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Brass aluminum

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Brass aluminum

#1

Brass aluminum

Roger

Will normal HSS tools work to turn brass and aluminum?

Re: Brass aluminum

#2

Re: Brass aluminum

tomB

I use HSS scrapers when turning brass and aluminum. Have never tried a gouge, I think it would wreck the edge pretty quickly

Re: Brass aluminum

#3

Re: Brass aluminum

john lucas

Well it does dull the edge but I use bevel rubbing cuts with my Thompson gouges. Regular HSS gouges will work as well. You can scrape, shear scrape or bevel rub. Usually I do it like wood. I try to cut as cleanly as possible and then if necessary shear scrape to clean up the shape or tool marks. You do have to let the tool do the cutting. Don't force it or you can get chip out.

Re: Brass aluminum

#4

Re: Brass aluminum

Mark Wollschlager

Beware the swarf. Wear gloves.

Re: Brass aluminum

#5

Re: Brass aluminum

Barry Irby

Also wear eye protection. If you get a piece of brass or aluminum in your eye they can not remove it with a magnet.

Plastic is just as bad, can't even see it on a X-ray.

Re: Brass aluminum

#6

Re: Brass aluminum

Reed Gray

So, what speeds do you use when turning metals? I only to a tiny bit, but generally go way slower than when turning woods.

robo hippy

Re: Brass aluminum

#7

Re: Brass aluminum

John K Jordan

>>>...normal HSS...?

Yes. I've used them for turning steel, a number of brass pieces, and a bunch of aluminum. I use mostly Thompson tools, skew, spindle gouge, scrapers. For steel, I used only a scraper ground the same as a cutter for a metal-cutting lathe.

Someone mentioned swarf - aluminum strands will tangle around the work. I've never used gloves. Tiny shards from turning steel are like needles, though.

One odd hazard when turning metals: when turning 360 brass I got some beautifully fine threads of shavings. Some fell behind the lathe. One came to rest on the top of a power plug in a wall receptacle. Some time later I unplugged the power and the strand dropped behind the plug and shorted across the plug hot and common. Flash of light, POW, left blackened brass residue on the receptacle cover plate. Next time I turned metal I taped a piece of paper to the wall as an awning over the receptacle.

JKJ

Re: Brass aluminum

#8

Re: Brass aluminum

Don Evans

I don't know about aluminum but brass can contain up to 40% zinc. The zinc gives it more or better machinability. This is according to McMaster's web site.

So I guess a lot depends on what brass you have or purchase.

Don

Re: Brass aluminum

#9

George Balock

Re: Brass aluminum

George Balock

I had the same thing happen with aluminum on my metal lathe. What a show!

Re: Brass aluminum

#10

Free machining brass

John K Jordan

On advice of experts I bought "free machining" 360 brass: copper, zinc, and a tiiny bit of lead. This turns nicely and machines like a dream. Polishes easily too.

One thing I found out the hard way - work hardened brass is no fun at all. I bought a thick rod that with hindsight, had evidence of repeated heavy pounding. This was even a problem on the metal lathe and drilling a 5/8" hole was a nighmare - took forever and the bit kept chipping and dulling. All-knowing Google said next time heat it with a torch then quench to anneal (the opposite of steel.)

JKJ

Re: Brass aluminum

#11

Re: Brass aluminum

Roger

I had figured slow speed and feed. I have some 1/8 x1/8, 1/4 x1/4, and 1/2 x1/2, 10% Cobalt that I use to make boring bar bits. They should work to turn the brass or aluminum, don't you think?

Re: Brass aluminum

#12

Re: Brass aluminum

John lucas

I use fairly fast speeds but the feed rate of my tool.is determined by feel.and watching the curls.

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