drawknife value

Re: drawknife value

paul womack

>If you want a drawknife to use, it looks like a good buy at that price. Drawknifes can go cheaper, but that one is in good condition, by a good maker.

I'll leave it to others better informed on rarity etc. to comment on its suitability as a purely financial investment.

BugBear

Re: drawknife value

Bob Hackett

>$15-20 seems to be a common asking price up here for a tool like this is what looks to be good condition.Whitherby is a good name,by the way.

Mainely,Bob

Re: drawknife value

WoodburnBob

>I have 4 or 5 Witherby chisels and a drawknife or two. They take and hold a very keen edge. The one you show is especially nice looking and seems to be in good shape. Check the back flat surface. Pitting near the edge would be the only thing that could be troublesome. I'd give $15 for it easy. Once you put a perfect edge on it, be careful. It'd be pretty easy to slice something off. Make a sheath to protect the edge and yourself.

I would buy it

Roger Nixon

>I don't need another drawknife but I'd have to get this one.

I think we're all in agreement

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Here... for $15.00 dunkets I'd pick it up besides I don't own any curved ones (yet;).

As WoodburnBob said "Once you put a perfect edge on it, be careful. It'd be pretty easy to slice something off. Make a sheath to protect the edge and yourself."

Good point, but let's not forget putting an edge on one of these can be a dangerous, hair raising experience in its self.

Re: drawknife value

Ernie Miller Topeka

>If you need a draw knife or don't have one that would be a keeper! Heck I would probably picket it up because it is nicer that any that I have. But there have been time I couldn't hardly give them things away. so? It is nice.

Re: drawknife value *LINK*

David Miller from Iowa

>Mike - you will love a good drawknife. However, this is a slippery slope and you can't really get going with a drawknife without a shaving horse. I like this design.

Good luck, David


Drew Langsner

Incidentally, Mike...

WoodburnBob

>having now seen the full offering of the Witherby, I'd expect the new owner to put out two or three times the $15 you're thinking of before it's all over. Then there's postage. I won't be competing, nor probably will many from this group...knowing you are new to these ways and lust for this beauty. But you may not have done yourself any favors by posting the picture with your question...since it inherently suggests its orgin.

Also, take a look at the AJ Wilkinsons. They really are the best I think.

Slightly disagree

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>My shop's too small for a shaving horse, and I've been able to do quite a bit with the wood in the vise, although a horse WOULD be superior; I've also used the knife on posts that were just clamped to sawhorses. Great tools, and that particular one is truly pretty.

Re: drawknife value

Frank D. in Montreal

>Hi Mike I just bought one recently off of Ebay that looks a lot like yours (it's a Witherby; wanted to post a pic but it has expired). I got it for $17 plus shipping (came out to $25 total), and I'm happy with the price I paid.

Frank

Thanks!

Mike in Mystic

>thanks for all the feedback.

And, I do realize I was probably stupid to not disguise where I found this, but then again, it isn't too tough to figure it out even without the picture. Anyway, I've lived this long without a drawknife, so if I can't get this one I won't be too distraught. I'm planning to make some kayak and canoe paddles, which I probably won't do until the winter anyway.

Thanks again,

Mike

Re: drawknife value

William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>I have a Witherby, similar to yours, but with a straight blade, not curved, for which I paid $22. Mine sure holds an edge well. The morning I bought it, I looked at lots of drawknives. Before I put money down on the tailgate for it, I even asked Todd his opinion. He let me buy it, even though I'm sure he had found lots of them for less.

$15 is not too much to spend on that one, and I'm sure you will be pleased with its performance. Even if there is a pit or two in the edge, you will learn to avoid them. After several honings, many years from now, you should eventually eliminate the pits. A shaving horse is not necessary. There's no way I could get the 16' spar I'm currently working on into a shaving horse anyway. I have no problem using the drawknife for smaller stock held in my patternmaker's vise. If you don't have room in your shop for a horse, there are plans available for shaving ponies that install right in your shoulder vise. You just can't sit down while working at them, but then most amateurs aren't going to be using the drawknife all day long anyhow.

Re: drawknife value

Mike in Mystic

>I'm interested if you know of any pictures of a shaving horse in use. I've seen them around a few times and I can see their utility, but for me (I'm a pretty big guy) I wonder at how comfortable they are and if it would really improve my ability vs. some other clamping/vise arrangement.

Thoughts?

Mike

Shaving ponies?

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Sr. William, Care to extraplate? Gotta pic or a plan?

Re: drawknife value 

L. Hanson - N. Idaho

>

Re: drawknife value *LINK*

L. Hanson - N. Idaho

>You might want to look at a shaving mule, rather than a horse:




Shaving Mule

Re: Shaving ponies?  *LINK*

John Meikrantz

>


Shaving Pony Page

Way kewl Thanks!

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>

I gotta have one!

Rick R, So Cal

>I enjoyed using a full-size shaving horse when I borrowed one, but I couldn't see storing one of those beasts. The shaving pony would be the way to go. My workbench has a Veritas twin-screw end vise that would be perfect. And with a slight mod to Dave and Robb's design, I can see the foot pedal, lower jaw and upper jaw all folding neatly within the uprights for storage. Perfect! Thanks for posting the link.

By the way Mike- a kayak paddle was the project that introduced me to the drawknife. You will love the tool, and you can't just have one. If you don't get the Witherby, there will be many more, so no worries.

Rick

Re: Slightly disagree

Todd Hughes

>I used to do a lot of drawknife work making axe handles and what i used sometimes was a type of clamp that looked sort of like a lathe bed that went into my bench vice. Think of a bar clamp that had like a head stock on he inside at at both ends that held the work. the good thing about this tool is that it allowed you to drawknife/spoke shave three sides of your work with out moving it. These clamps were used by wheel wrights and Gunsmiths and was called I believe a "Fiddle". Would be easy to make from an old clamp....I see a good many old shaving benches for sale even in the old tool hell I live in and I have had a few but never liked working on them for what i made,[handles] i think most were used by shingle makers or maybey coopers that were working flat boards....well my take on it.....Todd...p.s. $15 ain't a bad price for the witherby d'knife as long as the handles are tight and right

You guys are good

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>I have never seen or heard of a shaving pony. Looks like the cats ... to me. Gonna have to build one this weekend.

Re: Shaving ponies?

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Thanks for a really useful link. That's just what I've been looking for.I have an oak leg vice clamped into the jaws of my end vise that I use now but it is limited in it's holding ability.---Jack

Re: drawknife value

kees

>I would go for a straight one, don't see the benefits of a rounded.

Look at the "right" one Drew Langsner is selling - although the price is not fair- on his website: www.countryworkshops.org

Important for a drawknife is : model and bevel/bezel

kees

Re: drawknife value

Greg B�tit, Vergennes, VT

>I highly encourage you to get yourself a shaving horse. If you are big, by all means make a shaving horse that fits you. I find all the plans out there to be too small for me. (I'm 6', 120 lbs.) But my shaving horse is just right.

There are many reasons why a shaving horse is better than a bench vise:

>The workpiece is placed square in front of you. The ergonomics are a straight pulling motion, as opposed to bending over or tilting your torso to address the workpiece as it is presented off the vise. This gives you better control, and your back and arms will end up less sore to boot.

>You are sitting, it is more comfortable than standing. You can hold that position longer.

> You can instantly release the dumbhead and switch to working on another surface. Repeatedly moving the workpiece inIn the vise is tedious. You will be reluctant to unwind, move the piece, and close the vise repeatedly. You will therefor find yourself working on the sides at an awkward angle rather than working with the piece at an optimal presentation.