Table saw problems

Re: Table saw problems

Yes I have checked it with a long straight edge. It’s not flat. 

Re: Table saw problems

Poor quality for sure. I didn’t know any better and did not check. 

Re: Table saw problems

Put a flat piece of something like MDF, particle board, whatever that is flat on the table beside the blade so it covers the hills and valleys on the table. Use this as the table reference for your square. Set the blade to 90 and also measure it with your digital angle tool. If they should agree - is your square, square?  Move to the other side of the blade and check that it is also 90, if it isn't the blade is bent or you have a severely warped table.

Ryobi isn't known for high quality and if your saw is one of the portable, often direct drive blade ones then they are usually not the best, they are made to do quick and nasty cuts on job-sites where portability is great and they aren't making close tolerance furniture and the like.

Tables should certainly be flat but little undulations only really affect the cutting of small pieces that might align with a sloped portion of the table. Also, it is generally considered to be dangerous to cut anything smaller than about 12" on a table-saw.

Re: Table saw problems

Anyone starting out needs to decide on what they need their machines to do. A small jobsite saw will be limited, compared to even a contractor's saw, when it comes to its ability to rip through heavy lumber. If you plan to build substantial furniture, starting with 6/4 and 8/4 lumber, you might be better off starting with a bigger, more powerful machine, say, with at least a 1 1/2HP induction motor. The universal motors on those small saws don't have nearly the power you need for dense hardwoods and thicker stock. Your mileage may vary, of course.

All tablesaws have some sort of stop bolt limiting the blade tilt. If you can find this, you should be able to adjust the squareness of the blade to the table. As Bill said, an auxiliary table top will give you a flat reference surface, but it will surely prevent you from using the stock fence and miter gauge, so you'll have to cobble together another fence arrangement, and figure out how to jig up for crosscuts. All of this is pointing to a tough decision, namely to consider a larger, more accurate saw.

Ellis Walentine, Host

Re: Table saw problems

If the table is not flat, you cannot get the blade 90 degrees to table on both sides of the table at the same time. But you can normally get the table to one side of the blade.

In the early 80's I bought a new craftsman table saw. Top was not flat and miter gauge was loose fit to miter slot. Table saw was about 0.040" low in the center. This was a right tilt saw. Learned to set blade at 90 degrees to left side of blade for cross cuts and 90 degrees to right side for rip cuts. Not perfect but was able to make stuff for many years. The only thing you can't do well is dado cuts.

Manufactures have been down value engineering for many years. My dad bought a craftsman table in the early 50's. Table is still flat and miter gauge has good fit to miter slot. It was the reason I purchased the Craftsman table saw. In the early 80's I purchased a Powermatic Model 26 shaper. This is a light industrial machine. Table was not flat. Table was low in the center. This was during the period Powermatic was transitioning manufacturing to Taiwan. After some complaints to Powermatic and dealer got replacement table. Table looked like it came off a show machine. Still have the machine.

Re: Table saw problems

As I just mentioned in another thread, I would find a 9" contractor saw, or cabinet saw, in the 60 dollar range.  Rockwell 9 inch, with cast iron top.  Unless i missed the point and this is about portables.

Re: Table saw problems

So I had a look online. Actually a lot of these are going for 250, maybe post COVID rush on indoor activities. Did find this under "crappy saw". So long as the blade is the bent part, and the arbour has low runout, should be ok, with a few hours work. But it proves concept. That is about 15 dollars US. So live a little, spend 3X that much.

I recently bought a 3 hp Delta Unisaw for $300 including a Biesemeyer style fence.  Found it on Offer Up.

The only table saw I'd touch is a sawstop. You guys please know and use all safety measures with your saws. I have seen so many youtubers playing Russian roulette with the way they make cuts on their table saws.

I think I spot the problem, you are touching the table saw?

Added later 08 min 46 s:

LDR210 wrote:

Table saw problems

I am a new woodworker.

I have a digital angle reader and it reads 90 degrees but I put a square up to it and it’s off on the other side.

I understand I need to just buy another one but I was wondering if there was a work around so I could still use it.

Do the flip cut method where you do a crosscut flip one end, and then see where the gap is. So if you cut to 91 degrees, when you flip it the error is an obvious 2 degree gap. Make adjustments until there isn't a gap in future cuts.  Either reset the needle or if it reads 91.25 just let that be your guide.

For crosscuts, try a crosscut sled.  Do not get distracted by crazy complex approaches.  This is one of those things "creators" like to complicate.  It depends where your saw is out, but a sled is it's own little world and may correct for your machine's problems.  I rarely assemble direct from the table saw after rips, but one should be able to.  If you get an off angle, it may be possible to allow the two pieces to net out when you flip them for the joint.  Or use a plane to joint them, but that is a whole other can of worms.  There is a workaround for anything, but it comes down to what you have in the shop