I recently saw a video about upgrading such a saw.The upgrades (by Carter) were for a kit that provides roller bearings instead of friction bearings(cool blocks) and for a lever-type contraption to quickly tension the blade. My questions are (1) why are roller bearings better than friction blocks? I have ceramic friction blocks on my Laguna 16, which work great. And, (2) as for the tension lever, the problem for me is not the time it takes to tension the blade, but the considerable hand- twisting torque that I must apply for each turn of the small tensioning knob. So why not just attach a larger wheel --instead of the small knob --that could clearly be set up to apply more torque for less effort? I have to admit, though, that on the video the upgrades, which are expensive, appeared to work wonderfully!
I added wheel guides to the top because the cool block wore out frequently (probably something I was doing wrong). I also took off the wheel and added a hand crank (very fast). The instructions for the Carter lever say it has to be adjusted to proper tension each time it's used. Seems like no improvement if that's true.
I did buy a quick tension attachment I found on a bargain table in Woodcraft. I loved it. My current (larger) bandsaw came with a quick tensioner built in and I'm glad it did.
Also, I never had any problem with the steel guides it came with. I switched to the fiber cool blocks at one point and also made wooden blocks from lignum vitae for some things, for example for embedding a very narrow blade in the center of the guides.
BTW, I'm assuming this is the 14" Delta model with a cast iron frame. I used mine for a bunch of years, mostly for resawing and cutting up log sections into turning blanks. (after adding a riser block) If you have that saw and need any parts, you might check with Iturra Design. 904) 642-2802 Their catalog is almost a course in bandsaws. They carry lots of replacement and upgraded parts as well as tools and accessories. The last catalog I got from them is over 250 pages!
Yes, I'm glad that experienced people here see it the way I do; so I won't go out and pay a bunch to just help Carter's bottom line. To be fair, though, I assume that there's only a small tension adjustment each time you use the quick release lever --instead of all that cranking.
There are upgrade kits available for 14" bandsaws that replace a short threaded rod with a longer one that has a longer handle or a larger turning wheel. That handle or a wheel could be taken off and two or three nuts screwed instead, so one could use a ratcheting wrench that has an even longer handle.
However be careful, because these saws have a weak point in design - the top axle hinge where the top wheel sits. They're cast aluminum or similar metal and they prone to crack. A longer handle or a larger turn wheel allows more leverage, so it's easier to break the hinge. I was installing this longer rod and didn't feel any resistance at all when my hinge snapped. A well known problem, there's a number of people that sell machined aluminum hinges on ebay, but still. Not your problem apparently, Lagunas are built better, but just in case.
The appeal of the tensioning lever is that it's easy to remove tension after you switch off the saw rather that remembering doing it before closing the shop. I personally wouldn't benefit from this upgrade, because I do "machine days", but wouldn't object if it came with a saw.
I have the Delta 14" bandsaw with a 12" riser. I've never had a problem with using cool blocks, and in probably over 30 years of use, I've never taken the tension off the blade. The only time I do this is to change blades. It still has the original tires. Mostly I run Woodslicer blades.
I have a Delta 14" bandsaw that is about 25 years old. I have added a riser block, the Carter ball bearing guides and the Carter quick release lever. I think I have spent more on upgrades than on the original saw. Somewhere along the way I had Cool Blocks.
I am not sure the ball bearing guides were worth the money. The tension release lever has a Red ball on the end of the handle. It has become known as Bozo Nose. When I leave the shop I look to see if Bozo Nose is down. It has three settings. Full tension, about half tension, and completely released. To change the blade, you release it with the handle, Remove and replace the blade, Half tension it, adjust it to run true, and fully tension it and double check. I find setting the ball bearing guides to be more fiddly than it should be, requiring Allen wrenches. Should be knobs you could adjust with your fingers.
I was constantly switching back and forth between a narrow blade for cutting curves and a wider blade for resawing. I found this to be annoying and tedious and figured out the answer was a second bandsaws. As some of you know, I had a second one for several years that ran a 3" wide blade. Then I bought two more at a freight auction (Laguna 14" saws). I sold the one with the 3" blade, tuned up one of the Lagunas and have repaired and fixed the other Laguna and have sold it, so soon I will be back to two.
So, I like the tension release on the Delta saw because it speeds up blade changing. Very little adjusting of the knob. I am unsure if the roller bearings are worth the money. The Cool Blocks were fine.
One improvement to the tension knob issue is to extend the knob position above the upper blade guard with a piece of all thread. I did this some years ago and found that it greatly improved my ability to tension the blade. You could also replace the factory knob with a handwheel. I release the tension on the blade after each use. As I now also have a 16" Laguna, I have converted the Delta to a metal cutting saw by replacing the motor with a salvaged winch gear motor. The modified Delta sees infrequent use and the Laguna has a hand wheel. Overall, I'm okay for now.
I could take or leave them really. I wore out one set of the bigger one used as a thrust bearing behind the blade. Once replaced that doesn't seem to have happened again. On the plus side the bearings were readily available.
For the side bearings it really makes no difference, I've run saws in various shops that have had everything from cool blocks to bits of scrap steel as the side bearings. All seemed to work fine.
The lever sounds nice for quick blade changes, I've never had one of those. I never bother with detensioning blades but it would be nice for changing.
My first band saw was a Chinese copy of a copy. When the threads on the tensioner wore out I put a piece of threaded rod in its place and would toss a cordless drill on it when I needed to use the saw.
I do prefer the power tensioner to the handwheel on my Delta.
I wore out my cool blocks and bought the Carter guides. I like them, but don't have a value judgement.
I bought an aftermarket hand screw for the blade tension release. I didn't like it because: a) it was still way up there are difficult to turn, and b) The all thread shaft seemed at risk for bending due to the lateral force of the screw handle.
I made a home made tension relief with a broom handle and wood scraps. It is a long lever arm sticking out the column side of the saw that I just push up and shove a small wooden wedge under the handle to hold it up. Been using it for years. Works great.
