Tools for a Maker Space

I had typed a reply last week and for some reason it did not post.  Could have been me.  Did again.  Hit wrong button but was able to back up and use Submit.  Was busy and did not have time to retype and figured someone would respond.  This topic came up at the Lancaster Coffee Hour a few weeks ago.  My choices for a bare basic tool setup would be: diamond parting tool, 3/4 or 1” spindle roughing gouge, 3/8” spindle gouge with fingernail grind, 1/2” or 5/8” bowl gouge with 60 degree bevel and convex wing grind, perhaps a scraper, round nose or left grind French Curve.  Introduction should include how to use the Wolverine and Varigrind sharpening setup.

Mike Brazeau wrote:

I had typed a reply last week and for some reason it did not post.  Could have been me.  Did again.  Hit wrong button but was able to back up and use Submit.  Was busy and did not have time to retype and figured someone would respond.  This topic came up at the Lancaster Coffee Hour a few weeks ago.  My choices for a bare basic tool setup would be: diamond parting tool, 3/4 or 1” spindle roughing gouge, 3/8” spindle gouge with fingernail grind, 1/2” or 5/8” bowl gouge with 60 degree bevel and convex wing grind, perhaps a scraper, round nose or left grind French Curve.  Introduction should include how to use the Wolverine and Varigrind sharpening setup.

I'd agree with that. I'd add a couple skews and a square nose tool or bedan. Look ahead to phase two, with additional bowl gouges, hollowing tools, parting gouges...etc. plus any specialized tools you need for your avenues of interest.

Ellis

Basic starter set that I recommend:

• spindle roughing gouge

• 1/8" parting tool - not a diamond shaped one

• 3/4" skew - not an oval one

• 3/8" spindle gouge

• 1/2" bowl gouge - 40-40 grind (my preference)

• 3/4" or 1" round scraper that has the left-hand side ground way back for sweeping scrapes inside of a bowl

Additional tools that start to be more special purpose:

• 1/2" bowl gouge "bottom feeder"

• 3/8" beading and parting tool

• 3/8" bedan

• 3/4" or 1" square end scraper for box making

Joe Fleming wrote:

Basic starter set that I recommend:

• spindle roughing gouge

• 1/8" parting tool - not a diamond shaped one

• 3/4" skew - not an oval one

• 3/8" spindle gouge

• 1/2" bowl gouge - 40-40 grind (my preference)

• 3/4" or 1" round scraper that has the left-hand side ground way back for sweeping scrapes inside of a bowl

Additional tools that start to be more special purpose:

• 1/2" bowl gouge "bottom feeder"

• 3/8" beading and parting tool

• 3/8" bedan

• 3/4" or 1" square end scraper for box making

If I think back to my first efforts and struggles with a bowl gouge 20+ years ago and about 40 years after I first turned in High School shop, I would find the 40/40 grind as a newbie very challenging.  I have played with it and the major benefit I have found is entry cuts at the rim on natural edge bowls.  Once down to the transition area I go back to my 55-60 degree bowl gouge.

Hey Mike,  The engineer in me likes 40/40 because of the physics of the tool.  When moving a bowl gouge, there are two force vectors at the cutting edge:  one that is parallel to the surface (riding the bevel) and one that is perpendicular to the surface (compressing the wood fibers, and possibly leading to chatter marks).  The two forces are inversely related.  The force vectors for 40/40 are greater parallel to the wood and less perpendicular to the wood.  Once you cross the 45 degree mark, the force vectors flip and you are pushing into the wood (perpendicular) more than along the surface.  This then necessitates that your leading hand has to simultaneously guide the tool into the cut.  Effectively, both hands are pushing the tool.  A person's ability to keep the bevel running true when both hands are steering is considerable more difficult than when only needing the back hand.

Yes, I do require a "bottom feeder" for deeper bowls.

My statics professor (no recollection of his name) would be proud  

I suggest that only After a person is able to handle a Skew properly would they be capable of a Bedan.  That is a short bladed skew and with my 35 years of learning I still can say; it takes an extra bit of concentration to operate a Bedan properly.  P.