suggestion for a food safe finish that will/may not darken the wood as much as Walnut oil

Re: suggestion for a food safe finish that will/may not darken the wood as much as Walnut oil

John -- All finishes sold in the USA are 'food safe' once fully cured. (Someone here will post a link to the report from the federal government that reaches that conclusion.) So, if I needed a clear finish that didn't darken the wood as much as walnut oil, I'd probably go with Deft Clear Wood Finish (which is a brushing lacquer). It is a film finish that is easy to apply and is fairly durable. You might prefer one of the water-based lacquers. They alter the color of the wood even less than Deft. However, Deft 'warms' the appearance of the wood slightly. Water-based lacquers tend to make the wood look cold. Deft slightly yellows the wood, while the water-based lacquers give the wood a slight blue cast. I prefer the look of Deft and avoid using water-based finishes for that reason.

Another option is pure tung oil. (Lots of finishes have tung oil in their names. Some of those might even have tung oil as one of their ingredients. You want the real thing.) Like walnut oil, tung oil is a hardening oil. I don't use it because it is harder to find and costs more than walnut oil.

Note: While all finishes are food safe once fully cured, that doesn't prevent some people from being reluctant to use an item that is finished with anything but a finish that could be eaten straight out of the can or bottle. Arguing with them seldom does any good.

HTH

Re: suggestion for a food safe finish that will/may not darken the wood as much as Walnut oil

Thanks David, I have a can of Tong oil, very very old, it may still be good,  I have some clear spray cans but I think I will hunt down the Deft  as I have heard it recommended before.

Re: suggestion

John, As stated "all finishes are "food safe" when cured.  Since piece will be subject to  getting wet,  I suggest you pass on film-forming finishes.  Lacquer, shellac, even polyurethane, will all allow water to get by resulting white patches followed by flakes being shed.  For treenware (bowls, cutting boards, spoons,etc) I only use Howard's  Butcherblock conditioner which is medical grade mineral oil cooked with carnauba wax.  Rub it in, then wipe off the excess. 

Re: suggestion

Or simply use pure mineral.  Doesn't harden/cure, so each washing with mild dish soap will remove a little.  After several washings, when the wood feels a bit rough simply apply more mineral oil.

I wipe on a wet coat of mineral oil with a small square of clean cloth, wait a few minutes, wipe on again, wait a few more minutes, then with a clean paper towel wipe off all the excess.

Re: suggestion

Osmo Top Oil is food safe and doesn’t darken most woods I’ve used it on as much as the options mentioned. If you follow directions you use so little of it and it’s pretty much rubbed in. I like it. It seems expensive, but if you follow directions, a little goes a long way. It’s basically plant oils and waxes. The Top Oil is designed for kitchen ware.

Re: suggestion for a food safe finish that will/may not darken the wood as much as Walnut oil

You could always go with no finish. Richard Raffan has commented that no finish is a very good option for many items. If the item looks darker when wiped with distilled water (safer than tap as no minerals present that may discolor), then it will likely look darker with pretty much any finish. Even an unfinished item will develop some sort of patina after years of service, especially one that will see the repeated contact with food like what you are describing.

I'm thinking no finish may well be the way to go.

My best guess.