For what it's worth. IMHO.
It's the one machine you really need to get right. The most critical factor in determining the accuracy of every job.
It's a big subject though and honestly there are a lot of second rate machines out there.
Having used flip up table combination machines I would suggest this. Don't go there. Inaccuracy problems built in.
If you asked, I've got an opportunity to buy an old 12" Oliver 166 I would interrupt you and say buy it. Snap it up. 16" ? Even better.
20" ? That's lucky bstard territory.
I don't like wedge bed's. When they go out of co planar your buggered. End of story.
I do like parallelogram adjustable Joiners.
Properly engineered with good flat tables, this is the way to go. SCMI uses this system.
Don't buy without checking the tables with an engineers straight edge. If the tables are flat but not co planar don't panic. The eccentric bearings allow you to dial it back in. Learn how to do it and you can get a perfectly good machine cheap because the
previous owner assumed the worse.
I don't have any recent experience with Taiwanese made brands but worth checking out. Try before you buy. Surface plane and joint two decent lengths of 2x4 and put them together. Best acid test of accuracy.
You can do a lot, even with an 8" wide bed.
The longer the infeed table the better.
Far to many woodworker's including pro, don't know how to adjust jointers properly.
Blunt blades destroy accuracy. Co planar is critical. Your wasting time and money if you don't have it.
Fences. A good fence is vital. Far to many fences aren't stiff enough. If you can bend the fence when it's locked with your hands ?
Not a good sign.
Insert or knife ? Your choice. I'm a knife man.
Good luck. There's never been a better time to buy good used machines in this global depression. Cash talks.
Cheers 🍻
What do I need to know about Jointers Maurice ?
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