Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Finishing Cuts
Don Stephan
More than once I've seen nationally regarded full time woodturners/educators advise for the smoothest final finishing cut, especially inside a bowl, to drop down a size on the bowl gouge. These are highly skilled turners who have excellent tool control. Why would a smaller bowl gouge give them a better "finishing cut?"
Re: Finishing Cuts
Reed Gray
No clue..... What continually perplexes me is that on one piece of wood, one flute shape, or steel, or grind, or grit of grind will work, and on the next, it doesn't work, but another variation will, and this is even on pieces from the same tree..... Biggest problems when turning the inside of the bowl, are following smoothly through the transition, and pushing too hard (any fans of the old band Seeds???). This is more about being impatient and pushing too hard on the tool, faster than the wood wants to cut. Some times it is pushing too hard on the bevel, and some times it is pushing too hard into the nose as it cuts through the wood...
robo hippy
Re: Finishing Cuts
mikeee12345
A smaller lighter tool provides a higher degree of dexterity making it easier to make light cuts compared to a heavier tool which requires more effort to control the tool. A smaller tool provides better feed back through the tool to "feel" the surface of the wood with your hand back to your central processor.
cutting edge?
John K Jordan
The smaller tool also presents a narrower edge to the wood and in some cases can make smoother cuts where a wider cut might tear out some fibers.
For example, I often use Hunter Hercules tools. I can get a smoother finish cut with the smaller 3/8" Hercules, I think since it uses a smaller diameter cutter than the larger 1/2" Hercules. I think the smaller cutter also cuts better in general for many things, especially with hard, dry woods.
In fact, I use the 3/8" almost exclusively to shape AND make finish cuts on both the bottom and inside of the small squarish platters. Just this last week I visited a shop and mounted a blank of dry walnut (maybe 8" diameter) and let the guy try both Hercules tools, one after another. He agreed the smaller cut easier and made a smoother cut than the larger tool. Bigger is not always better!
I do agree with Reed that different tools do different things with different woods. I often switch tools several times when cutting away waste while heading for the finial surface. In the process I make both heavier and finish cuts, then repeat with a different tool. I might even switch and try a similar tool with a different grind, for example a 40-deg vs a 30-deg skew.
By the time I get closer to the final surface not only have I found out which tool is best for that piece of wood, but my motions are refined and ready for the finial final finish cuts.
I do the same thing for both face and endgrain work, whether with the bowl gouge, Hunter, skew, spindle gouge, etc.
Ah, you can guess I won't win any speed turning contests! 
JKJ
Re: cutting edge?
Don Stephan
My "guess" is what you said - a narrower tool will lift a narrower shaving with the surface degradation and resistance that involves. But I wanted the thoughts of more experienced turners.
Re: cutting edge?
john lucas
I agree. I have had tearout problems using the skew on curly maple and would switch to my 3/8" detail gouge and it would solve the problem. I have also seen improvements when changing from a larger Hunter cutter to a smaller cutter.