Big or Small Lathe

Do you still use the Logan for turning metal? If not, sell it and buy a wood turner. You don't need a very big one for the things that you will be turning.

John Foster wrote:

Would I still be  able to turn small pieces on this machine with the right chuck and tool rest?

SURE!   I just wrote a rather lengthy response and clicked "post reply" and it disappeared.   So I'll just leave it at that.  I'm still using my 30 yr. old General 260.

"You can turn small stuff on a big lathe but you can't turn big stuff on a small lathe."

Lathes are very simple machines and the electronics involved are neither complex nor hard to replace.  I suspect that a large majority of wood turners start on a small (or "midi") lathe and then upgrade as their skills and preferences advance.  Just be sure to get your grandkids into the shop and show them how to turn.  They start making stuff for Mom and the addiction will take hold.  They`'ll take it from there.

@Tom Gall,

Tom Gall wrote:

I just wrote a rather lengthy response and clicked "post reply" and it disappeared.

Ouch. Sorry that happened.  Did you get a blank screen or error?

Buy the best you can afford first that way you only buy once

Out of the many, there are a couple of primary parameters to consider.
One, as alluded to before, is you can small stuff on a big lathe but not on a small lathe if the piece is too big. I never turned a pen on my 20" General but it worked well even if it looked a bit silly. Also, you may find a good heavy big lathe has less vibration.
Just like for other things, it is important to consider what you want to do with it. If you want to turn largish bowls, especially if wet and out-of-balance, you want a lathe that offers slow speeds such as less than say, 400 RPM. The General 160s, IIRC, have a minimum speed of 650 RPM which can be too fast for large bowls. Too fast with an unbalanced blanks will cause the lathe to excessively vibrate or jump all over the shop.
If you turn on a lathe with variable-speed, especially electronic variable speed, you will not want to be without it. 
My 20" General 260 VFD is 30 years old and no electronics problems. Also, the electronic Variable-frequency box is a general purpose device so it can be replaced with another if it fails. I didn't buy a Nova DVR which was a new model at the time I got the General because I was concerned about the integrated proprietary headstock and electronic drive circuitry. In hindsight, it probably would have been OK, the DVRs have displayed good reliability.  There have been cases with cheaper lathes, especially min-lathes, being rendered useless because of electronic parts being unavailable. I've seen posts about some General International models (GI is now gone) and some Busy Bee Craftex models with brushless DC motors having this problem.
Canadian General, the maker of the 160 is out of business but things like tool rests, bearings, banjo (Oneway sells one), can be replaced. It is unlikely the headstock, tailstock or bed will break.
You pays your money and you takes your chance when you buy anything.

admin wrote:

@Tom Gall,

Tom Gall wrote:

I just wrote a rather lengthy response and clicked "post reply" and it disappeared.

Ouch. Sorry that happened.  Did you get a blank screen or error?

Neither.  I just clicked the Post Reply button and it totally disappeared (I don't see that button right now).  On my second response I found the Submit button and that worked.  I guess it's a terminology problem on my part.  I assumed Post Reply would .... post my reply!  The Submit button was under ATTACHMENTS and I didn't think that was applicable.  Maybe it should be "Submit my reply" or located directly under the Reply box.

Sorry Peter, but Post Reply is a very poor name for a button that does not post the reply when clicked. Should be something like "Reply in New Window" perhaps some shorter form. My other thought is whether or not it is needed and just creates confusion.
Why is the Post Reply in a different place, apparently at the top of the first post only - shouldn't the Reply options be together?

Peter Martin wrote:

@Tom Gall,

I know this can be a bit confusing, but it works much like most other forum software. There’s a Post Reply link that opens a separate page for replying, and a Quick Reply editor you can use right on the current page without loading anything new.

It sounds like you typed your response in the Quick Reply editor, then noticed the Post Reply button and expected it to submit your post. Instead, it opens a new reply page, which is why it seemed confusing. Hopefully that explanation makes sense—admittedly, it’s a bit tricky to explain clearly.

If it happens again, just use your browser’s Back button. Your post should still be there.

Peter, I think part of the problem was that I clicked the "Quote" button on John's message (just as I've done here).  All the previous posts show up in reverse order (?) below and there is no "Quick Reply" button to be found.  I still don't know how I found the "Post Reply" button on my original posting.
Don't mind me .... I'm technology challenged !!!  Hopefully I will remember the next time.

Bill Howatt wrote:

My 20" General 260 VFD is 30 years old and no electronics problems.

Hi Bill ... I suppose we might have the same machine.  I haven't had to replace anything and it still works great.  I did add a link-belt to replace the old, slightly worn belt, but left the original in place in the headstock (taped it out of the way).  Mine has the 4" riser blocks on the headstock, tailstock, and banjo.  I guess General wanted to use up their old castings.  Also, the electronics box is on the front of the lathe below the headstock and facing the tailstock.  I've seen pictures of some other 260s with that box on the backside of the lathe. Yours?

Hi Tom,
Glad to hear from another General 260 owner.
My VFD is in a box on the backside of the the lathe. Given that it is near a wall and bolted to the floor, it makes wanting to get inside it a chore. Fortunately, that really hasn't been necessary other than when I reworked the Start/Stop/Speed Control pot into a box on the end of the cable so it was more convenient to operate.
My lathe had the Start/Stop switches on the headstock pedestal facing the tailstock. I didn't like reaching down and didn't like that if I had an emergency I was getting into the line of fire to push the Stop. Also didn't like reaching for the speed pot to the left and I thought it was prudent to have the pot beside the Start switch on my remote box so it might keep me from turning it on at full-speed setting when I shouldn't.
Hope I'm not boring you but the Start/Stop buttons have 240V on them which I didn't want to carry to the remote so I made my own Start/Stop relay circuit that is controlled by about 12V from my remote box. This is why I had to get into the electronics box to make a few connection mods.
I don't think this was something I'd be overly concerned about but being a bit of an electronics nut, it seemed like a fun project and I did have full junk box for parts.
Mine has headstock and tailstock castings for the 20", no riser blocks. I remember seeing them in the General catalog, though.
It's been a great trouble-free machine. I still use the original belt and thought if it needed replacement, I'd do the Link-Belt trick. The extra expense compared to the work of fooling with the spindle would be well worth it.

Hi Bill,
Yes, it has been a trouble-free machine.  Your remote start/stop box is a great safety addition ... something I thought of doing - but never did.  I don't turn much anymore (age & mobility) so probably not worth the effort at this point.  I turn mostly smaller stuff ... boxes, ornaments, etc., so nothing "exciting" has happened in decades!  
The only downside to the link-belt (on my lathe) is that is very difficult to slide it onto the largest pulley - very tight fit between the casting and the pulley.  Besides, I can't remember when I last moved it off the 2nd pulley for the smaller stuff I turn.  It may be different with your 20" casting.