife, he pulled out two stones and declared that one was too slow so as to be useless. It looked suspicious to me (brown) as a probably soft or washita. He said he'd give it to me because it was no good. We cleaned it with an old can of singer oil (what he had on hand - the oil was still transparent and good quality!!) and sharpened some kitchen knives on it and suddenly he reversed his offer to give it away. I'm sure he hasn't used it since.

Beyond that, none of my relatives ever would've spent the money for a high priced stone like a black or translucent, though all of them are hunters and sharpen older knives rather than buying new ones (they like the old 1095 type knives like the camillus marine knives - because they are easy for someone who isn't good at sharpening to get and keep sharp).

Re: Washita stone

#22

Re: Washita stone - honing oil

Rafael Herrera

If you're fine paying those prices, all power to you. I think it's absurd and a waste.

Re: Washita stone

#23

Norton's mineral oil..

David Weaver

There are tons of specifications for mineral oil. Norton's mineral oil has sort of a dry feeling (sounds like something dumb to say about mineral oil, but it does feel more dry than something like a common baby oil).

If filling something like a stone bath, you can get equivalent quality oil, though it may have more lubricating feel, the thinness and clarity and quality is there, by getting a gallon of commercial kitchen food safe light mineral oil. Mine has a CFR reference (two) on the front and mentions what its use is for.

I haven't ventured further than that (out your way, mineral oil is readily available for animal care, but there's no reason for me to believe that those oils would be as good as the thinner oil that's sold for kitchen equipment).

Norton's price is high, but I suspect that it's not entirely their doing (rather distribution and retail markup, which won't be there in bulk commercial kitchen stuff by the gallon). The need earlier on before specification and MSDS type info was available was probably to provide oil to stone users so that they wouldn't get cheap oxidizing oils mixed or labeled as sperm oil or mineral oil.

(a quick look shows norton stuff around 15 a quart. I recall seeing some at home depot for $11 for 8 ounces. Commercial kitchen supply machine light mineral oil was $14 a gallon, but I had an order for other items, so I didn't feel the sting of shipping it - that was already covered. There are many restaurant supply stores here that allow public, though - I'm sure it could be found and if it's around, more uses than an IM 313 will be found).

That said, if someone bought what I have and then used norton oil, they'd likely find much different and could draw the conclusion that it's expensive in a little can. When I got into oilstones, someone was nice enough to point me to food safe light mineral oil, but I don't remember who.

Re: Washita stone

#24

Re: Norton's mineral oil..

Warren in Lancaster, PA

I have explained this before, but it sounds as if you still have no idea what refining is or why a more highly refined oil might be more desirable for honing.

Re: Washita stone

#25

Oil chemistry

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Lots of stuff is called "oil". For the purposes of this discussion we can confine the definition to petroleum derived oil, and not synthetic oil or plant or animal oils.

Indeed petroleum is a mixture of a multitude of similar chemical compounds. Stuff derived from petroleum is done so by distillation. The petroleum is heated and what boils off is condensed to yield some product. The first off are the low molecular weight components, methane through butane. Some butane(depending on the weather) up to some boiling point, which I don't know, becomes gasoline. Next off is jet fuel, followed by diesel fuel, "oil", and finally asphalt and a solid called petroleum coke are left behind. (In fact the distillation is a continuous process, not batch like what is done in the lab, but the principles are the same. What I described is an easier way of understanding the separation.)

So, "oil" is a fraction from petroleum defined as a material with a boiling range of X degrees to Y degrees. This dark colored fraction will contain a multitude of individual chemicals of primarily three chemical classes- aliphatic, olefinic and aromatic.

This fraction can be further refined to yield specific oil products. A common refining is to remove the colored stuff so it looks better. Another common refining is to remove the olefinic and aromatic stuff because these classes of compounds "stink like oil", They will react with oxygen and light to make compounds that may stink more, become colored and /or gum up the works.

A "refined oil" will be more or less decolorized and hydrogenated to remove the olefinic and aromate components. It will be more or less colorless and have hardly any smell. There will be noting in there to react with oxygen or light to "gum up the works".

Trombone slide oil, household "mineral oil" and I presume honing oil would need to be free of the stuff that smelled bad and could gum up the works.

If there is any difference between "household mineral oil" and the best honing oil one can buy it would only be a difference in viscosity which would result from a difference in boiling point range that it was refined from.

I suppose honing oil could have some added component to do something but I doubt it. After all these natural stones worked fine, I suppose, in 1920 when refining capability was vastly less capable.

The bottom line is that baring some additive possibility there will be no "purity" difference between household mineral oil and honing oil, presuming honing oil is petroleum derived. The mineral oil will not have any component that will react on the stone to gum it up over time. Hence, "purity" is not different between them. Viscosity could be different. Given that mineral oil is as refined as oil can get, the manufacturing cost of it and honing oil will be similar, unless there is an additive to honing oil.

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