I have used 1/4" white pegboard in the past and was not happy with the way it performed. It had a bit of textured finish and seemed to collect and hold dust. I also probably overloaded it as it seemed to bow in the middle even on 16" centers. I will probably have a couple of rows of French cleats around the walls with custom holders for the various tools. Easy to change around and reconfigure
If I use the Smartsiding that Paul suggested that I use, it will cost about a grand to do the walls downstairs. To me that is a cost effective and attractive alternative. I have seen a bunch of shop pictures of shop walls that have been put up muddied and never painted. Also, like a lot of garages in new homes. Plus I don't think I will accidentally punch a hole in the wall with Smartsiding.
The Zip sheeting may be a contender. It appears to be a product similar to what Paul Blackwell suggested up above. The Smartsiding does come preprimed, will have to see if the Zip sheeting can be painted. Lowes carries it and it is about a 1/3 cheaper than the Smartsiding. Will have to do some serious side by side comparisons.
The floor is already poured and I hate the look of a cut and patched floor. I am considering some of interlocking floor tiles (plastic or OSB) that I can use to soften the floor. Again my hip and knees do not like concrete, plus I already have ton of ant fatigue mats. In the future I may put 2 X 6 joist on the floor and cover with 3/4" inch plywood, with dust collection and floor outlets. I will have to figure out a way to raise the walk in door. In the mean time I will have a bunch of 110 outlets in the ceiling and two 220 30 amp outlets in the ceiling.
You stated, "Be sure to leave a space for the "project" whatever it is I have seen any number of shops full of tools with no space to build anything." I resemble that remark. That is why everything in the shop but one workbench and two pedestal grinders are on casters.
From personal experience (see above pic) the 28ga white steel panels are an excellent option. Screwed to joists, rafters, or trusses, they're easy to put up by one man. The screws automatically mark the wood so hanging/mounting stuff to the ceiling later is easy. Plus they meet/exceed fire code.
The floor. I have 3/4 “ plywood floating floor. Plywood is on 1x3 furring strips laid 24” on center ,loose on the floor leaving a 4 “ gap at the ends for ventilation. Very comfortable ,warm and allows for fishing wires to machines . Have had this type of floor for over 30 years. Paul
I overbuilt my shop installing 2"X 6" studs on 16" center. I used OSB on the outside with house wrap on the outside, 6" Kraft roll insulation, solid plastic over that on walls and ceiling, then used 5/8" drywall on walls and ceiling painted smoke grey. The reasons I went with drywall was that it is fire retardant and easy to repair! I installed 120V outlets 4' from floor every other stud (32") plus a few extra by the doors etc. I also installed dedicated 240V outlets for the dust collector, compressor, and a 50 amp 220V for the welder. I also installed 4 or 5 in locations for my Planer, Lathe, surface grinder etc..
My shop is 30' X 30' with 10' downstairs and a 10' X 30'
X 8' upstairs (with knee walls). I also installed my NG furnace with central air upstairs with the duct work in the ceiling of 1st story. I have 4 full length florescent lamp rows in the 1st floor plus 6 100Watt Halogen bulbs - all rows have separate switches. I did install a pipe through the floor and foundation for a urinal & sink, but since there is only about 10' between my house & shop doors, haven't as yet installed them.
I want to thank you for your input, thoughts and ideas. You have given me much to think about and I now have some decisions to make. I am sorry that I did not do this sooner, but I had gallbladder surgery and I have more holes in my belly than what they said I would have. If the doctor told me why, I don't remember. I will find out on the 30th when I have my post op followup. Again, thanks very much.