Lie-Nielson Chisels, yes they are that good!!

Re: Lie-Nielson Chisels, yes they are that good!!

Andy Sexson

>BTW - how do you like the Glen-Drake asymetrical handle?

Re: Lie-Nielson Chisels, yes they are that good!!

Manny

>It's comfortable. I like it. Last time I spoke to Kevin Drake, I think, he said he takes the rough shaped handle and does the final shaping by hand. So, you may notice, when picking up more than one hammer, there may be a very slight difference in feel from one to the next. Only wish he would make a heavier hammer. He usually shows up to the Japan Woodworker bi-yearly blow-out sale. So, I keep trying to plant that idea in his head, but it ain't working.:-(

Re: Coping Saw?

Manny

>When using my thin kerf Japanese saws, I remove the waste in two cuts. I start at the center of the waste and cut down then angle towards the left corner of the socket. With half the waste removed I then make a cut towards the right corner, removing most of the waste. Then clean out as usual. With a coarse blade on the fret saw (or coping saw) the two cuts go quickly.

Re: Coping Saw?

Todd Stock

>See the earlier note on the Y cut - same as we use on the band saw to clear waste. I just hate making two or three cuts when one should do (though there is absolutely no justification - sawing is always faster).

Re: I disagree.

Ed Snow

>True, so true.

I was being somewhat objective about my term sharp. People have different sharpening methods and some of those are not capable of realizing super sharpness but they appear to work and have worked.

My sharp is different from your sharp and her sharp is different from his and so on and so forth.

HILARIOUS, Todd! Thanks!

Howard In Toronto

>

Thanks to all who answered...

Martin from Granbury

>I have a fret saw, but I also have a coping saw, I'll try them both with the "Y" technique. I am a beginner when it comes to hand cut dovetails, and after snapping several fret saw blades, I gave up on that idea and just chopped them out. I think using the saw would be faster, but I know some purists who would recoil at the thought. I think if I mastered the use of a fret or coping saw, it might be a little quicker to clean out the waste.

I try to make the space at the edge of the board between the tails 3/16 of an inch, another reason I went with the narrow blade. I like the look of the smaller pins, as opposed to bigger ones. I have been using, and enjoy, my Adria dovetail saw. Nice, thin kerfs, and the handle fits my large hands well.

Thanks for all the help. I was originally on the Pond, and post occasionally here and at SMC. Ellis has made the former Ponders feel most welcome here, and I thank him for that.

Re: A question about the course you took...

Duncan S. Robertson

>The course I took last july (03) was Rob Cossmans basic course. The course I am taking this July is his advanced course. My decision to take the first course co-incided (sp?)with my decision to get into hand tool work in a big way. I was at the Calgary woodworking show and watched Rob cut a dovetail on the stage in front of about 75 people in about 20 minutes. He was talking and explaining every step of the way and when he had finished cutting the dovetail he applied glue and pounded home the joint. NO TEST FIT!!!! He made 2 or 3 passes over each side of the joint with a 4 1/2 smoother plane and handed the joint around for people to view.The joint was absolutly perfect, not close, not sorta OK, perfect with no test fitting. I figured if I was goning to pay my hard earned money to learn something new, He would be a good starting place. His course was everything I hoped it would be and more! During the course I made a point to talk to the other 11 people on the course about their tools and how successful they had been with them. No one had any tool that stood up to the ease of use, edge retention and accuracy of the LN tools. I don't want to re state my own problems with my LV planes. I will only say that when I returned the LV tools, the people at LV were gracious, helpful and completly OK with me returning my LV tools. You asked how do I discern difference and then select the best tool for me, The only way that works for me is to try the different tools in my own shop where I can take my time and do a real apples to apples test. If it is hand planes, I want to be the one sharpening both blades and then be the one doing the planning. Then I have to decide if the price difference vs quality is worth it to me. For the answer to how do they effect my woodworking, if something raises my enjoyment level, I am more likely to spend more time woodworking because, plain and simple, its more fun!!! Then, with more time spent woodworking I become a better woodworker and it becomes even more fun to woodwork and round and round it goes�

Re: Lie-Nielson Chisels, yes they are that good!!

Duncan S. Robertson

>You say the crushing of fibres is not a funtion of sharpness but is either a wrong bevel or too much force, yah right. Try paring spruce with a dull chisel! Both the blue chip and the LN that I used have the same bevel and microbevel on them, both were used with the same mallet by the same person and the simple result is; LN 1 - blue chip no score

I agree!

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, South of Miami FL

>

Re: Thanks to all who answered...

Todd Stock

>Martin:

Also try a cut starting centered on waste, running off tight to one side, tight turn just above the line, and finish an 1/8" (softwood) or 1/16" (hard stuff) above the line in the opposite corner. No more work finishing up than the usual.

I doubt anyone will take you to task for sawing out the waste, unless it's Klausz.

Re: A Pre-Summary of Responses

Ernie Miller Topeka

>That is the best part of this thread? People return tools to LV? I must get on some sort of list to buy them tools at a discount. I'm betting he never took the time to learn how to sharpen them. I'm betting in two months my junk beaters are sharper than his LN's

Re: A Pre-Summary of Responses

Dean in Burlington

>I'll take that bet.