Hot rod chainsaws
#1
Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Scary you say?
Um
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nIbyezOUP0
I've got the 372xp. With a pro chain on it, it is one wood-cutting beast! Pro chain is a little grabbier, though--it doesn't have the anti-kickback rakers that consumer-grade chain does, but that means less mass in the chain to keep moving, and less friction in the kerf.
Jason
Jason Roehl in Lafayette, IN wrote:I've got the 372xp. With a pro chain on it, it is one wood-cutting beast! Pro chain is a little grabbier, though--it doesn't have the anti-kickback rakers that consumer-grade chain does, but that means less mass in the chain to keep moving, and less friction in the kerf.
Jason
Same here, with a 28" bar. My "small" saw is a 455 Rancher. Never any "pump" gas in my saws = no ethanol to rot the pipes or suck water out of the air, and the cylinders are misted when put up for storage. Since I'm only cutting hard woods, I use a 27/57* grind and chains (Bailies pro) are mic'd and balanced.
I usually run mine with the factory 20" bar, but I also have a 32" bar. I had rarely used the 32" bar--just a cut or two of the lowest part of the trunk when cleaning up a large, felled tree, but when we had a large oak come down a couple years ago, taking out about 7 other trees, I had opportunity to use the 32" bar more. It did not go well. I didn't think about needing to turn the flow rate of the automatic oiler up, as a result, the chain would get hot and dull quickly due to being set for the 20" bar.
Jason
Jason Roehl in Lafayette, IN wrote:I didn't think about needing to turn the flow rate of the automatic oiler up, as a result, the chain would get hot and dull quickly due to being set for the 20" bar.
Since I change saws rather than bars, I set my oilers to factory specs, 4 turns for the 28" and 2 for the 20". Haven't had any issues with bar/chain heat. I do check and de-bur the bars when needed, but that's pretty rare. I don't cheap-out on chain oil; Husky or equivalent "low-fling" only.