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Reintroduction

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Reintroduction

#1

karl jr

Reintroduction

Hello everyone,


 

About a decade ago I hung out here on the woodturning forum (I think my username was ktkjr), and I learned a lot from you folks. My woodturning activity sort of came to a grinding halt because of, well, life. At the time I was turning boxes and bowls, as well as treen like spatulas, spurtles, and honey dippers. I actually made a bit of money selling the treen at a local gallery. Never could get them to bite on the boxes. I had a lot of fun doing it, especially since it was using my Dad's Stubby.


 

My turning itch has come back with a vengeance, so here I am. I got my hands on a neglected Jet 1014, and am in the process of freeing up the stuck centers and removing surface rust and stains from the ways and quill. All I've used so far in the restoration are several applications of penetrating oil and a scrubbing pad. I'll switch to steel wool and continue with the penetrating oil, and then start tapping and lightly whacking on the centers. I'm also building a stand for the mini, based on a Moravian workbench, mostly with hand tools except for cutting stuff to length.


 

Anyway, I'm back!

Karl


 


Re: Reintroduction

#2

Re: Reintroduction

Welcome back!


Re: Reintroduction

#3

Re: Reintroduction

Sounds like fun! 

Both centers stuck? I like PB Blaster, but sometimes a bit of heat from a torch on one of the parts can loosen things.

If you have badly rusted parts I've had good luck with Evapo-Rust, works best overnight by immersion but I've brushed it on or put a cloth soaked with it on a rusty surface. I've salvaged rusted mechanical things here on the farm that were otherwise scrap! You could probably immerse the entire tailstock by putting it in a plastic bag first.

That's a perfectly respectable lathe - I like them especially for portability, demos and such, or when I need an extra lathe in the shop. Perfect for small bowls, boxes, and spindles like these.

JKJ


Re: Reintroduction

#4

karl jr

Re: Reintroduction

So far I've used Liquid Wrench, applied whenever I think of it. Are PB Blaster or Evapo-Rust substantively more effective?


 

Here's a look at the mini as I recieved it.

The ways are pretty much done now. Not by any means shiny, and there are still some stains (tannin stains?). If the penetrating oil doesn't work on the centers, I'll try heat. The quill is nearly new looking, now, and I have not yet touched the tool rest.


 

KTK


Re: Reintroduction

#5

Re: Reintroduction

>>> So far I've used Liquid Wrench, applied whenever I think of it. Are PB Blaster or Evapo-Rust substantively more effective?

I don’t know about Liquid Wrench vs PB Blaster.  

Evapo-Rust is for “dissolving” surface rust.  I don’t know how well it penetrates.  I last used it on PTO coupler on a tractor brush cutter after the coupler had slipped off a block and was buried in the dirt and leaves for maybe 8 years.  Every part was rusted, spring, ball bearings, rotating parts frozen.  Aftet disassembly and overnight soaking even the rusted ball bearings were smooth and shiny, coupler has worked fine for the last few years.


Re: Reintroduction

#6

Re: Reintroduction

As John said, Evaporust is not a penetrating oil. It is a rust removal/conversion liquid. You put individual parts in it and it usually does a good job of removing/converting rust. Do NOT forget about it for multiple days/weeks and let the evaporust evaporate with the piece still in it. That is not pretty. If you have a marine supply store, you might rather use brass wool or bronze wool rather than steel wool. Those wools generally will not scratch a steel surface. Also, if you use them on bright work, you don't have the problem of little bits of steel wool breaking off and rusting overnight.

Re: Reintroduction

#7

George Balock

Re: Reintroduction

That’s a good ad for never leaving anything in the Morse taper for long.  I agree with the PB Blaster advice.  It works great. Good luck with your restoration and welcome back.


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