What is the actual max core you have taken with a

Re: What is the actual max core you have taken wit

Dick Coers

Do you core all the way to the center? I usually have at least a 1 1/2" stub left on the bottom when I am stretching the capacity. Then pop it out with some pressure on the top when the wood grain is parallel to the bed.

Re: What is the actual max core you have taken wit

Jorge

In a 19 3/4" blank, I managed to get 17 1/2" core using the Oneway #4 knife.

And yes, I get 4 bowls out of a chunk.

Re: What is the actual max core you have taken wit

Ron Borowicz

Every time I get upset with my coring I refer to this video by Andy Cole...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeGbDYU6Cgs

Re: What is the actual max core you have taken wit

George Balock

I’ve gotten a 20” core out of a 22” blank. I try to get 4 cores, but the last one usually becomes something other than a bowl as I don’t hollow that out.

Re: What is the actual max core you have taken wit

Reed Gray

I think if I was going to use that style of coring with the McNaughton, I would have each blade in it's own handle. That is a lot of switching back and forth...

For how many can I get, well, for basic utility bowls, with a 6 inch thick blank, I would get 3 bowls total. I once turn green, rather than the twice turn method. Yes, I could easily get 4 bowls out, which is how I used to do it. I ended up with boxes of 3 to 5 inch diameter bowls which were more work to finish than they were worth. Now, I won't core less then 3 inches thick, and 10 inches wide. 4 by 12, yes I would core.

I did max out my McNaughton once. 22 inch blank. think I got an 18 inch core out of it and had to break off a 3 inch tenon...

robo hippy

The Cole video is interesting....

Barry Irby

I have never thought of his step by step method.

I suggest you check your knives. They MUST be a section of a circle. Draw some concentric circles about a half or 3/8" apart and see if your knives will fit perfectly between between them. Mine were nowhere near properly bent. Also, the tip should line up with the straight part of the blade and the top and bottom edges of the blades should lay flat on a flat surface.

If you draw the circles you can see what the cut will be if you lay a knife on it.

The biggest blank I can turn is 16". I routinely got four blanks out of larger blanks, but like Robo, I found very little demand for the smaller ones.

Re: What is the actual max core you have taken wit

Jorge

Robo, like you said, the smaller I seldom finish, it is easier to sell a 20" bowl that a 5", so most of the time those are firewood. But if a piece is a nice wood, Now and then I finish a couple bowls, a 5" and a 7" and whittle a couple spoon to go with them. I give away those to a baby, there are always babies around and that gift makes both the parents and the babies very happy. Babies love their wooden bowls and spoons!

I say as a joke that I am raising a new crop of costumers, well, last july i was at the farmer's market in our town, and a family was looking at my offerings when a boy, maybe 10 picked one up and started, "Momma, Momma"! Eventually the mother came and was undecided, the father came and took the bowl from the boy and looked at the foot of it, when he saw my signature JC, he declared Wow! same guy that made those bowls he still uses every day! He bought it...

So it is not a joke, I am raising a crop of new costumers...

Re: Thanks, plus a few comments

Ron Bauer

Thanks to all for your advice. I typically do take the cut down to

Re: Thanks, plus a few comments

Ron Bauer

The system dropped most of my last post. Here we go again. I do need to leave a larger nubbin because I typically go to <3/4". That was a great tip (why didn't I think of that??). My knives are fine regarding concentricity and form. I watched the video but I don't know how he accurately determines bottom of cut. At this point I will try to maximize my Mcnaughton before jumping on a Oneway. It is good to hear that it does perform as advertised. R.

Re: Thanks, plus a few comments

Barry Irby

Ron, I'm the guy who mentioned the concentric circles.

I was always a little baffled about where the tip was cutting. I made a "targeting device". Its a piece of Plexiglas About 16" by 6" with concentric semicircles. Pinch it between two jaws on the chuck Horizontally centered on the 16" side. Then slide the knife under it and watch where it goes. Jockey the post around until You like the path. Lock the post and head so that the knife follows the path. Then install the blank and make the cut. I had to move the post to get the blank in place. I carefully mark the position with blue tape on the ways and banjo so I can reposition the post.

On a valuable piece of wood I cut he biggest core first and then remount it and cut the second and so one. As I have gotten more comfortable with the knives I have cut the little one and then the bigger one and so one to save having to remount it over and over.

Re: Thanks, plus a few comments

Ron Bauer

Barry, I do somewhat of a similar exercise to determine the end point of the tip. I get the post set as close as I can by looking down at the top of the knife. Pretty standard. But then I remove the bowl from the chuck and make final adjustments on the tool holder post relative to the chuck jaws. It takes longer to explain than to do. Once I started doing this I quit having heavy cores or, worse yet, going through the bottom of the mother. I really do need to start coring from small to big, like you do, to avoid the rechucking situation. Thanks for the tip! R.