shop update

Re: shop update

John K Jordan

Excellent!

Do you have a cordless impact driver made for hex-shaft bits? I generally use these on self-drilling self-tapping screws in metal, for roofing, deck screws, construction lumber, almost everything around the farm.

JKJ

Re: shop update

Pete in Holland MI

Talk with your foam guy. Might want to consider spraying the ceiling white before you go much farther. If the foam starts to yellow, it'll darken the room, and affect your color interpetation. Also, are there any fire code issues leaving it uncovered?

On the plus side, some lights broadcast on to that high white ceiling will help even out the lighting in the room.

Pete

Re: shop update

lyle Jamieson

Impact driver is much better on your body, wrist, elbow etc.

latest update

john lucas

Got the walls up on 2 sides today. should finish tomorrow. My electrician came buy today so we could discuss what needs to be done. He hopes to have all the supplies by tuesday and said we should be done by the 1st. Things are looking up. I'm pretty beat. We put in over 200 screws and even though they are self drilling it takes a lot of pressure and fair amount of time for them to start the hole. Maybe there are better screws for this but these are working.

Umm!  You missed a spot....

Barry Irby

Just to your left in the picture.

Looks good. Bring in the local middle school and let them paint the walls for you. One giant mural.

Seriously, Check with a good paint store about what to use for paint. I'm thinking a coat of primer such as Kilz. I'm a believer in the Original version. As a Friend says, if it don't stink, it don't work. Knowing me, I would stop with that, but a coat of semi-gloss would be good.

I know you are excited. And tired.

Re: Umm!  You missed a spot....

john lucas

Yea I will finish the walls today. If I'm lucky I'll get it painted before the electricial gets here. I think he said he would order all the parts and probably have them by Tuesday so I have a little breather.

Speaking of strength

Dick Coers

What kind of wind is that built to withstand? Maybe I missed a picture or two, but I don’t see any provisions for wind shear. I’d suggest you get real aggressive with the number of screws on the OSB. Wondering about snow loading too. Just not a lot of structure under that metal.

Re: Speaking of strength

John K Jordan

The panels will add a lot of strength to the walls.

The snow load in this part of the country is low.

JKJ

Looking Good John.  Nice Progress!

Re: Speaking of strength

john lucas

Yea that 1/2" of snow we get everytime is really going to take a toll. I am a little worried about winds but there are an awful lot of these around my area and most I see aren't built as well. The foam acts like a glue and is quite stiff and they built it up in the areas where it joins the roof.

Re: Speaking of strength

JohnV

having that area where the roof meets the wall is the best way to mitigate wind lifting of the roof. Codes in real high wind areas call for strapping over rafters or especially designed clips.

Re: Speaking of strength

JohnV

should have said having the area at the juncture sealed. ( Old brain syndrome.)

Re: Speaking of strength

Dick Coers

Gluing to a vertical stud does little for lateral loading. You need angular structure. But maybe you don't get any more wind than you do snow.

Re: shop update

Rum

I would recommend at least paint the ceiling with a non-fire-reflective and ideally an intumescent barrier (i.e. https://protective.sherwin-williams.com/coatings/categories/template.jsp?N=998).

While the closed cell foam isn't super super prone to ignition, another somewhat overlooked problem (that I remember from a presentation at one of the DOE labs I was at some years ago) is that it also provides a lot of reflective capability turning relatively small fires that might even go out on their own into super hot fires. They did a study with a quonset hut coated in spray foam with a fire in the middle (admitedly kind of an ideal reflector shape) and while the foam didn't actually catch it reflected enough heat back off of a small car fire to actually melt body panels, warp the frame, and the tires all went up. The control with even minor coatings produced a significantly cooler fire where the tires didn't even catch.

As noted by others it'll keep the yellow at bay as well

interior walls up.

john lucas

Gotta put some moulding on the bottom. There was nothing to screw the boards to down there so I'm simply going to push them into place and screw some moulding to the concrete to keep them snug. Everything else I could think of was going to be really time consuming. Not that this won't be.

just call me jealous for that shop!!!!!!!!!

Re: just call me jealous for that shop!!!!!!!!!

mikeee12345

Wait until the city or county reassesses his property valuation and raises his taxes.

Re: interior walls up.

Reed Gray

Difficult to screw molding to the concrete, impact drill and the big blue hardened bolt/screws. Might be easier to use caulking. Any wood in touch with the concrete will be subject to eventual rot unless you have a good moisture barrier under the slab and the sides are sealed any way. Concrete always has some water in it...

robo hippy

Re: just call me jealous for that shop!!!!!!!!!

mikeee12345

Wait until the city or county reassesses his property valuation and raises his taxes.

Re: interior walls up.

mikeee12345

Now would be a good time to coat the concrete floor with an epoxy or urethane, you could also use a densifying compound to harden and polish and seal the concrete to increase light reflection back into the work space and provide protection for the floor. Epoxy is a brittle finish whereas urethane will provide some flexibility to the surface when hard objects are dropped on the surface. A raw concrete surface will constantly add or subtract humidity from your work space depending on the moisture in the soil under the concrete. Putting a seal coat on the concrete will eliminate this source of humidity in the work space.

It happened at the last place.

Re: interior walls up.

john lucas

I left a gap between the wooden walls and the floor. I'm using plastic moulding so not worried about water there. I did have to go buy some shorter blue screws. My drill would go down a short ways and then hit something really hard about every 4 screws and you could not drill that hole deep enough. I don't have an impact drill but sure would love one right now. OH well I got one wall and one 8 foot piece up this morning. Going to go out and work for a little while this afternoon but not too hard.

going to look at a painted floor

john lucas

I did that in the last shop and liked it. Just feels more professional which helps your attitude. Going to call my electrician and see if I have enough time to do it before he gets here. It's a pain in the butt doing all the cleaning of the floor beforehand but worth it in the end I think.

Re: interior walls up.

Barry Irby

John, I think I am late, but I have a new Bosch SDS drill I will loan you to drill holes in the concrete. It will drill those holes like "butta". I will mail it to you and you can mail it back when you are finished. Or you can keep it and make a $125 donation to WoodCentral.

Or you can check with a local Home Depot if there are any. Some of them rent tools.