Goblets

Re: Goblets

Jorge

still playing with the proportions, stem too fat and base too heavy

How do you sand the bottom? Fingers short for the job

Re: Goblets

Barry Irby

I knew someone who finished them with thin CA glue. They said that made them dishwasher safe. I doubt that and would not recommend putting anything wooden in the dishwasher.

To sand the inside, try using a smaller soft sanding pad on a mandrel with a larger disk with slits cut into the sides to make it fold up around the edges of the disk. I use a 2" mandrel with 3" sand paper. Hook and loop sandpaper.

Re: Goblets

Darryl Hansen

rather use epoxy or some sort of harder finish than lacquer. I leave the goblet on the lather running at slow speed till epoxy or

"bar type urithane finish" until it sets. For sanding something deep I use a surgeon clamp with the paper wrapped around it. I have a couple of them one is about 6 inches the other about 12. they are cheeeeep.

Re: Goblets

Jorge

Thanks Barry

Re: Goblets

Jorge

Thanks Darryl, I remember Carole recommending that long ago, but around here nobody carries the hemostats. Where do you get them?

Re: Goblets

Jim Barbour

Ditto Darryl on both the epoxy and the hemostat. I have found Smith and Co. thin epoxy sealant to work well. I get it through Star Distributing, but I am sure there are other dealers as well.

Re: Goblets

Barry Irby

Be careful with Hemostats. DO NOT stick your fingers through the holes in the handles. If it takes it away from you it can twist them up badly.

Re: Goblets

Jorge

Thank you Jim

Re: Goblets

Jorge

Thank you Barry

Re: Goblets

Jim Barbour

I have taken sugru (a malleable glue) and completely filled the finger holes on my hemostats I use for sanding so it is no longer possible to put my fingers through them.

Re: Goblets

Roger

Try long nosed needle nose pliers with the sand paper on a 2" interface pad. Don't know what your hand problem is but I've lost most of the feeling in the thumb and first two fingers on each hand, and this has worked well for me. Good luck.

Re: Goblets

Don Stephan

For several years my finish for wooden bowls has been a wiping varnish made by combining equal parts good quality mineral spirits and Pratt & Lambert 38 alkyd varnish. I mix small quantities in a quart paint can, but it starts to thicken in about 3 days. I'm finding a Stop Loss bag works well for the varnish itself, I haven't tried putting the mix in a Stop Loss bag.

Using a bit of rag, thoroughly wipe on (several times quickly) the first coat, immediately scrub as dry as possible with clean paper towels, and dry overnight on a nail board. Succeeding coats wipe on a wet coat, immediately scrub dry with clean paper towel, and dry on a nail board, two or three coats a day, until desired sheen results.

My red oak cereal bowl now has 25 months of daily use, and I wash with the soft side of kitchen sponge and a drop of mild liquid dish soap, towel dry.

If you can't find P&L 38, you might look for another brand of alkyd varnish.

Re: Goblets

John C Lucas

I use the Hunter #4 to finish the inside and just barely have to sand.

Re: Goblets

Jorge

John yes, I used the #5 Hunter and had a smooth finish, I had a stroke in 2012 and as results lost my grip in my right hand and my hearing on the left ear, then arthritis got really bad, by2015 my right hand was quite useless, I have improved a lot since, but between the bad grip and the painful joints, I cannot use a scraper or the Hunter these days.

Re: Goblets

Jorge

Thank you Don, I'll look for it

Re: Goblets

Jorge

Thank you Roger!

Re: Goblets

John C Lucas

Do you use a negative rake scraper. They require almost no force to do their job. With a long handle you would have plenty of leverage to hang it over the tool.rest far e ough to do a goblet.

Re: Goblets

Dwight Rutherford

Harbor Frieght has hemostats, regular size and giant size.

Re: Goblets

Jorge

That is an idea, I'll have to make a long handle and mabe a tool rest as well, the kind that goes inside the bowl Thank you

Re: Goblets

Jorge

Thank you Dwight, good to know

Re: Goblets

lyle Jamieson

OK I see it clearly now. Go back and revisit the Kobra system option. It will take all the work and fear of catches. If you are getting catches with the Kobra look at my setup instructions and pretend you got it from me. My system with the Hunter carbide cutter in slicing mode (not scraping) will leave it with no sanding needed. The Kobra should be able to do the same. If you have the laser it will save you a lot of time, also and get your wall thickness uniform. A captured bar will be able to get into the same small sizes, like a goblet, as you can reach with hand held tools.

Re: Goblets

William Duffield

I think I knew that intuitively, but it sure doesn't hurt to be reminded again, explicitly and in no uncertain terms. I usually have a couple hemostats attached to my lathe bed or head or motor with rare earth magnets. They're great for holding synthetic steel wool for sanding and for applying finish.

Re: Goblets

Jorge

lyle, I am in a provisional mini workshop and have very little space, cannot set up the Kobra or stand in the other side of the lathe, the problem other than limited space are my hands. Thank you

Re: Goblets

John K Jordan

Inside: I try to cut cleanly then clean up with either a Hunter tool, a Sorby teardrop scraper, or with a small hand-held curved cabinet scraper. Then sand with 320+, some with the lathe slow but most by hand. Insides are smooth as glass with no tool marks or scratches. I know nothing about finishing to hold liquids.

I don't think I have any photos of the insides of goblets but this is the shape of the last one I made:

For my design "mistakes:

One in progress with a larger cup, stem a little fat:

I think the base on this one is a bit too big:

JKJ