Martin Sabin and coloring

Re: Martin Sabin and coloring

Don't know about Mr. Sabin or his method, but I find it risky to apply color to raw wood prior to some kind of a sealer because of varying densities in wood; some more than others.  Turned item are ofter subject to "compression" of the wood fibers from the tools' bevel.  It won't show up, even after sanding, until something like stain is applied.

That said I doubt anything you do, other than re-sanding and starting over, will do anything but make the situation worse.

It would help here, if you took a couple of cell-phone pics to show us  how deep the ca-ca you're in is.

Re: Martin Sabin and coloring

Things are not so bad: I more or less started over  (not down to the bare wood though -- left much color but got rid of the streaks) Then I re-colored with the Hampsheen but this time went back to what for me is the tried and true oil and shellac. It's more or less some variant of a French polish. It's really quite beautiful now. I want it to be really superb for an upcoming -next Thursday --artists group critique at our turning club. So I plan to just keep adding alternate coats of oil and shellac. this fellow, Sabin, uses multiple (like 10) coats of spray-on lacquer (right from a can) for a glass like finish. That's what I was after. What I'm getting now is really nice. I'll try to send a picture after a few more applications.

Ah, HA!

Looked him up and shows him applying sealer BEFORE the color.  That would tend to prevent the streaks you mention.  Note too, he applies with a bit of cloth or paper towel rather than slopping on a bunch of liquid with a brush, and "builds" his tone gradually. 

Not familiar with the colorants he's using/selling so you millage may vary.

Re: Martin Sabin and coloring

Re: Martin Sabin and coloring

In the video I watched, he definitely applied the colors first. In fact, he actually starts with black and sands most of it off. Then he starts with various reddish colors. After that he applies a drying oil and then sanding sealer. We must have watched different videos. But then, what's this guy up to?

Martin Sabin-Smith uses different techniques to achieve different goals

Eliot,  Martin Sabin-Smith uses various techniques to achieve various goals.  Both approaches are valid depending on the needs of the end product.  Color first, typically dark, sanded back, purposely highlights the density variations in the wood (often curly or burly), with later colors staying on top of the denser areas.  If he wishes more uniform coloring, he applies the sanding sealer first.  Not rocket science.  Looking forward to seeing your new artwork on Thursday.  ...GG

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Re: Martin Sabin-Smith uses different techniques to achieve different goals

Well explained, Gary. But the question remains: if one were to start with color first with his Hampshire Sheen product, would a water based sealer(that I attempted) be a bad idea to apply afterwards? Sabin uses cellulose sealer. Is there something about cellulose that's more compatible with his colors than the water based sealer that I tried? I got streaks with the water based sealer.

Re: Martin Sabin and coloring

Trying to send an image

Re: Martin Sabin and coloring

Here a photo while it's still on the lathe.

Re: Martin Sabin and coloring

Here's a photo while still on the lathe with about five coats of oil and shellac.

that's gorgeous, Eliot!

Looks like a Phil Brown flare with color!  Outstanding curl and color and shine.  Can't wait to see it in person.  

the proof is in the pudding

Eliot,  You re-energized a water-based dye with a water-based sealer, so the answer for those two products is a "yes".

Cellulose sanding sealers, such as Mylands, are lacquer based, and they don't tend to reactivate water-based dyes as quickly, but they can still affect the surface with significant wiping.  The trick is to get them on quickly and gently.  Many people spray over color because that can seal without the physical abuse.  Dyes like TransTint that can be used with either water or alcohol are prone to reactivating, and I use an acrylic spray to seal them after they dry and "set" for a day or two.  ...GG

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Re: that's gorgeous, Eliot!

It IS a Phil Brown! Barbara gave me one of his rough cuts that he did in 1995. So it's a collaborative in a way. You'll hear more about it this Thursday. And ,of course, Barbara will be there to critique it!

Phil and Barbara and all of MCW will be proud.

Great connection; great job.  ...GG