drawknife value

Re: drawknife value

Greg B�tit, Vergennes, VT

>Come on up and try working your 16' spar on my shaving horse, then. I find it easy to work long pieces on a shaving horse, with the excess passing between my elbow and torso as I work up the shaft. The position is not as comfortable as pulling totally straight on a short workpiece in the horse, but far more comfortable than a standing position pulling semi-sideways on a piece held in some sort of brake.

Greg

Re: drawknife value

Scott in Douglassville, PA

>Damn, dude - how do you stay upright in a breeze? I'm 6'1" and 165#, and always hear how skinny I am; I'm guessing you disappear when you turn sideways... ;)

Re: drawknife value

Greg B�tit, Vergennes, VT

>I think that the rounded cutting edge facilitates the slicing action of the knife a little more easily than a straight one. Less of the cutting edge meets the workpiece at a given instant in a curved blade. Also you don't need to have one hand so far in front of the other when you are slicing with the rounded edge. That said, it's really not that noticeable a difference.

Greg

OOPS! Make that 220#!

Greg B�tit, Vergennes, VT

>

Re: Shaving ponies?

Dave Anderson Chester, NH

>I built a shave pony about 4 years ago from that link and it works great. It does sometimes take a little bit of fiddling and trial and error to get the dowel locations right. Considering I used scrap construction lumber though, one or two attempts isn't unreasonalbe. Try it, you'll like it!!

Re: drawknife value

William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>If it will fit in a shaving horse designed for shaping spindles and tool handles, that would be a lot better than the picnic tables I usually have to work on. I just couldn't imagine that a shaving horse was "one-size-fits-all." In my imagination, I see the far end of the spar running into the ground, since most of the shaving horses I have seen have a sloped work surface. Also, I see needing help to set the spar on top of my leg, and then to release me when I need to turn it around, when I'm done, and maybe even every time I need to resposition it. Also, as I work on down the spar, I imaging the finished part, sticking out behind me, overbalancing me and the horse, and tipping us both over backwards, maybe off the dock and into the river. I'm thinking, however that it would work better on a couple of low blocks, so I could straddle it, and so I could step off to reposition it. Maybe my fears are unfounded, and there are reasonable work-arounds for all of them, but I'm sure you can understand my reluctance to try it. The next project will be the jib horse, in white oak, 6" in diameter and over 20 feet long. Even if the club fits the shaving horse, I don't think the jib horse would, much less a gaff or a boom or a mast, if it ever becomes necessary to replace one of those.

That's better...

Scott in Douglassville, PA

>...thought we'd have to schedule an eating disorder intervention for ya!

One better...

Steve Kubien

>The head of my residence house in university was 6'9" and weighed 165lbs. We called him stork.

Nope that's no typo.

Steve Kubien

Ajax, Ontario

remove the _9 to email

Masts,booms,etc.

Bob Hackett

>You may want to check out Bill Grumbine`s website.He used to have an excellent pictorial on turning a mast for his skiff.Even if you didn`t want to turn a mast,you could use the lathe and it`s indexing feature to hold the work.Just one more way to de-fur the feline(like we needed yet another).

Mainely,Bob

Re: Incidentally, Mike...

Mike in Mystic

>Well, I got it for $15.50 - so thanks to you and everyone else that didn't bid on it :)

Mike

Hard to imagine...Bravo!

WoodburnBob

>

Re: Incidentally, Mike... *LINK*

Kurt Loup, Baton Rouge

>Mike,

Thought about sniping it, but I couldn't do it to a fellow paddle builder. What type of kayak paddle are you building? If you are interested, I have a couple pictures of the construction of an Aleut kayak paddle at the link below.

Kurt


Aleut paddle

Re: drawknife value

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Greg,that interesting looking shave?scraper?in the bottom of the picture. Is it homemade? What is it for?---Jack

Re: drawknife value

kees

>Use mine a most of the time beveldown!

kees

Re: Masts,booms,etc.

William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>I've seen Bill's spar. He has displayed it at the 5ive Barns events. That's a turning tour de force. It kind of expands the meaning of "between centers."

Aa I understand it, the jib horse (traveler) is supposed to have a certain amount of bow to it, to match the curvature of the deck, so turning that one will not be an option. Also, all I have is one JWL-1236, so these spars are out of it's league.

Your Welcome

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>

Concur

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>my first drawknife was seriously curved, and I found it to work fine.

Chairmaker's devil

Greg B�tit, Vergennes, VT

>That is a chairmaker's devil, made almost exactly as described in Drew Langsner's chairmaking book (I forget the exact title, but its a great book.) It is a scraper tool, with a circular edge(In this case 5/8" dia.) When making spindles this tool will leave them circular enough to make people sure they were turned, not riven and roughed down with a draw knife, etc. I accused a friend of mine of turning his spindles; that's when he introduced me to this tool.

The picture is part of a sequence I took and wrote up for someone interested in my method for teaching people learning how to rive and shave spindles. I wish I could find the whole sequence and write up, because I thought it was almost "Chairmaker Hall of Fame" worthy (though it is not my original idea.)

Greg

Nice paddle!

Greg B�tit, Vergennes, VT

>From the red and green, that convex side-to side soled spoke shave must be a Kuntz. I've heard them much maligned on this forum and others, what is your opinion of it?

I have their convex soled spoke shave, and found that after grinding the bevel to a steeper angle, it worked just fine. It was a dog until I did grind it, however.

Greg

Re: Nice paddle!

Kurt Loup, Baton Rouge

>Thanks Greg. You are right that its a Kunz spokeshave. It's serviceable, but it is a rough tool. The sole grinding is rough and the mouth opening could use filing. Overall, it could use a lot of tuning. Since I don't use it often, all I've done is sharpen the blade. The back needed a lot of work. I think it is worth the <$20 I paid for it. Seems like I purchased it on special from Highland Hardware for about $13.

Kurt

Re: Chairmaker's devil

Jack Guzman from Maine

>I've heard them mentioned enough but that's the first good picture I've ever seen of one of those.What caught my interest was that it looks easy enough to make.Kind of like a fancy scratch stock.---Jack

Re: Chairmaker's devil

Greg Betit, Crown Point NY

>It is a pretty easy project. In the picture you might have noticed that my cutter is "double sided". I had enough material, and it seemed like a good idea. The other deviation I made from Drew Langsner's was that the cutter is thicker metal. Both of these ideas proved to be little advantage. It takes hardly any time to sharpen it (I have never used the second side), and I think a thinner scraper blade cuts better for some reason (I have another chairmaker's devil, made by Harris Tools, that has a 7/8" diameter cutter, which is made of thinner stock (approximately the thickness of card scrapers).

Greg