Table saw fix

Seems like a decent product.  I use a long piece of 3/4 inch plywood, 5 inches wide, with a T-track on top.  I then use two Jessem stock guides to do pretty much the same thing.  Clamp them on my fence and measure from the blade.  This has worked very well for me for years now.

It depends on what you are doing and it does not negate the need to ensure your original fence is properly aligned since you are just clamping this fence on to it.  It also shows, in addition to the add-on fence, feather boards for hold down (anti-kickback) and another in the table top for registering the work against the fence. No argument about those.
I can't say I really need a higher fence. A longer fence can be good for large sheet goods but it, according to modern wisdom, it is not what you want past the blade when ripping. In this case, the safest fence is a fence that stops at the gullet of the leading edge of the blade. This is enough to register the cut at the proper distance from the blade and since there is no fence touching the work from the body of blade to the rear of the table, it eliminates pinching and kickback. With the sliding European style fence you have the extra length for support in front of the blade, not after it. I think this fence could be setup in this configuration. 
Have a look at:
Four Advantages of a European Style Table Saw Fence (lagunatools.com)