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A discussion of panel clamps

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A discussion of panel clamps

#1

A discussion of panel clamps

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

A discussion of panel clamps

With the exception of pipe clamps, I don’t expect anyone to junk the panel clamps they are using. Hence, the purpose of this discussion is to inform someone new to clamping needs the merits of the choices available. If what you got works for your needs, and you got all the clamps you need, read no further.



Panel clamps are used for gluing up pieces of lumber to achieve more width, a table top for example as shown in Picture 1. Franklin, maker of Titebond, recommends 100-200 psi on the joint, depending on the wood species, for optimum joint assembly.



This large span of this same kind of clamp is also used in assembling case work, as shown in PIC 2.



Or they may be pressed into service when it is all hands on deck and the supply of F-style is insufficient, PIC 3.


There are at least 4 styles of panel clamps- steel I-beam, aluminum channel, parallel jaw Bessy type and pipe. When I began woodworking in the 70’s they only panel clamp you would find in professional shops were the Hargrave I-beam clamps made by Cincinnati Tool Works., shown on the left in Picture 4. They remain stiff even under maximum pressure which is something more than 2000 psi. A 2’ clamp weighs 7 pounds, a substantial disadvantage when using them for case assembly, but not a factor when assembling panels, the task they were designed for. Unfortunately, they are no longer made, but because of the vast numbers that were made they show up in used tool markets.

There are numerous aluminum channel clamps available ranging from the cheap in-every-way Harbor Freight clamps to the industrial quality clamps originally made by Universal Tool Company, the clamps shown on the right in Picture 4. These clamps were designed to hold up in industrial woodworking environments. I was told by the company owner that his industrial customers tightened them with air wrenches just like they did on panel assembly clamp stations, but probably not at the same air pressure. The rights to manufacturer these clamps was transferred to the Dubuque Company after Universal lost their casting operation that made the heads. At one time I could buy these clamps from Dubuque if I ordered them in case lots of 10 clamps. I bought dozens for club members. This wholesale price was about half retail. Lee Valley sells this clamp, but not in all the sizes available from Dubuque.

Rated at 1000 psi they are adequate for panel gluing 4/4 lumber. They are nimble to handle. It is easy to grab 4 at a time from the clamp rack. Where they excel is in case assembly operations. At ¼ the weight of I-beam clamps their weight doesn’t distort what is being clamped into squarness nor add so much weight that moving the result is difficult. The fact that these lightweight clamps can be manipulate while holding just the screw end is advantageous when clamping up drawers and the like. These are my go-to panel clamps.

Probably the most popular clamp is the parallel jaw Bessy style clamp. I own two of this kind of clamp (Jorgensen) and almost never use them because I have not found any advantage they have over the I-beam or channel clamps. In my hands his clamp is substantially more difficult to adjust to length. It would seem that their smooth, large parallel jaws are their primary advantage. This feature could be advantageous in some case assembly. It offers no significant advantage in panel assembly. These clamps weigh about 4X the weight of the aluminum channel clamps making them substantially less nimble, especially in case and drawer assembly. They have about half the load rating of steel I-beam clamps, making them marginal for assembling 8/4 and thicker panels. On the other hand the tightening handle enables them to be positioned close to one another to accumulate adequate pressure.

The least expensive, and least useful, panel clamp is the pipe clamp. They are difficult to adjust and the pipe will flex under load well short of proper panel assembly pressures. They are heavy for case and drawer assembly.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#2

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

Don Stephan

Curious about the suggestion that gluing thicker stock should have greater clamping pressure. Is the issue clamping pressure per square inch of the joint? In a discussion perhaps several months ago I thought it was suggested that bar clamps are capable of supplying much more pressure than needed.

A side note, when placing bar clamps above a joint I've had black stain occur if the bar was in contact with the wet glue, probably on red oak. I always use a spacer by each outside edge so that the bar will not contact the surface of the wood. This also avoids a possible ding in the wood if the clamp slips out of my hand.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#3

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

Dick Coers

Nice story Bill. I put a lot of groceries on the table during the 8 years I ran a custom woodworking business. Only clamps in the shop were pipe clamps, and C and F clamps for small work. No such thing as parallel jaw clamps in those days. Never had a call back for failed glue joint. Edit; I thought about it a little more, and i think I did have some parallel jaw clamps near the end.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#4

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

Barry Irby

Woodworking has always been a hobby for me. Never profitable, although I have made some money from the work. Most of my long clamps are pipe clamps. Many of them are close to fifty years old, I bought when I was a kid. Not only were they cheaper than the clamps you mention, they were readily available. I could walk into the local hardware store and buy them. I have a few long clamps, some of them like the Besseys. I find them hard to use.

I modified my pipe clamps by adding wooden jaws made of baltic birch plywood scraps. The jaws are about 6" tall and allow the bottom clamps to stand alone and the handles spin without hitting the table and the upper clamps to rest on the jaw extensions without the pipes resting on the panel. A tremendous improvement. The versatility of being able to change the length by changing the pipes can be very useful.

I have made hundreds of joints with these clamps and have never had a failure I could attribute to the clamps. Considering that many of the craftsmen who made the antiques we admire probably had none of these clamps and at least in some cases made rubbed joints I am skeptical tremendous clamping force is necessary.

I am still keeping an eye peeled for clamps being sold by the widow of a clamp hoarder.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#5

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

David Yoho

Nice information, Bill. All those many years ago when I first started out in my home shop it would have been nice to know all that. All I knew for clamping panels was pipe clamps. In an effort to fit the budget I purchased the pipe clamp ends and used 3/4" rigid galvanized pipe. Soon I found that black pipe was stiffer and also didn't allow the clamp to slip when tightening.

While they worked, they were clumsy and heavy to use. Along came the Bessey parallel clamps, which were lighter, didn't stain the wood, and always clamped things square. I bought a bunch in various sizes in the course of time. I do own two long I-beam clamps that see limited use but valuable when real pressure and length is needed.

Those aluminum clamps you have would have been nice for a lot of the clamping I did but at the time I didn't know about them or their benefits. As much as I like my Besseys, they would have made my life easier had I known.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#6

you got the point....

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

The objective was to provide information others might not have.

It may be that people associate aluminum bar clamps with what they are able to see at Harbor Freight. I encountered the Universal clamps at Many's in Lexington (now closed), recognized their utility and tracked down the source. The Hargrave clamps are no longer made. Why a foreign manufacturer never copied them is mystery. It could be that a recent woodworker would encounter them at an estate sale and not realize they were, and still are in cases, the workhorse clamp of professional shops and factories.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#7

good point and answering a question

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

What is necessary is pounds per square inch. Hence, if the thickness of a panel is doubled the necessary total clamp pressure is doubled.

As you point out a disadvantage of steel bars or pipes is corrosion by the glue squeeze out. The dissolved iron reacts with the lignin in the wood and colors it black, but only to a small depth. Furniture factories don't need to worry about it because they glue up panels from thick lumber. When they plane to thickness the black is removed. However, we often glue panels from finished size lumber and this staining is a problem that must be avoided. Coated steel and aluminum bars do not corrode which can be an advantage, especially is case assembly where isolating the clamp bar could be inconvenient.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#8

Do you recommend them?

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I started out my woodworking with pipe clamps too.....didn't we all? Had I known of their disadvantages relative to other choices I would have skipped over that learning experience and began with better functioning clamps.

I could cut dovetails with a hack saw, but I don't recommend a beginner starting there if they can afford something better.

As beginners we start with what we know and can, or will, afford. With greater knowledge I would have avoided most of the beginning choices I made and began with what I eventually found to be best for my work. I didn't have a club or Forum to provide information from experienced woodworkers.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#9

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

"Considering that many of the craftsmen who made the antiques we admire probably had none of these clamps and at least in some cases made rubbed joints I am skeptical tremendous clamping force is necessary. "

You get to choose whether Franklin, maker of Titebond, did well designed experiments and came to valid conclusions for recommending clamp pressure for various wood species. But what can not be denied is that this work applies to their glue, under factory conditions which involve humidity control, lumber moisture content control, controlled glue thickness application, edges prepared on industrial equipment and clamp stations for applying the pressure, with the goal of achieving maximum joint strength. It seems a stretch to extrapolate what you have observed for antiques to be skeptical of Franklin recommendations for their product under modern factory conditions.

Most of the technical manual from Franklin on "Troubleshooting Glue Failure" involves joint preparation and clamp pressure. Don't you suppose this manual is a result of their experience in dealing with customer glue failures with their product? Perhaps if you are willing and able to emulate the materials, procedures and results of a 1780 shop you won't have to worry about clamp pressure for your needs. Otherwise it might be prudent to presume Franklin has determined how to best use their product. You get to choose how close to "best" you are willing to work.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#10

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

Barry Irby

It's good to know that Franklin has been at this a long time and has vast experience, gaining tremendous and relevant knowledge. Sometimes, with other products and companies, this is not true. Check Takata Airbags and General Motors door lock and ignition switches. Apparently corporate knowledge gets lost over time. It's also reassuring that Franklin's products are so good and forgiving that even us amateurs working with less than the best equipment and skills under imperfect conditions can produce glue joints that are entirely successful.

And thank you for posting this. For the last few weeks I have been thinking about making a glue up table/station and how I could fit it into my tiny shop. Also considering a bigger planer. Between this post and my previous response I spent some time looking for Dubuque Clamps. I may be ordering some later today. What length do you find most useful?

And, isn't the Internet amazing?

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#11

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

Matt

Nice, informative write-up, Bill.

Never liked pipe clamps either, but I have a couple on the rack. A couple years ago I bought 10 of the Dubuque in variou lenghts and that has been money well spent. For heavier duty requierments I still have several of the Jorgensen 72xx I-Bar clamps and a couple Wilton's which are similar to old Hargrave.

I guess the Jorgensen's are in demand as I saw ONE 48" for sale on eBay for $99 and $50+ in shipping...

-Matt

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#12

clamp alignment an issue also?

DizD

Over the years I've seen info published about aligning the clamp screw head with the center of the board. Probably to help keep the panel flat, keep it from bowing. On 8/4 stock, probably not much of an issue. On 4/4 stock I generally lift the clamp bar with my fingers to align screw close to center. This also solves the glue to metal discoloration issue.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#13

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

AZ in Colorado Springs

All excellent points. Leads me to believe that the Titebond line allows a wide margin for error. Or, as Barry said, "forgiving." Which I'm grateful for, by the way.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#14

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I have bunches of 2' for routine panel gluing. At times every one of them is in use, supplemented with the longer ones. I have 4-3f oot and 4-4 foot and 4 -6 foot for case work.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#15

a discussion of clamp posiiton initiated

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I register the panel on the clamp bars to align the pieces. I alternate clamp position top and bottom for even pressure distribution. If using the steel clamps I put down a couple thickness of news paper to keep the glue off the steel. .

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#16

One more question.....

Barry Irby

Is the stated length of the clamp the overall length or the "reach", the width of the panel it will clamp. That is, will a two foot clamp glue up a two foot panel?

(I was thinking of ordering 3' clamps. They will work for 2' panels and the occasional table top.)

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#17

Re: One more question.....

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

The Universal clamps extend 1/2" beyond that stated length. Presumably the new maker kept this specification, but I don't know for sure.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#18

Re: a discussion of clamp posiiton initiated

Larry Clinton At Frankfort, (Central) Indiana

One advantage of the Bessy clamps is that they lie on the table flat. When gluing a panel, I lay a sheet of waxed paper on the bottom clamps, align the boards, then install the upper clamps. I can then tap individual boards in the panel until they are bottomed on the lower clamps prior to final tightening. Although the Bessy's won't stain the wood, it is very difficult to clean the glue out of the grooves of the clamps (DAMHIKT). It almost appears Titebond would work as a metal glue!

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#19

don't all clamps lie flat on a table?

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I use my bar clamps the same way you do.

Titebond adheres tenaciously to steel but not so much aluminum. In the factories they periodically blast the clamp stations with steam to strip the glue.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#20

Re: don't all clamps lie flat on a table?

Larry Clinton At Frankfort, (Central) Indiana

By flat I mean the clamping blocks have a square bottom that allows the clamp to be parallel to the surface it is laying on and stand alone in that position, the "bar" is then held over the table by 2 inches or so. As I recall several other oddball aluminum clamps do not do that, nor stand alone. Neither do pipe clamps.

This does allow me to match grain patterns etc., measure to ensure I still have enough length to trim safely.

I have many clamps I have purchased at Estate sales and auctions. Can't say what the brands are, a lot are quite old but still work well.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#21

Dubuque clamp sale.......

roger lance

Woodpecker, Inc. has a sale going on these clamps.....24" and 36"......

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#22

Re: Dubuque clamp sale.......

David Bassett

The regular prices at both TFWW (https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TL/item/MS-ABAR.XX) and The Best Things (https://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/uniclamps.htm) are lower than those sale prices.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#23

Kneale Brownson

Waxed paper

Kneale Brownson

When I first used pipe clamps 50 or so years ago, I learned to place small pieces of waxed paper under the pipes at the joints of panels to keep the glue off the metal.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#24

Re: Waxed paper

Yonak

There are many places to get paper for this purpose which may be stouter than waxed paper. My wife gets seafood which outer wrapping is brown paper with a slick coating. Also, the film removed from mailing label pouches has a similar coating. Some bakery boxes have a slick coating.

Re: A discussion of panel clamps

#25

Re: Waxed paper

William Duffield

I use several short sections of PVC pipe. Number of rings depends on the length of the clamp. Advantage is I don't have to go look for them every time I'm gluing up a panel. They are always right there on the clamp when I need them, but don't get in the way.

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