Unhandled tools?

Re: Unhandled tools?

John C Lucas

Thompson tools and Hunter tools.can be puchased unhandled.

Re: Unhandled tools?

Jeff Smith

D-Way Tools - Dave S makes great tools

Re: Unhandled tools?

John K Jordan

I'll second Thompson tools. I buy all my tools unhandled and make handles. Not only are they cheaper that way I can make the handles the way I like them. I usually make the handles and steel or aluminum adapters so I can swap them quickly and also control the amount of tool extending from the handle.

BTW when I saw your thread name "Unhandled tools" I first thought it was about using tools with with out handles! I often do this for small work and for larger work with negative rake scrapers where is no significant force on the tool.

JKJ

Re: Unhandled tools?

Ralph Lindberg

I have both D-Way and Thompson tools. Both are excellent and both can be mounted on home made handles

There is one slight difference though, Dave (D-Way) polishes his gouges (and other tools) this makes honing gouges, beading tools, etc -much- easier if the flute is polished vrs the rough machine finish on my Thompson.

Both are miles better then any other brand

Re: Unhandled tools?

john in lutz

Although I really like D-Way tools I recently bought a Carter and Sons toolworks detail gouge. I wanted a very shallow flute and this one appeared to be best. Quite a bargain unhandled. I also make my own wooden handles with aluminum adapters for all of my gouges. I find the gouge much easier to sharpen on my oneway varigrind when I can remove it from the handle. Most of my bowl gouges have a swept back grind and I was struggling to get them like I wanted them when I had to work around the handle. Just something that works for me. If the gouge came with a handle I remove it and then when possible use that handle with an adapter or just make a new handle.

Re: Unhandled tools?

Ralph Lindberg

John, are you aware of how Carter & Son got started? After getting the story from Dave, let's just say I would never buy one of their tools, nor recommend them to anyone.

(Message Deleted by Poster)

Re: Unhandled tools?

Bill Blasic

I totally agree with Ralph! The vast majority of my tools are unhandled and I want them that way for one specific reason - sharpening. I'm not a production turner so I'm in no hurry, taking the tool out of the handle makes sharpening easier for me. At least 90% of my tools are Thompson Tools but what Thompson Tools doesn't make I get from D-Way. My hollowing system tools for many years have been the John Jordan Hollowers and the Kelton Hollowers and in the last few years the Hunter Tools have also taken their place in my arsenal. My only handled turning tools are scrapers and home made tools that basically sit unused.

Re: Unhandled tools?

Paul Grenier

With a few exceptions, I've converted all of my tools to Thompson tools as they are better than any of the Sorby tools that I had. The first tool that I bought from Doug, I bought with one of his handles and it just seemed to "fit" so well in my hand and was so easy to hold onto, that I decided that I would buy all of my tools from Doug with his handles. I could have saved $$, by making my own handles, but I liked Doug's.

Kelton ER collet handles

Ken Vaughan

The slickest handle I have found are made by Kelton using ER collets. The smaller one I travel with uses ER16 collets that run from tiny up to 10mm. Bigger handles use ER25 or ER32 collets.

ER16 collet set runs under $30 and the same handle will hold 1/8 to 3/8 round tooling nicely.

Re: Unhandled tools?

Chuck Engstrom

I've made several handles using compression fittings for plumbing/gas lines. I had to drill them out a bit, since many tools are a few hundredths larger than their specified size. But there are no set screws to mar the tools, or fall out into the shavings, or fit a different size wrench than the one you grabbed.

Great idea!

David Walser

Chuck -- That's a great idea. Thanks for sharing.

handled or unhandled, the dilemma

John K Jordan

>>>The first tool that I bought from Doug, I bought with one of his handles and it just seemed to "fit" so well in my hand and was so easy to hold onto, that I decided that I would buy all of my tools from Doug with his handles. I could have saved $$, by making my own handles, but I liked Doug's.

That's as good a reason as any!

But are you referring to Doug's old wooden handles or the new machined (and laser engraved!) handles with the set screw?

I like the new handles but not the older. I bought one skew with a handle and the steel sticking out past the handle was so long it was not useful for the way I turn. I find that a problem with most wooden handled gouges too, especially for smaller work. No problem for large bowl gouges.

When turning spindles I want a relatively short handle and a relatively small length of tool sticking out of the handle. I drill deep holes in the handles and the insert with set screws lets me sink the shaft deep into the handle if needed. This way if the tool gets smaller the amount extending can remain the same for a more consistent "feel" while turning.

One issue with the Tompson tools: he uses a shaft for most round tools a little larger than the conventional 3/8", etc. then machines just a bit on the end down to size before heat treating. Because of this when I make an insert with set screws I make the hole large enough to fit the unmachined part of the shaft.

But for me a big reason for buying tools without handles due to the way I like to work. For example, I think I have six of the Thompson 3/8" spindle gouges sharpened identically. When one gets dull I don't have to quit turning and go sharpen; I just swap for a sharp one then stop to sharpen when they are all dull. Besides saving the Tormek jig setup time, there is a space savings: a BUNCH of sharp tools without handles can fit in a shallow drawer!

JKJ

Re: handled or unhandled, the dilemma

Paul Grenier

I bought the new metal handles. I wasn't into turning when he was doing the wooden handles apparently.

Re: Great idea!

Paul Grenier

that's what this site is all about. turners sharing idea's and information freely.

Ditto Paul

Kiss

Jorge

My solution, extremely simple, maybe not the best looking but it work great and the cost is minimal

A small section of galvanized pipe of various diameters depending on the size of the tool, one hole to drill and tap. Presto chango, you have the ferrule for a handle. I like to have several options on the handle lenghts on the same tool, according to the job at hand.

Re: Unhandled tools?

Joe Fleming

I have lots of unhandled tools. I also take a lot of wood handles off of tools and rehandle them. I have many Trent Bosch handles, but plan to get some Thompson handles to try when I'm in Tennessee next month.

Re: Unhandled tools?

Jeff Smith

I agree 100% Ralph.

Re: Unhandled tools?

Philip Duffy

All my tools have permanent handles and each one is made to be identifiable. I know at a glance which tool to grab based on the fact I made the handle. No fuss

and no hesitation; each and every one is distinctive. Philip

Re: Unhandled tools?

Mike Stafford

I use short handles with aluminum ferrules for all of my spindle turning tools. I drill the hole extra deep into the handle so that I can vary the amount of tool shaft exposed. Since I like to turn with my tools in front of me my handles are usually 8" or 9" long. I like using these handles because I can reverse the steel and put the sharpened blade inside the handle for safe traveling.

I use different woods for each kind of tool. Birdseye maple for my 1/2" spindle gouge, curly maple for the 3/8" and plain maple for the 1/4". Similarly I use reddish woods for my detail gouges, bubinga, red narra, chakte kok. The gouges I use for hollowing end grain are handled with heavier woods like cocobolo, verawood and wenge.

All of my shorter Hunter tools are handled in white oak and have distinctive bullet shapes on the ends of the handles. My longer Hunter tools are handled with cherry.

I have been using these handles for so long I can almost tell by the patterns of the patina on the wood which tool is which. I much prefer the feel of wooden handles since my hands are so sensitive to cold these days. The cocobolo and verawood handles do feel colder than the other timbers.

I also have some schedule 40 PVC utility handles with different sized aluminum inserts glued in the ends so that one end will hold a 3/8" tool while the other will hold a 1/4' tool or 1/2" on one end and 5/8" on the other. These are the ultimate in lightweight handles and cheap to make.

I'm a real fan of the Hannes ergonomic handles

Dick Coers

As I age, I really appreciate the three lobe handles. Very light grip needed to can be used to help index the flutes (or whatever you call those things?)