Wow a new TS

RE: whether .003" is important, you didn't mention the blade height at which you measured this discrepancy. If it is at full height (~3") it will be less important than if it is at 1" height for most situations, but why not adjust it if you can? 

To illustrate,  I just glued up a table top made of two 20" wide boards. If I had ripped both boards on your saw, and if your measured error was at the 3" height, this would have produced a depression of less than 1/32" at the glue line. If the error was measured at 1", the depression would be more on the order of .06" or about 1/16". That would be unacceptable to me. I jointed the edges with a hand plane and made sure they were perfectly square before gluing, but if you're in the habit of glueline ripping, it would likely be an issue for you at some point.

I've never seen the inside of the left-tilt model, but usually there is a bolt, often with locknut, that you can advance or retract to stop the tilt mechanism at the desired location. This should be evident if you remove the top to make the adjustment. It may not be accessible otherwise.

Hope this helps. Let us know how it works out.

Ellis

Thanks

It was with the blade at full height so ~3 inches up.  The bottom of the blade had the clearance.  I don't think I will worry about it right now.  I looked for a bolt and jam nut to adjust.  The only one I could find was for the 45 degree mark.  

I really don't want to take the top off unless I have to.

Mike

Yeah, reattached the top is yet another alignment exercise. I wonder what the fix is?

Since your 45*s "dead on"  leave the top/cabinet joints alone.  The adjustment you need to make is with the tilt trunion's top stop.  This is an easy adjustment.  You will find a hex bolt head and a stop nut above the top of the trunion gear againt which a small tab make contact.  You can see this on the right side of the cabinet as you open the tub-door.  All you need is an adjustiable wrench.  Back the tilt 10* or so, loosen the hex nut, then adjust the hex bolt in or out until your blade is also dead-nuts at 0*.  Finally, re-tighten the nut to lock the bolt in position.

Jim DeLaney, Austintown, Ohio wrote:

Mike L.:  It was with the blade at full height so ~3 inches up.  The bottom of the blade had the clearance.  I don't think I will worry about it right now.  I looked for a bolt and jam nut to adjust.  The only one I could find was for the 45 degree mark.  
I really don't want to take the top off unless I have to.
Mike

Maybe loosen the bolts on one end and insert shims?  Shouldn't take much - maybe one layer of beer can metal?  Otherwise, unless you're making a lot of full depth cuts, I'd leave it alone.

OTOH, was the measurement made with only one blade?  Could be a 'blade plate problem.'

Yes, I agree with Jim. A couple shims will fix the situation, but you may have to re-calibrate the 45º stop, too. 
And while we're talking about shimming tables, sometimes you may need to "supertune" your tablesaw by shimming either the front or back end of the table to keep the blade from burning on 45º cuts. 

Ellis

Mark Mandell wrote:

Since your 45*s "dead on"  leave the top/cabinet joints alone.  The adjustment you need to make is with the tilt trunion's top stop.  This is an easy adjustment.  You will find a hex bolt head and a stop nut above the top of the trunion gear againt which a small tab make contact.  You can see this on the right side of the cabinet as you open the tub-door.  All you need is an adjustiable wrench.  Back the tilt 10* or so, loosen the hex nut, then adjust the hex bolt in or out until your blade is also dead-nuts at 0*.  Finally, re-tighten the nut to lock the bolt in position.

BINGO. I just took the side cover off and found the stop.  After playing with it a bit I have it set dead on.  The 45 degree didn't need another adjustment.  

Now everything is all set and ready for me to start my next adventure of making cabinets.  

Thanks

I took the Beismeyer style fence off my saw and set it on the floor beside the saw.  When I put it back on one of the faces of the fence would catch on things on the table.  (Where wings joined and even the miter slot.)  Looked at it carefully and apparently the side had slipped down less than a 1/16".  I used a clamp and rubber mallet to move it back up and all is fine.  (Now to find the shop gremlin that stepped on it or dropped something on it.)

Barry Irby wrote:

I took the Beismeyer style fence off my saw and set it on the floor beside the saw.  When I put it back on one of the faces of the fence would catch on things on the table.  (Where wings joined and even the miter slot.)  Looked at it carefully and apparently the side had slipped down less than a 1/16".  I used a clamp and rubber mallet to move it back up and all is fine.  (Now to find the shop gremlin that stepped on it or dropped something on it.)

Thanks I will look at that.  I adjusted the side wings and the side table so there is no lip anymore.  This took care of most of the catch.  I then slid it towards the blade and it caught on the blade side of the miter slot.  I just replaced the little pads on the bottom of the handle to give it a bit more lift.  It seems to have fixed the catch.  I will check the side of the fence to see if they got whacked around during all the moving.  No shop gremlins here I sent them all to VA for a vacation(-;