WoodCentral Forums

Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge

Hot rod chainsaws

Posts

Hot rod chainsaws

#1

Peter Martin

https://youtu.be/HVan6BEUvYs?si=OGdwW7L2YoAc8Zpn
https://www.vintagesleds.com/library/manuals/misc/Two-stroke%20Tuner's%20Handbook.pdf
https://xp20.ashrae.org/SupplementalFiles/PHVAC9/Fitting_Loss_Coefficients.pdf

Re: Hot rod chainsaws

#3

Jason Roehl in Lafayette, IN

I've got the 372xp.  With a pro chain on it, it is one wood-cutting beast!  Pro chain is a little grabbier, though--it doesn't have the anti-kickback rakers that consumer-grade chain does, but that means less mass in the chain to keep moving, and less friction in the kerf.

Jason

Re: Hot rod chainsaws

Edited #4
Jason Roehl in Lafayette, IN wrote:

I've got the 372xp.  With a pro chain on it, it is one wood-cutting beast!  Pro chain is a little grabbier, though--it doesn't have the anti-kickback rakers that consumer-grade chain does, but that means less mass in the chain to keep moving, and less friction in the kerf.

Jason

Same here, with a 28" bar.  My "small" saw is a 455 Rancher.  Never any "pump" gas in my saws = no ethanol to rot the pipes or suck water out of the air, and the cylinders are misted when put up for storage.  Since I'm only cutting hard woods, I use a 27/57* grind and chains (Bailies pro) are mic'd and balanced.

Re: Hot rod chainsaws

#5

Jason Roehl in Lafayette, IN

I usually run mine with the factory 20" bar, but I also have a 32" bar.  I had rarely used the 32" bar--just a cut or two of the lowest part of the trunk when cleaning up a large, felled tree, but when we had a large oak come down a couple years ago, taking out about 7 other trees, I had opportunity to use the 32" bar more.  It did not go well.  I didn't think about needing to turn the flow rate of the automatic oiler up, as a result,  the chain would get hot and dull quickly due to being set for the 20" bar.

Jason

Re: Hot rod chainsaws

#6
Jason Roehl in Lafayette, IN wrote:

 I didn't think about needing to turn the flow rate of the automatic oiler up, as a result,  the chain would get hot and dull quickly due to being set for the 20" bar.

Since I change saws rather than bars, I set my oilers to factory specs,  4 turns for the 28" and 2 for the 20".  Haven't had any issues with bar/chain heat.  I do check and de-bur the bars when needed, but that's pretty rare.  I don't cheap-out on chain oil; Husky or equivalent "low-fling" only.

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.