Tailstock question

Re: Tailstock question

John K Jordan

Tom,

A keyway can easily be broached by a machine shop. (some info on broaching: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broaching_(metalworking))

If you typically use a lot of force I suspect a wooden tailstock crank might not last long, even with a metal insert.

I don't have broaching capability but I think a stronger wheel could be made without much trouble from a steel or aluminum disk.

But with a plastic handwheel I wonder if that lathe is not intended for much force.

JKJ

Re: Tailstock question

john lucas

You can buy metal handwheels that are often pre bored with keyways. I think Grizzly has some but I bought my last one from a place called Reid Tool Supply. I don't know if they exist or still go by that name. I'll look. Enco also had them I believe but I think they were also bought out, possibly by McMaster-Carr.

There are a ton. *LINK*

john lucas

I just put in Handwheels on a google search and a ton of places came up. MSC direct is one place I was thinking of. Here is another I foundn


http://montgomerycountywoodturners.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/1606-YMMV-sphere.pdf

Re: Tailstock question

George Balock

Since no one has answered regarding your live center removal question, I’ll give it a try. Since the quill is not hollow, I have to assume it is the self ejecting type.

If it is, there could be a couple of reasons it’s not working. One is that normal wear is causing it to not work well. Another is that the live center is too short to engage the ejection pin. Try something with a longer Morse taper like an adapter that has a tang on the end. If this ejects easily, then that’s the problem.

While your in the process of replacing the hand wheel, you could have a machine shop bore out the tailstock so a knockout bar could be used.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Re: Tailstock question

Dick Coers

You may be able to get an exact duplicate from Grizzly. If the Chinese knocked off that design and made replicas that is. After that, look at McMaster-Carr.

I have in the past used an open end wrench.....

JamieDonaldson

....to pry out the live center on my old General lathe that doesn't self-eject. Just select a wrench size that will go over the tailstock guill, and give it a twist.

Re: I have in the past used an open end wrench....

John K Jordan

>>>....to pry out the live center on my old General lathe that doesn't self-eject. Just select a wrench size that will go over the tailstock guill, and give it a twist.

I use that method constantly on my lathe to save the time it takes to back the tailstock completely to eject the live center. I use the small end of the Nova chuck wrench which is thinner than most wrenches and fits nicely between the back of the live centers and the front of the quill.

Seems like someone else inserted a short length of steel rod behind the live center for a case where it didn't eject properly. Could possible epoxy a short piece on the end to make the center a little longer.

JKJ

Re: Tailstock question

Tom Norton

I found one at Grizzly. It will need to be bored out to the correct size. Then I will need to file a keyway. I found McMaster Carr has some specific files for doing this.