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A tip and a tool

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A tip and a tool

Edited #1

The tip first. For many years I have used a scribble of candle wax on the soles of my hand planes, and it has always been like changing up a gear. That is not the tip. A few months ago I decided to try an oiled rag in a can, ala Paul Sellers. No actual can, but a plastic jar, and a rolled up microfibre cloth with mineral spirits. I like this! It is going up another gear. That is not the tip. For the past month I have been building bedside tables (three of them), with quite a bit of dovetailing. When chopping dovetails the chisel life is extended with a rub over the oiler. What I can add is that the mineral spirits does not affect the glue adhesion. That is still not the tip! Okay, so here is the tip: I decided to wipe the teeth of the dovetail saw and crosscut saw on the oiler .... man, what a surprise ... the saws slid through the wood effortlessly. And less effort also translates to greater accuracy. 

Tip.jpg

The saws are both thin plate saws, one 16 tpi rip and the other 15 tpi crosscut, both of which I made. 
Now for the tool. It is cheap, $20, the Compass Rose Vise Block.  Quick to set up and easy to use. Self-explanatory ...

Tool.jpg

Regards from Perth
Derek

Re: A tip and a tool

#2

Derek,

I use 3-in-1 oil in my rag in a can. Wouldn’t mineral spirits evaporate a bit quickly?  Do you have to recharge it fairly often?

I go back and forth between the rag in a can and Gulf Wax Paraffin on my planes. Wax seems to last a wee bit longer, but the rag in a can just sits there and I can swipe my plane on it more easily than picking up the bar of wax. 

I think I saw Brian Holcombe wipe his chisels on an oiled rag in a can years ago when he was mortising. I tried it and it seemed to work well, but I don’t seem to have made it a habit yet.

Re: A tip and a tool

#3

Gary, the "mineral spirits" I use is actually Johnson's Baby Oil, which is largely mineral spirits (this also does a great job of "melting" green compound into leather as a strop). It does not evaporate. Smells good as well :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: A tip and a tool

#5

Mineral oils are non-polymerizing oils, so spontaneous combustion is not a concern.  Polymerization (drying) releases heat - it is very slow oxidation (combustion is fast oxidation).  Seed oils generally dry, mineral oils do not.  If Bill were still around he could tell you why, I can't.

Derek - that is an ingenious tip, I never would have thought of it.  The whole series in your post are excellent tips :D 

I will try it, both with thinned mineral oil and also with some kerosene (heavy paint thinner basically).  A friend of mine uses kerosene to lubricate his dial indicators and micrometers.  Says oil is too heavy, kero is just right.  Guy's been a machinist since I was in high school, so I figure he knows what is what.

My initial reaction would be a little skepticism about the mineral oil not interfering with glue, but with a bit of thought I expect you're right.  Tiny amounts coming off a saw wouldn't be enough to be a problem, especially not in a dovetail - strong joint even without the glue.

Re: A tip and a tool

#7

I assumed "spirits" in OZland were different than the ones I use to clean brushes. But somehow, I managed to associate your reference with turpentine, of which I do like the fragrance. 

Brain farts are growing more prolific.

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