I'm very pleased, and yes it is VERY long. Bought the Robust quick change chuck and made a handle out of thick walled aluminum, welded a solid chunk in and compression fit the robust chuck into it. Turned the end and use a set screw in case I want to put another chuck on the other end. Of course it had to be powdercoated Ravens blue (with "Disco Nights" as a topcoat). It is the same diameter as my Hosaluk handle but looks a lot wider.
About to turn with it for the first time but DANG I'm going to love how convenient is is to change gouges. Comments welcomed. Thx for lookin'.
Personally not a fan of metal handles. They always feel cold, even in the summer. If it's not my imagination, it feels like more vibration can come through them as well. The only one I really like is the Hannes Tool with the tri-lobe cover.
I switched all my tools from Sorby to Thompson Tools including his handles. I much prefer the shape of his handles in my hand compared to the round wooden ones, but each to their own.
....plastic tubing to go over the cold metal, just like the original Hosaluk handles. The color on the metal tube will still show through the plastic, but be much more friendly to the hands on these cold winter days.
My shop has heat and air. I do have some metal (aluminum and steel) tool handles. I like the Thompson are the best.
But I admit two things. One: my favorite metal-handled tools are those covered with a tough flexible foam rubber (monster). But,
Two: my favorite tool handles are not metal, but wood with metal adapters hold various tools. I simply prefer the feel of wooden handles, perhaps textured a bit and with some shape.
I make most of the adapters, sized from 1/4" to 5/8". I like the idea of the collet method you used - if my place in life was turning big wood with big tools I think I'd make some of those (but probably with wooden handles). However, for small tools the bulk is more than I want.
In case you are interested, some details. I've posted about this before but I think you were on vacation or something.
These use the set screw method to hold the tools, similar to what has been available for a bunch of years. I keep a T-handle hex key stuck to the front of the lathe with a magnet, might come in second in a race but still no slouch. I make the adapters from steel, brass, or aluminum, some on the wood lathe.
If interested, here are some pictures. Those for 1/4" and 3/8" tools are pretty small so I can better "choke" up on the tool when turning one-handed.
I like to embed the tool deep into the handle for better control and so the amount sticking out can stay the same even when the tool gets short.
Skin temperature depends on air temperature and time spent in that environment. Such weather factors as wind chill and humidity cause changes in skin temperature. The normal temperature of skin is about 33 °C or 91 °F.
I'm not sure where I picked up that factode but it surprised me.
No, I do not have thicker skin in fact just the opposite as I've gotten older it has gotten much thinner on my arms. I have to be careful going thru a door way as scraping or rubbing it can peal skin back very easily. Uck!
The big thing for me concerning temperature is one property of metals compared to rubber and wood. If any lower than the hands the heat transferred to a metal handle will quickly move into the handle and the handle will stay cooler until completely warmed. Conductivity in wood, of course, is different.
BTW, I usually keep my shop at 63 F in the winter, mostly since I'm dressed warmly for farm chores and if warmer than that it feels too hot (I'm in and out a lot). If I'm going to be there for a few hours I push the button which bumps it up 5 degrees.
Another perhaps interesting tidbit about skin temperature. I discovered that I could change the temperature of my fingers entirely by thinking. I had some laboratory thermometers, one has maybe 3/8" between each degree F so any change was immediately obvious. Just for fun (and as a biofeedback experiment) I held the bulb of one in my right hand between thumb and forefinger and tried to "will" my hand to be warmer. I found that I could, but oddly if I thought "hot" for my right hand it did nothing but if I thought "hot" for my left hand the temperature in my right hand went down, only a few tenths of a degree but definitely changed. I made it go up and down a couple of times until the epoxy set up for my metallographic sample and I had to get back to work!
I discovered years ago if going out in the cold if I simply relaxed I felt much warmer than if I tensed up. Hmm, maybe it's time for another skin temperature experiment, maybe with some thermocouples.
Thanks. There is certainly no need for handles to be fancy but I think they are perfect for practicing technique! The two larger ones are made of bubinga and persimmon. I like the look of the brass insert - maybe I'll make some more like that.
My chemotherapy after surgery used a platinum based drug. It destroyed the nerves in my hands and feet and for a while even my tongue and lips were paralyzed. The lips and tongue got better; the hands and feet got worse.
Now my hands are extremely sensitive to cold. I cannot hold a hold drink unless it is in a plastic glass or insulated cup. My hands hurt most of the time for no reason; sometimes they are just plain numb which makes it hard to feel a tool; sometimes they itch for no reason; and sometimes I get sharp pains in individual fingers that are maddening.
The most debilitating aspect is the cold sensitivity as I cannot bear to touch the lathe or metal tool shafts when it is cold. Cold is a relative thing to me...if it is much below 60 I am in pain. Touching ice cold anything gives me sensation that is akin to being burned.
But for all the complaining I am still here to complain and for that I am thankful.
