M.Sabin Smith finishing
Is anyone familiar with his finishing stuff? In particular, how about his coloring materials and procedure? More generally, what do you recommend for coloring prior to going for a glass-like colored finish?
Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
M.Sabin Smith finishing
Is anyone familiar with his finishing stuff? In particular, how about his coloring materials and procedure? More generally, what do you recommend for coloring prior to going for a glass-like colored finish?
Re: M.Sabin Smith finishing
He is an RPT. I have watched a number of his videos, and I like him.
He's a good demonstrator and very down-to-earth and practical.
He sells his own brand of finishing products called Hampshire Sheen: https://www.hampshiresheen.com/
His line now includes a coloring product called "Intrinsic", https://www.hampshiresheen.com/colours-2/
but if memory serves, I think he used to use Chestnut alcohol-based dyes. These (Intrinsic) are water based (which I don't like on wood), and his statement at the end about light fastness is very wishy-washy, so I would not personally trust them. Some water-based dyes (like Procion) are quite light fast, but most others are not.
I'll stick with TransTint or Dr. Ph. Martin Bombay India inks, the latter which are archival because they are pigment based. They come in a wide variety of colors and can be airbrushed.
Martin and Les Thorne share a business/shop called The Woodturning Shop: https://www.thewoodturningshop.com/
So how's Eliot doin'?
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Re: M.Sabin Smith finishing
Eliot, I wrote an article about achieving a glass finish. It's posted on my website: airbrushingwood.com. Go to the education tab and its the bottom article in the left column - Don Derry finish.
As for dyes, there are no lightfast dyes regardless of their advertising. All dyes fade over time. I did a test with several popular brands on maple and every brand suffered color degradation within 7 months of sunny exposure. (Transtint, Transfast, Chestnust, ChromaCraft, Solarlux, Keda). If you want color to last, use paint.
Re: M.Sabin Smith finishing
I'm doin' alright, thanks for asking. I'm always impressed with how much you know about all sorts of things. I probably should have waited for your post, but I already ordered a set of 12 water-based 125 ml jars of his stuff to give it a try. I'll let you know how it worked out after I fool around with it for a while.
Re: M.Sabin Smith finishing
I see that I also should have waited for your post before ordering these dyes. But we all have to go through a learning curve. I suppose I'll try to keep what I do out of the sun. How about mixing in some sort of UV blocker stuff?
Re: M.Sabin Smith finishing
Gary, what's a RPT? Perhaps a Registered Piano Technician?
Registered Professional Turner
https://www.registerofprofessionalturners.co.uk/
They have to test in -- not just join.
Re: M.Sabin Smith finishing
I have only tried UV finish over the top of the dye. Did not seem to help very much. But I only tried one brand.
Re: M.Sabin Smith finishing
Another question: I noticed in his video that Sabin started his coloring process with a dark undercoat, presumably to add some depth to the primary red color. Suppose, as I have right now, a wood that is already on the dark grey side. Will this grey act in a similar way to give some added depth, or will I just get a boring dull color?
Color-Fast
Elliot, As you now know, there's no such thing as permanent color. Our life-giving star will bleach out anything with enough time. I did a ginger jar in Box Elder as a wedding gift for some gay friends. They had the option to have the colors augmented with dyes. I explained that dyes or no, the colors would still fade over time. They asked if there was anything they could do to preserve them. I answered a) take a good photo and b) keep it in the closet.