Small Drive Center??

Re: Small Drive Center??

John K Jordan

>>>As I venture back into turning I would like to add a small drive center to my kit. I see some on eBay for about $25. Would appreciate any suggestions or if someone has one they would like to part with!!

Tom,

I turn a lot of thin spindles and my hands-down favorite is a 1/2" steb center with a spring-loaded point. I've been using one for many years and I use it with nearly all spindles, even most larger diameter than "thin." Sorby carries one but it might be hard to find a new one for $25.

You could make one from a cheap cup center (with a point) by grinding little teeth around the cup using a metal-cutting disk on a Dremel. That should work as well. However, I wouldn't want one unless the point was spring-loaded - you'd have to drill a larger hole each time to keep from splitting thin spindles from hard wood.

BTW I also use a 1/2" steb live center in the tailstock. I like it better than some of my other live centers because it is more compact.

You can also get a short, fat steb center that is gripped by a chuck. I have one but don't use it since the #2MT center is so much more convenient.

JKJ

Re: Small Drive Center??

David Walser

I use the Oneway "Safe Driver". It's a cup center with a spring loaded point. I believe the cup is 1/2" in diameter, but Oneway is up in Canada so it might be some inscrutable metric measurement that not even God understands. I used a round file (like you'd use to sharpen a chain saw) and put 3 grooves in the cup, giving it a bit more bite. I really like it and never use my 4-prong drive center anymore. It's available from many of the usual suspects. It costs about $40.

If you want something smaller, Craft Supplies sells a 3/8" 4-prong drive center made by Precision Machine for $28. I've not used one, but Precision Machine makes good stuff.

Re: Small Drive Center??

William Rogers

I have some Nova chucks and have been using the drive centers that fit the chucks. I have 1/2 and 3/4 steb and the Nova 4 prong. I really like the 4prong for heavier work. I have MT steb drives, but prefer the ones that fit the chuck.

Re: Small Drive Center??

Tom Norton

I think I will try the idea with my old cup center and fill some teeth in it. Thanks!

Re: Small Drive Center??

Rum

I'm on my second one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M99DBL8

The first one I stripped the prongs off of after a couple months work, you could see the crystals in the metal where it cracked so it wasn't just my ham handed handling... The second one has so far been holding up better (and is a different color as well - the first one was black surfaced the new one is shiny like they're selling now so I think ?some? change was made, also they weren't selling them for about a year in the middle).

Re: Small Drive Center??

Bill Blasic

I too use the Nova Flexible Drive Centers and the wood screw as most everything I do goes into the chuck after the first operation. Removing the center or screw is to use the chuck is a lot easier than driving out the MT2 and putting on a chuck.

Re: Small Drive Center??

David Walser

The advantages of a chuck mounted drive center all depend on the type of work being turned. If you're roughing a bowl blank or pepper mill blank between centers, then chuck mounted drive centers save some time.

But, for small items, which will be held in the pin jaws of your chuck, items for which you might want a small drive center, a chuck mounted drive center is apt to be suboptimal. You'll have that large chuck right next to your work, restricting your access.

type of work

John K Jordan

>>>The advantages of a chuck mounted drive center all depend on the type of work being turned. ...

I agree - how many times have I heard "I do it this is the way" without describing the type of turning done.

- I find a chuck really gets in in the way for small things where I want to work close the the end

- A chuck can be a knuckle hazard.

- The thickness of the chuck limits the length of the spindle capable of being turned on a small lathe such as the Jet minis I carry to places.

This is how I turn thin spindles where even a small drive center can create stability problems: A chuck would be good for this except for a couple of issues, one, as mentioned, it gets in the way. I turn a short MT taper on the blank while held between centers then use the lathe spindle MT as a jam chuck.

This method has other real advantages as well for thin spindle over turning between centers or with one end held in a chuck.

JKJ

Re: Small Drive Center??

mikeee12345

I like turning a morse taper on the wood billet and inserting the wood billet directly into

the head stock bore. On shorter spindle pieces the morse taper will hold the piece securely

enough to part the spindle off on the tail stock end and proceed with light sanding while it

is still seated in the morse taper. You can then part the piece off from the head stock and

clean the bottom up on a belt or disk sander. This method provides the largest amount of

clearance when turning small pieces between centers.

The spring loaded drive centers also work great for spindle work and prevent the potential

splitting of the grain which can happen with solid drive point centers. Depending on the diameter

of your spindle piece these also provide good clearance for working the piece.

Re: Small Drive Center??

John K Jordan

>>>I like turning a morse taper on the wood billet and inserting the wood billet directly into the head stock bore. On shorter spindle pieces the morse taper will hold the piece securely enough to part the spindle off on the tail stock end and proceed with light sanding while it is still seated in the morse taper. You can then part the piece off from the head stock and clean the bottom up on a belt or disk sander. This method provides the largest amount of clearance when turning small pieces between centers.

Another big advantage of this method - I can knock the piece out of the taper and put it back later and it will be in perfect registration. Try that with a scroll chuck.

If I'm doing a long thing spindle unsupported by the tailstock I'll drill a hole in the wood and hold it tight into the spindle MT with a 1/4-20 drawbar. I turned some 26" long tapers like this, tapering from 1/2" down to about 1/16"

JKJ