Made these guide blocks in response to another post. I had installed after market bearings which were much better then stock, but, when cutting green wood, the saw dust and sap would get rolled onto the blade. The sap-swarf-blade thickness was more then the set causing heat to farther weld the mixture to the blade. Stopping to scrape blade and bearings, while not all that difficult, slowed work flow. I don't have many hours on these blocks, but so far I'm impressed. Next set I think I'll put ingrain to the blade. Any input pro or con would be appreciated. I see I can buy Cool Block material, so I'm wondering how that stacks up to something like Lignum Vitae? Thoughts?
>>> I see I can buy Cool Block material, so I'm wondering how that stacks up to something like Lignum Vitae? Thoughts?
Clifton,
My older delta 14" had metal guides like that, one horizontal and one angled. I replaced them with cool blocks which worked well. Then I made guides from lignum vitae (end grain towards blade) and used those for years. The self-lubricating quality of that wood may have been a plus. I found the wooded guides good for very small blades too - just embed the 1/8 or 1/4" blade pinched lightly between the wood blocks.
I don't use them now on my 18" rikon, but use the stock bearings. I do cut a LOT of green wood (https://youtu.be/4Rbdas-jtD0) and almost never have a buildup on the guides. Maybe adding extra brushes helps. I've been adding stiff brushes to the tires, especially to the underside of the upper wheel and the upper part of the lower wheel.
I do get occasional buildup on the sides of the blade in some conditions. I've thought about adding brushes to the blades themselves but haven't tried that yet.
For years I've been cleaning the sides of the blade with a length of small thin-wall brass tubing, probably 1/4" square. I do this with the saw running and it only takes a few seconds. I hold the brass tubing so the end is perpendicular to the side of the blade and move it forward and back while pressing into the blade. The end of the square tubing instantly peels off any buildup on the blade. Since the tubing is brass if I run it into the teeth nothing is damaged. I have no problem holding on to the brass safely but someone unsure could devise a handle or perhaps use the miter gauge to help support it. This type of brass tubing is available at hobby shops.
This winter I hope to make another, shorter bandsaw video covering a few things like sharpening the blade. Maybe I could add this cleaning technique.
BTW, I do the a similar thing with my Woodmizer sawmill when sawing sappy pine. Even with the constant liquid lube the sap buildup on the blade is swift and terrible! In that case I stand behind the saw and hold a long screwdriver against the sides of the blade, keeping well away from the teeth of course. I don't like to mill pine but over the last 15 years I've used this technique many, many times and don't consider it the least bit risky. However, like many other things in life, anyone who feels this is unsafe shouldn't do it!
I put Carters on my Jet 18 and have been quite happy. I don't cut much wet wood so haven't had the gooping problem. I did try some "band lube" stick once (just once!) and had to take everything apart to clean that crap off the rollers.
Years ago I sprayed the blade with Pam nonstick cooking spray (interweb suggestion?)... Half a squirt and the blade jumped off the wheels, took the better part of an hour to clean off blade, wheels bearings etc... So far I'm liking the blocks. I think I'll try adding brushes to the wheels as per Johns suggestion. No issues cutting green sappy wood, it's just nice not having to stop so often to scrap the bearings and blade.
I used to make DIY lignum vitae guide blocks for my 12" Delta bandsaw, and liked how they worked, but eventually replaced the upper and lower guides with a single bearing Carter Stabilizer. My 18" SC bandsaw came equipped with triple bearing guides top and bottom, which I prefer. One advantage of lignum guides, however, is that you cannot accidentally squash the set out of the blade's teeth, as you can by setting bearings or steel guide blocks too close together or the rear guide too far back.
I've also used PAM for blade lubrication, but prefer using a block of beeswax, or even a paraffin or IKEA polystyrene candle.
