Re: Phosphoric acid - Bob Smalser?
Bob Smalser, Seabeck, WA
>One more point, as I take some gaff from the tool collectors for recommending this.
It can be done...and done well...if we are talking real user tools and not uptown collector stuff. 9+ decades of US Armories and Army gunsmiths aren't likely wrong. Been used on weapons since 1917.
The acid leaves a "parkerizing" residue in the pits that won't easily rust again like electrolyis....just the ticket for a wet climate and unheated shop/yard like mine. It also preserves the existing Japanning by killing the rusting that goes on at the edges of those chips.
If your tools live in a nicer, tool-collector's environment, then simply use electrolysis or something else.
Simply buff the metal to a shine removing the grey phosphate surface that forms.
If you are concerned about any etching, then use fine wet-or-dry paper ILO the soft wire wheel and a lighter hand with the buffing wheel.
All these steel/iron surfaces were treated with phosphoric acid as a first step after removing loose crud...followed by the soft wire wheel, buffing, and a phosphate blue applies so dense it puddles water:





