Routing Question

Re: Routing Question

Keith Newton

Don, you probably won't have any chip out since your only taking half, but you could take three depth passes on the endgraing before taking any more off the long sides. That will allow you to go a little faster on the final pass to prevent having any burning from going too slow on your last pass.

Re: Routing Question

RP

I'm confused as to your technique. Are you using a bearing ogee bit? I was taught to go around the board. Not to cut the ends and then the sides; i.e. just keep rotating the board. Yes, you get tear out, but on the last cut there isn't any.

Raising the bit on an ogee bit I don't think is the way to do it for multiple passes. You should set it to the height you want it, then use the fence to keep the wood off the bearing. After you have made one complete rotation, move the fence back and use the bearing. At least that's the way I was taught and do it.

Raising the ogee bit, does not allow the complete cut area to be exposed to each pass. So, you are not doing multiple passes. Each time you raise the bit, you are cutting new wood. If you understand what I'm saying.

I'm not a pro. I'm just a hacker who's made tons of mistakes.

Maybe I'm wrong.

Maybe someone else will have some better help.

RP

Re: Routing Question

Paul Grenier

You should start out with the ogee bit at final height and use the fence to increase the depth of the cut. To do this, you would make a pass completely around the piece - the use of a backer block is always a good idea with boards of this width - with the fence set so that you take no more than 1/2 of the depth of the profile in one pass. Cherry is especially prone to burning, so I always make 1 last pass that is the equivalent of 1 or 2 layers of blue painters tape thick. I accomplish this by applying the layer or layers of blue tape to the fence and then removing them for my last pass.

Re: Routing Question

John C Lucas

If you route the ends first and take several.light cuts any chip.out will be removed.when you route the sides. If you really think you might get chip out that is bad enough that the next cut wont remove.it then you need to clamp a scrap.piece.of wood to.the exit side of the endgrain cut so any chip out will be in that scrap piece.

Re: Routing Question

Don Evans

OK, thanks to all of you. I think the only mistake I made is not going with the final depth from the beginning. That really simply thing makes it much easier.

I, having never done this type of cut before, was really reluctant to do that.

To answers some of you questions:

Yes, the bit has a bearing.

That is a neat tip with the tape on the fence but I'm fortunate to have an Incra table with their Wonder Fence. I can change the setting on the fence in 1/1000th inch movements!

Yes cherry burns like crazy but I didn't worry about it as this will be painted dark brown.

For the ends I was using the pin and bearing on top for stability. The books I have used a wooden fulcrum instead of a pin. Seems to me either of those would be ok.

I'll go out to shop and do the final cut today, at least I have the confidence that it should go well. Thanks much!

Don