Do any of you ever do this. I recommend it every time i teach. When you know you are going to throw it away you are more relaxed and feel comfortable trying new cuts. Thats how i learned the skew. I now play with fine tuning my cuts to get a cleaner more accurate bead for example. When i havent been turning for a while ( which doesnt happen often) i will just throw a 2x2 piece of pine on The lathe and turn it down to nothing practicing beads and coves with different tools. It helps me get the muscle memory back. As I grow as a turner i find that quality tool handling is all about very fine adjustments to the cutting edge presentation. When i havent been turni g in a while these tend to be gross movements instead of very fine movements. A practice piece takes care of this andets me turn my expensive pieces of wood.with confidence.
I'll grab a piece from the practice bin, round and turn some shapes for practice, usually with several tools (skew, Hunter, gouges) and see how perfect I can get the surface and cut, maybe try some texturing ideas, then throw it back in the bin Maybe I'll pull it out later and practice some more.
BTW, my practice bin is full of various sized spindle blanks that I keep for give-away and practice, kind of boring pieces of cherry, maple, walnut, sweetgum, etc, some with ugly defects. These are great for when someone comes for a skew lesson or something since we can grab a piece without thinking (and they can take a handful home for practice.) When I want some junk wood for practice I don't have to spend time looking though the stock deciding what to waste and what to save for a project.
Another practice thing I think we talked about before - when turning a "keeper" on either a spindle or face turning I like to make almost every cut a practice cut. This takes a lot longer than just hogging out the wood. I try to cut as perfectly as I can and sometimes I'll try variations on shapes then cut them away - occasionally I see something unplanned I decide I like better! I'll try several tools to see which I like better for that particular piece of wood and shape. And if I make a whole bunch of practice "finish" cuts near the end then by the time I make the last one my took presentation, hands, arms, stance, and motions are the best they will probably be for that piece. (but could still stand a lot of improvement!) I find this especially useful for things like bowls and platters, especially those with wings requiring "turning air."
I turned this ornament yesterday. It's about 3" long. This is something you can't do with a beading tool. Each bead is a different size. I marked the first one with my calipers, then tighten the screw to reduce the size for the next one and kept doing that. So each bead is a different size. I used Wally Dickerman's secret beading tool do to this. This is straight off the tool no sanding what soever. That's what practice will do. What I do to get such clean beads is I never use the nose of the tool (I use a Thompson 3/8" beading tool) I start with the flute very slightly tilted in the direction I'm moving and I start the cut on the wing of the gouge about 11 oclock or 1 oclock. Maybe even 10:30 or 1:30. This is then a slicing cut which is much cleaner. If I started with the 12 oclock position and roll the gouge which is what I was taught the wood is crossing the nose at 90 degrees which is a rather course cut compared to a shear cut.
Every Tuesday when I go to the Vet's Garage I pick a piece of scrap wood from the shelf and practice either using a specific tool or I practice a specific technique. My favorite to show new turners is the skew but I like practicing with gouges as well. Sometimes if I have a specific project in mind the garage is the perfect place to practice before I go home and put a nice piece of wood on the lathe.