interior wall construction

Re: interior wall construction

Reed Gray

I am wondering, given the spacing of the studs, if it is intended for 12 foot sheet rock panels? Maybe it is the metal framing compared to standard wood framing..... Maybe horizontal 2 by 4 stringers, then nail OSB to that????

robo hippy

Re: interior wall construction

John K Jordan

Can you buy 9' panels and run them horizontally?

Or run 1x4 furring strips on the metal and fasten the panels to those? I've never paneled a metal building so I don't know if there are any downsides to that other than losing a tiny bit more space.

JKJ

Re: interior wall construction

Don Stephan

Metal stud framing not clear. Add wood studs where needed. Or build separate 2x4 wood frame just inside the metal studs. Not sure if metal studs will support wall storage cabinets, and the 2nd inner wall would make room for thicker insulation.

Here is a photo

john lucas

I intended to post it but our power went out just as I hit the send button. I'll check and see if I can get larger OSB but I've never seen it. I like the idea of putting up furring strips. Would have to figure out how that would work.

Re: Here is a photo

mikeee12345

If you are mounting storage cabinets on the wall you might want to install some 2X6 or 2x8 horizontally in the wall to provide a strong support to carry the weight of the cabinets and contents. This usually ends up being an after thought which requires rework to provide structural supports for various needs. If you keep a drawing of your wall supports you won't be guessing later on when you hang equipment on the wall.

Are you installing a ceiling in the building? You could run a horizontal furring strip around the perimeter to secure the ceiling grid to. If you plan on making an attic space for storage you may want to use some vertical upright studs to provide support from the ceiling joist down to the floor on the wall perimeter.

Re: interior wall construction

Mike Brazeau

My first thoughts until I saw the picture was 1x4 strips but the spans you have to work with knocks that out. Does the company that designs and sells have any suggestion? As I said on FB, I have never seen anything like this structure before. Could wood with end brackets to fasten to the steel be used and put within the existing studs rather than on top of. Would large L brackets on the ends of horizontal 2x4 or 2x6 be sufficient? The flakeboard holds it all together in the end. Space and put sheets horizontally.

Re: interior wall construction *LINK*

Mike Brazeau

this intrigues me so I went Googling, Interior Finish of Metal Building. This fellow is using 3/4 T&G plywood vertically. The plywood easily provides enough strength. Not going to be inexpensive. It is a larger structure but same idea.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2gVyOqFtUAo

Re: Here is a photo

John K Jordan

After seeing the photo I'd consider stronger wood inside to hold 4x8 panels. How about a 2x3 stud wall inside on a PT plate (rip 2x6s), studs fastened to horizontal strips screwed to the steel, with ply or osb paneling? Should support shelves and such, unless maybe you store a lot of gold bullion on them.

Re: Here is a photo

Reed Gray

I would ask the contractor for suggestions. Looks pretty much like pole barn construction. In my old shop, they put up 1 1/2 inch hard foam and put sheet rock over that. It did work. There are several variations of spray foam for insulation, and you may need a vapor barrier on the metal, but again ask the contractors. After spray foam is up and trimmed, I would put 1 by 4 strips vertically to nail sheet rock or wafer board to. Ceiling needs to be insulated to for radiating heat in the summer and condensation problems. In my old shop, the insulation guy (price was about $50 more than buying the insulation myself) sprayed adhesive on the ceiling and used poles to put 6 foot long bats up. They used a white poly cover over it. Not sheet plastic, but had some fiber in it too...

The video below is a fair solution too. You don't want bare metal walls or ceiling...

robo hippy

Re: Here is a photo

Barry Irby

I would run a horizontal piece about 8'2" off the floor all the way around. Maybe you can buy some pieces from the metal building pieces. Or use metal studs. This would allow you to use 4 by 8 sheets vertically. I would go with something like 3/4" thick T & G OSB. This will allow you to raise the sheets and inch or so off the floor.

Let's call the horizontal pieces purlins. Consider running another purlin about 4' 6" off the floor and attach outlets to it. If the purlins are cheap and easy, you can run several rows of them and use thinner, say 5/8 T&G OSB.

I know you have mentioned insulation. Don't skimp. That thing is going to be hot in summer and cold in winter. Don't skimp on outlets either.

The reason to hold the ply or OSB off the floor is to stop the bottom soaking up water.

The OSB is cheaper than ply and can be painted white or a light color.

Re: interior wall construction

John Stegall

John, according to the Lowe’s website, you can order 4’x9’ osb panels.

Re: Here is a photo

mikeee12345

If you are mounting storage cabinets on the wall you might want to install some 2X6 or 2x8 horizontally in the wall to provide a strong support to carry the weight of the cabinets and contents. This usually ends up being an after thought which requires rework to provide structural supports for various needs. If you keep a drawing of your wall supports you won't be guessing later on when you hang equipment on the wall.

Are you installing a ceiling in the building? You could run a horizontal furring strip around the perimeter to secure the ceiling grid to. If you plan on making an attic space for storage you may want to use some vertical upright studs to provide support from the ceiling joist down to the floor on the wall perimeter.

Re: interior wall construction

Dick Coers

Maybe consider sheathing clips if you are using 7/16" OSB. You would have to screw them in though.

Re: interior wall construction

john lucas

John Thanks I looked it up and 4x9 is only a tiny bit more expensive. I'm thinking I might put biscuits in to align them and make it a little stiffer where there isn't a metal beam to support them horizontally and to help align them. Of course that assumes that I can even find my Bisuit jointer in the basement. I think I know where it is but I'm sure I don't know where the biscuits are because I remember packing them in the one of about 20 boxes.

Re: interior wall construction

Barry Irby

Instead of biscuits, run a 1 x 3 up the edge of each sheet bridging the joint and screw both adjoining sheets to it. If you have to you can cut shorter pieces to run between the purlins. Carefull, don't drive a screw into your hand. Don't ask me why I say that. I like the 9' OSB idea.

Re: interior wall construction

john lucas

Barry, that's the other option if the spray in foam doesn't come all the way out to the edge of the steel. If it does then I won't have room for a backer board and may be able to simply apply some construction adhesive to the edges before I butt them together. I'm running surface mount electricity so I should never have to remove the walls. The biscuits was just one thought

Re: interior wall construction

William Duffield

I can't help with the form factor or attachment, as I've never worked with steel studs, but I think you might find it useful to replace some OSB with Slatwall in strategic locations. Of course, you could later screw the Slatwall to the underlying OSB.

Re: interior wall construction

Dick Coers

Hanging is good, but I have a problem with hooks. The expense and attachment bother me. Personally if I was starting from scratch, I'd hang french cleats around the entire shop. Hang a cabinet and slide it around where you want it. Change layout, remove the cabinet and hang it on another wall.

Re: interior wall construction

Roger

No shortage of ideas huh? Here's one more. Check with the building supplier/contractor. They should know where some others like yours are for you to look at. I like the French Cleat idea.

Re: interior wall construction

Barry Irby

The T&G stuff would be great if it were available in 9'. How about something thinner, like a strip of aluminum you can screw into. Or just route out a groove in the foam for a 1 by 2. Or install the 1 x 2's before they foam the place.

Foam guy is coming tomorrow.

John lucas

After that I will have a better idea of my options. I didn't call.lowes to see if they had any of the 4x9 stuff in stock. Need to do that in the morning.

Re: interior wall construction

RP

You're making this too hard. Just clip it like someone already said. That's how they do decking on a roof. It's cheap, easy and it works.

RP

Re: Foam guy is coming tomorrow.

Barry Irby

A couple of thoughts. I seriously doubt Lowe's will have it in stock at 9'. They, or anybody else will have to order it.

Several people have suggested clips. I used thousands of them on roofs when I was a builder. My recollection is they were not required on panels over a 1/2" thick so it may be tough to get them for thicker stock. I doubt they will be snug enough to stay on a vertical edge without glue or tape. And I would not like the appearance, but that is just me. If you could find some full length ones it might look better.

It occurred to me you could run full length battens on the inside. Easy-peasy.

And, you could put up full height battens on say two foot centers over the foam and then install the OSB over that. 16" centers would be better. Keep the bottom edge an inch or so of the floor. In case water gets on the floor. And it will.

Re: Foam guy is coming tomorrow.

John K Jordan

Not the big box store, but a (real) building supply in Knoxville carried some sheet goods in both 8' and 9' lengths.