The Incredibly Versatile Sweep Brace

Re: Does Anyone Really Need...

Matti Kuikka

>Bob,

I admire sincerely your motivations and methods in preserving hands-on techniques for those following; as you can see in Adam's posts and challenge there is a serious cap in knowledge at the level you are writing for us youngsters. I myself was born in 1946 and thaught woodworking in the school with wooden planes etc. that were used in dimensioning wood. The next generation, ie. my child's, considers it ridiculous. I'm sorry that I don't have your skills to ensure the continuance of that knowledge that due to a work induced cap of decades I have also mostly lost from active memory. So I appreciate the possibilty to shamelessy copy your work and enjoy the return of lost skills.

As a serious argument I propose that the wiewpoint should be perhaps be shifted a bit. Nowadays those of us who are interested in hand tools and working with them don't have fast and dirty production as our aim if we are rational. It's more efficient to go shopping and buy shiny faultless things or make them with accurate machines from well prepared stable products. I suppose that we stubbornly share a love and respect of living wood and find our therapy or relaxation or whatever working honestly with it. I for one can't make twelve identical dining chairs with hand tools but maybe I can someday make one with at least partially selfmade tools that I'll secretly be proud of and can pass to a following generation. If I can pass at the same time a love of wood and honest woodwork that would be more than I dream of.

Living in Finland I also appreciate the possibility to climpse your traditions and reality, in other media and way than tv-soaps/news.

Matti Kuikka

Re: No problem here Bob

Mike Schlesinger in Northern Maine

>Keep up the outstanding work Bob! Your posts are some of the most informative I have seen anywhere and I look forward to reading every one. Don�t let the ratings of one person discourage you or deprive all of us of the useful information you provide.

Mike Schlesinger in Northern Maine

Re: The Incredibly Versatile Sweep Brace

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>Wonderfull as always. Thanks for posting Bob it looks like a great stool I'm sure he's happy.

Why bother

Jack Guzman from Maine

>The responses to that one bit of uninformed negativity(meaningless heckling)speak volumes about this fine community. Which reminds me,I have to get my donation in the mail.---Jack

Re: Does Anyone Really Need Frank?

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Bob

Well, I knew that I needed the article even before I read it. Sometimes I think I don't need one of your articles, but then I read it and realise that there was so much I did not know. Now I know that I don't know and will need to know. So I always read them. This is as clear as night follows day.

But that is not the point. I am very aware of the time and effort that you put into your articles. I am flabbergasted at the rudeness that was demonstrated by "frank P. Meriweather" (is there really someone by that name?). Please ignore oafs such as he, and do keep on with your really splendid writings.

Best regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Does Anyone Really Need...

Tony Z.

>I for one truly appreciate the posts by Bob. I go to the various forums for help, advice and to learn things.

Do you have a "mouse problem" that causes all threads to automatically open? Maybe some obsessive/compulsive behavior issues??

Don't feed the trolls!

Mark Harrison -- in Sydney, Australia

>Whoever this is (and you can bet he didn't use his real name) is probably about 12 to 21, male, bored and a sociopath.

Trying to block these people is nigh impossible and they have been a feature of life in the electronic communities long before the internet. Rising to the bait makes them want more.

Let's all just move on.

And Bill, as always, another outstanding contribution. Thanks.

Ditto

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>I have enjoyed reading ALL of your articles, even when I typically use an alternate method. Actually, that makes them all the more valuable. Keep up the good work.

The body of work will make a good book about traditional woodworking methods.

good point

Mike in Mystic

>

Followup Input

Bob Smalser, Seabeck, WA

>Followup:

From an electrician:

[quote] Yup. A brace is a good tool to own and use. A lot more versatile than most drills.

When I need to drill a hole down through a top plate into an interior wall, especially if it is a long and tough crawl getting there a brace would be preferred to a drill, cordless or otherwise.

A brace and sharp auger bit is lighter and handier than the drill and there are no issues with batteries going dead or the cord catching causing a return trip in an overheated attic. Also a boon on powerless job sites or where stretching a cord to drill a couple of holes is hard to justify. I can go through a double top plate in about 30 seconds and I can also feel the work which can help me avoid problems of hitting something I shouldn't of blowing out the side.

As an electrician a brace has advantages. Especially on service calls I am unlikely to need more than a hole or two and I am often drilling into unknown territory. With a large expansion bit, be sure to keep it sharp, I can often cut a 2-1/2" hole faster than the helper can get the cord strung and the angle drill out.

Where I need a lot of holes, small holes, holes in metal or I can't swing a brace, ratchet braces help but they take time, ####drill gets the nod but a brace can often do a lot of the work and do it faster and better than a drill.

Also on a crew where there is usually three drills: A big angle drive or spade handle, a lighter 3/8 unit and a 1/2" cordless drill, the power units get occupied. The brace fills the gap when you have to add a couple holes but you don't want to slow down the guy using the mass-production drill. Grab the brace and have at it instead of waiting. Options are good. [/quote]

From two shipwrights:

[quote]Them modern thingies is 6-sided, not 8-sided bits, and some newer braces have 3-jaw and even 4-jaw chucks for handling round bits.

More could be added on both bits and driving screws:

Russell Jennings style bits are double twist, as compared to the Irwin single-twist style. Most were made with fine lead screws to pull the bit through the wood more slowly, but they were available with medium and coarse lead screws as well.

Point out the proper size drivers for each screw size, removing the taper from the sides of drivers that have that feature, �cause if you set a screw deep the taper will enlarge the counterbore and mess up the opening for plugs. Use the shortest shank on the driver that will work in any particular application is best for control i.e.: more torque, less cam out etc.

For boat work slotted screws are to be preferred with Reed and Prince or Phillips the next choice, Square Drive are nice but try to clean bedding compound out of one! Slotted screws have more meat in the head that�s less likely to break during a hard removal. Best trick to clean screw slots is a propane torch with a crappy driver heated and inserted in screw slot to clean out gunk. Use a cheap 'home dump' screwdriver and cut off the steel shank and use pliers to hold the hot bit to insert in the slot. [/quote]

Re: Well Said, Frank MUTCHLER!

Bob Hutchins in central Texas

>

Well Said, Matti!

Bob Hutchins in central Texas

>We agree entirely about the value of Mr. Smalser's posts.

Where else would I have the opportunity to speak with someone almost half a world away about an interest we share. You have an EXCELLENT command of English (where did you learn it so well?); whereas, alas, the only word of Finnish that I know is "Nokia".

Thank you for your participation here. I look forward to seeing your posts.

BobH, who is, himself, a '42 model.

Re: Don't feed the trolls!

Mike L

>If it grunts* like a troll and waddles like a troll ........... leave it be under its bridge.

Cheers,

Mike

*not to be confused with the sophisticated grunts of Galoots

p.s. Another great article Bob. Most of us really appreciate your contributions.

Jaw Spring detail question

Luke Herzberg

>Hi Bob, once again a great article. Thank you.

I have a question on the spring that holds the jaws apart. I have a no name brace and the jaws look similar to the one on the right in your photo of 3 different types. It has no spring, and I just assumed it was cheap and not intended to have one (and it's a pain to use that way). After reading your article, it looks like there is hope! How exactly does the spring that you made fit into it so as not to interfere with the bit?

Thanks,

Luke

Re: Don't feed the trolls!

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>Even supernatural creatures of Scandanavian folklore, variously portrayed as a friendly or mischievous dwarf or as giant, and live in caves, in the hills, or under bridges love Bob's articles

Good work Bob, thoroughly enjoyed it. Keep em' comin'

Regards

Jonathan - boring tools are not boring tools

Re: Sweep Brace Part II

Rob in Peoria

>After all the debate about the relative value of Bob's articles (which I save on my hard drive, by the way, just in case), I have a technical question.

You mentioned, Bob, that the bits are some of the easiest tools in the workshop to sharpen. How about the lead screws? I have several auger bits with lead screws that don't pull very well.

Is there a reasonable way to revamp these lead screws and save the bit?

Rob in Peoria

Brace Link *LINK*

David Miller from Iowa

>Sorry to hijack a question to Bob, but look at this link and click on all the different brace jaw links for a good overview. The spring sits down inside a groove and doesn't get in the way.

Also, I'd like to add my thanks to everyone else's - Bob Smalser articles are really great.


Brace types

Re: Well Said, Matti!

Matti Kuikka

>Thank you, Bob, for your kind words. Since finishing school I have done a great part of my reading (fiction) in english. I'll teach you another word of finnish. Kuikka means loony (regretfully as in bird, gavia arctica)

Matti

Huh?

Paul D. May

>What spurred this on is anyone's guess...

We are suppose to learn more here than how to tune a handplane...for us who have limited knowledge in some HT areas appreciate the time and effort put into these mini tutorials.

Thanks Bob....

Re: Brace Link

Bob Smalser, Seabeck, WA

>That's a terrific link, thanks.

Stanley had some chucks like the one on my little joist brace that were different from the patents shown.

Happens that I just fixed another one this morning...a Pexto 6-incher with broken spring and wrong shaft washer. Shoulda took pics.

Most two-jaw chucks either originally had or can be modified to take a spring to make them self-opening. Drill small holes abobe the base pin and bend some wire spring stock to run thru the holes up the outside of the jaws. Most jaws are grooved to hold the spring in place....if they are not, cast iron files real easy. Some jaws, like on the Pexto this morning, are grooved tempered steel....the wire fits inside the groove then the groove is peened over with a cold chisel to capture the wire.

The most common ratchet design has a screw on top that holds the chuck shaft in place. This screw has a bushing that looks like a washer that holds the top of the chuck centered and prevents it from wobbling. Sometimes these bushings are lost and another must be made by reaming out a standard washer.

Re: Take it or leave it

Greg Sloop

>Marvelous post!

Both Bob and Sam ought to get a serious reward!

Thanks,

Greg