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Oneway 6" Faceplate

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Oneway 6" Faceplate

#1

Oneway 6" Faceplate

Tom Colligan

I had reason to order this accessory and upon opening the box there is a small strip that reads: "WARNING: The set screws in this faceplate will damage the threads on a soft shaft . . . Only top quality wood lathes have hardened spindles."

I wouldn't think tightening a set screw would be necessary here as the centrifugal force works toward tightening the faceplate, no?

Would any of you tighten the set screws when using a faceplate like this? I ask because this mfr must have reason for going to the extra steps in making this accessory with two set screws.

Thanks, and a quick apology for misidentifying my Jet lathe last week. I asked for advice about replacing the bearings in my lathe and I described it as 1440. Dick you were right as it is the 1442 model and not the (newer) 1440 model. Thanks and I learned something about a Reeves Drive Pulley. The YouTube videos showing how to replace the bearings on a lathe did not use a model having this type of pulley. I'm going to take a pass on the project.

Re: Oneway 6" Faceplate

#2

Ken Vaughan

Re: Oneway 6" Faceplate

Ken Vaughan

Tom,

The set screw is a risk reducer when running in reverse. Reverse can be desirable for a couple reasons, with the more common one being sanding. Thecfibers pushed down in forward are stood up in reverse sanding.

For a not-hardened thread, just drop a small split shot fishing weight into the hole and then install the set screw. Good practice to store the set screw in a drawer. They vibrate out and disappear in the shavings.

Re: Oneway 6" Faceplate

#3

Re: Oneway 6" Faceplate

John Jordan

They will stop a faceplate from unscrewing when turning a LARGE piece on a lathe that has dynamic braking (most modern lathes). I find snugging the faceplate with a wrench is more than adequate. I've seen a lot of mangled spindles because of locking screws.

John

Re: Oneway 6" Faceplate

#4

Re: Oneway 6" Faceplate

John C Lucas

I.dont have a Oneway or their faceplate but have had large pieces try to come loose with digital breaking. John's method works perfectly. Tighten the chuck gently against the face of the spindle. Then take your chuck key and snug it up. Then it usually only takes that much pressure to remove the chuck. Snapping the chuck into place with a quick twist that last 1/2 turn like i see many people do can result in a chuck thats very hard to get back off. I often turn my mirrors in reverse and have never had one come loose using this method. Thanks John for that tip so many years ago.

Re: Oneway 6" Faceplate

#5

Re: Oneway 6" Faceplate

John K Jordan

>>>...Then take your chuck key and snug it up. ...Snapping the chuck into place with a quick twist that last 1/2 turn like i see many people do can result in a chuck thats very hard to get back off.

I'm one who snaps the chuck into place and have been doing it for almost as long as I've been playing on the lathe. The difference might be I twist much less than 1/2 turn (maybe 1/8th turn) with a sort of "calibrated" wrist flick. I always use the chuck spanner wrench on the Nova insert and never have trouble removing it.

I do use the wrench when reattaching a chuck with a large piece mounted since my calibrated flick is unusable then!

I've bought a number of used chucks and have seen some inserts mangled by the set screws and a set screw broken from using the chuck key as a wrench. And one bent key - maybe the guy used a sledge hammer on the key on it to get a chuck off!

JKJ

Re: Oneway 6" Faceplate

#6

Re: Oneway 6" Faceplate

William Duffield

Set screws are available in several different types from supplies such as McMaster Carr and MSC. You can get them hardened or unhardened, and with different point configurations, for contact with threaded or smooth shafts, and either hardened or unhardened shafts. I think I like Ken's lead shot idea. A short length of brass round stock will serve the same purpose.

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