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10 years of strop experience

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10 years of strop experience

#1

10 years of strop experience

David Weaver

As a follow-on to the commentary below about oil. First off, I"ll state that on something like a strop, I'll get enough to make two of the same thing so I can beat on the first thing and not be precious with it and then only be gentler if I have to. I used to be the opposite (with everything - cars, machines, power tools, etc. Even as a kid, my dad had us all going with the OWT that you never run anything full throttle. We ran the chainsaw below WFO, and the mowers at 1/2 to 2/3rd throttle both to "take it easy on them and to save fuel". All of them wore out, anyway).

I've treated my 110v thickness planer like I don't care if it works tomorrow, and it's been going for about 6 or 7 years now (intermittent use, admittedly).

So, to the strops - I admired the horse butt strips that joel sells, but am too cheap to buy them because I can't trust myself not to have to do it two or three times to replace something I abused, so at the time I decided to make a bunch of strops, I bought four square feet of veg tanned bovine and two horse butt strips. As I recall, the total for all of this was about $80. I made one butt strip leather paddle strop (still using), one bovine paddle strop (still using) and one hanging butt strip razor strop (still using, but mostly retired in favor of french shell strops - not horween, btdt and one razor with spinework demolishes the surface finish on horween).

The reason for two strops in the shop was one bovine with no compound, one horse butt for everything else. I also do metalwork in the shop, so sometimes they have to be scraped for more than one reason.

I figured that within a short period of time, they'd:

* come loose from the wood backer

* be scraped to nothing, or torn or lose texture from the rough scraping

* have some property change to the leather because I've never spared the rod on what goes on the loaded strop

* get so contaminated with metal that they couldn't be used

None of those have happened, and until I fell in love with the buffer earlier this year (February? April?) I used both of them constantly.

What's gone on them:

* mineral oil

* neatsfoot oil

* strop conditioner (a waste of money for the razor strop, so wasted some on the shop strops)

* autosol

* WD 40

* various wax sticks

* loose abrasive (which is in autosol, anyway)

* dursol (like autosol, but seems to be much stinkier)

* spit

aside from a few nicks, both are in nearly perfect shape and I scrape them regularly if there's any accumulation on them often, and if there is any little glinty bit left seen on the clean surface (or even settled wood dust), then I use the corner of the card scraper to pick out anything that shines that doesn't just scrape off with a fingernail. if the card scraper scuffs a dot into the leather, it "grows back together", anyway, in short order.

I look at edges under microscopes from time to time - if there are any contaminants (even little metal bits that are barely big enough even to see in bright light), they make very visible nicks (under the scope) in edges, so the standard that I'm discussing here is pretty high.

don't spare the rod!

From that original $80 haul of leather, I must have enough to make ten more strops.

(as far as glue goes, one was glued with yellow glue and the other liquid hide - I couldn't tell which is which without steaming them at this point - no part of any of them has lifted off of the wood, but I did make a paddle strop for someone out of an old strop once and the first one had to be thrown away due to dry leather and too much glue - the glue soaked into the leather and made inconsistent hard spots)

Re: 10 years of strop experience

#2

Maintenance

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

So, you occasionally scrape. Like with a card scraper?

Re: 10 years of strop experience

#3

Re: Maintenance

David Weaver

Yes, often. But now with unicorn, it's occasionally. What comes off of the strop is something that looks like soil. When you get to good quality leather, the scraping progress stops - there's no great danger of scraping a whole bunch off.

If I forget to lay the strops on their side before doing something that makes a lot of wood dust, I will often have to scrape them due to that, too. Ambient dust and wood dust is abrasive enough to make icky pictures under the edge.

I haven't done thorough testing to tell if something else ambient may be skewing my thoughts about wood dust, but that wouldn't be hard to check.

It would be smart to put the strops in a drawer when I"m not using them, but periodic scraping keeps the surface fresh and a known quantity.

Re: 10 years of strop experience

#4

subsequent thought on scraped...

David Weaver

once you scrape a plain leather strop, the surface (if it's oiled and scraped) becomes relatively smoothed, but it looks a little scuffed scraped.

With oil in the leather, rolling something smooth over it makes the whole surface dark.

If you strop a tool that's got any significant defects in it, it will leave light lines on the leather, and since the leather isn't just a dry piece hanging around, it won't be a dry surface that's all scratched up. Defects and dingleberry wire edges that just won't let go on corners both leave a scuff mark (subtle) on the leather. The first time a smooth edge sees the leather after fixing it, all scuffs are immediately gone.

Having the leather glued down helps with ability to tease the wire edge off on a stone and use a relatively light touch on the strop. Heavy handed stropping always introduces defects on a crisp apex (I've seen more than one instructional video with a loose piece of leather that curls up when not being used, and heavy handed stabbing/pushing into the strop. If that's needed for someone using a coarser stone, the edge should've been teased off with a couple of alternating strokes before.

If you're still using 1 micron diamonds, it's unlikely to improve much to strop other than maybe identify an area with a defect. But stropping after the washita and teasing an edge off is a sublime pairing.

Re: 10 years of strop experience

#5

Re: 10 years of strop experience

Jack Dover

I want through 5 strops in past 5 years. 4 of them were badly gauged, one was lost (or secretly borrowed, I'll never know). All of them were from one offcuts batch and MDF scraps, I doubt the whole budget was more than 25$. Never had a contamination issue, my primary sharpening tray is covered when unused with a rag.

You have mentioned autosol\durasol a few times, is it worth trying if I already have a lifetime supply of green compound? I was thinking getting a tube for traveling, but given the situation I don't think I'll be traveling for projects any time soon. Maybe for non-flat surfaces, like auger screws or gimlets?

Re: 10 years of strop experience

#6

Re: 10 years of strop experience

David Weaver

Green sticks and autosol are similar in practical fineness. I think if you experiment with how much oil you want to add in while laying on the abrasive, you'll get along well with the green. No need to spend extra.

Re: 10 years of strop experience

#7

how much oil

Jack Dover

Quite a bit apparently, about as much as I would put on a stone - and it soaked like crazy. It also evens compound out indeed, there were a few spots and gauges where compound wasn't getting into leather very well, now it's all even dark color. Funny that I was trying to prevent oil from getting on my strop before.

Re: 10 years of strop experience

#8

Re: how much oil

David Weaver

I used to put a couple of drops on where the compound would cake up, but over time, a pretty hefty top layer of the strop would get fully brown. Not sure if soaking it will threaten the glue. You'll notice a much nicer action now when using compound.

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