Best Blade for

Re: Best Blade for

George@Colonel's Workshop-Havertown PA

>Good Afternoon Guy,

You will get many positive opinions on various blades, mostly true. I use a Suffolk 1/2" band, 3 tpi for the majority of my resaw needs. They also make, and I own and use, a 3/4" band. My 14" Jet seems to like the 1/2" band better. I could be tempted by other premium resaw blades because I view them all as effective, and don't do so much resawing to begin with.

George

Re: Best Blade for

Guy Kroll

>Thank you George, your opinion is always appreciated.

Guy

Re: Best Blade for

mdclor

>I agree with George, Suffolk blades are great and their customer service equals their blades. There are other great blades, but for the price, I think these are the best. No relationship with Suffolk, etc, etc.

Merle

Re: Best Blade for

Larry in NW Ohio

>I use to use the sufflok also,and is a very good blade. But I tried the Woodslicer from Highland Woodworking and it is without a doubt the best blade for resawing that I have used. But of course you have to use them bout and make up your own mind. Good Luck Larry in NW Ohio

Thanks, Larry and Merle 

Guy Kroll

>

Re: Best Blade for

Falberg saw Co

>If you're looking for the one blade that cuts everything straight; regardless of grain, cut depth, or tension setting-it would be the TW 1/2"-2TPI because it has the highest set angle available in the * under 1" * width range. It's very coarse and cuts fast. If you want a smoother cut you'll have to be more selective and find the minimum set angle for the job-at-hand (your workpiece). Is it 2" of Balsa or 18" of White Oak? The blade's set angle should vary widely depending on your project. Unless all your projects involve the same size and species of wood, you'll undoubtedly want a selection of blades. You'll want another selection of blades for contour cutting. If you buy the wrong blade by mistake, it's not that difficult to re-set them (hammer and tap each tooth alternately in your vise). Carbide teeth cut smooth for shallow cuts but drift badly in deep cuts. Understanding the relevance of set angles is ultimately the key to choosing the right blade BEFORE you attack your workpiece and you can read more about this subject in my soon-to-be-published article titled "Have You Hugged Your Bandsaw Today?" Film at 11:00...................

Like everything else, it depends on *LINK*

Bruce, a MN Galoot

>what you have for a saw, what you're cutting, and the type of cut you want.

I have a Delta 14", no riser, and a 1/2" 3 tpi Lenox Trimaster that I like very much. I also have a 1/2" Wood Slicer from Highland Hardware that I haven't put on my machine yet because I like the Trimaster so much.

Go here for some considerations:


Wood Central Bandsaw Blade Review

Re: Like everything else, it depends on

Falberg saw Co

>You're exactly right Bruce, these comparisons are confusing and ultimately meaningless if you don't first stipulate: "what you have for a saw, what you're cutting, and the type of cut you want." There are a few "universal truths" about machine dynamics; likewise there are some "universal truths" about blade dynamics; both of which can then be applied to wood species and graduated by "cut depth". Woodworkers might further ask themselves if they want to spend all day on one cut or resign themselves to a supplemental belt-sander operation- those other *judgement* calls. I don't believe there is any "best" brand name. They all have strengths and weaknesses that each woodworker has to factor into their decisions. My point to all this is that you can't get *optimal* results from any combination of saw OR blade until you understand the function of set angle as it relates to crabbing.