Rose wood

Re: Rose wood

john lucas

possibly system 3 mirror coat. It becomes very thin when it starts to cure and will penetrate small cracks. You might have to make a dam around the crack. I've never tried this but my other experiments with this epoxy suggests that it will work. It actually penetrated through red oak pores.. I've also used it to harden punky wood. Maybe someone will have a suggestion of a cure that will work for sure.

Re: Rose wood

Don Stephan

Is rosewood naturally oily and therefore hard to glue like teak?

Dick, listen to your better instinct, .......

JamieDonaldson

....and if there is any possibility that it might split while turning, glue is not likely to hold it together. Be safe and smart, follow the crack, and divide it into smaller pieces before it divides itself at your expense!

second that

GaryG in MD

A piece of wood is not worth a life-changing experience.

It grows on trees.

And you can have twice as many pieces -- more bang for your buck. ...GG

Re: Rose wood

Mike Stafford

Gotta be careful trying to glue rosewoods. Their natural oiliness does not allow glue to penetrate well. Combine that fact with your situation of trying to get the glue to flow into a crack and it does not bode well for success.

If you can wash out the crack with acetone, let that dry, immediately pour your epoxy into the crack and then clamp it shut you may be able to hold it together.

That is a lot of ifs and I wouldn't want my beautiful face remaining beautiful dependent on a bunch of ifs.

more info might help

John K Jordan

Without seeing the wood there are only guesses. You said the crack is "all the way across" which I'll guess means it is across the face of a blank you intend to use for face turning (bowl or platter). If this is the case, how deep is the crack? Is it across the center of the blank? Is the blank already cut into a circle on the bandsaw? A picture with the extents and depth of the crack highlighted by a marker might be helpful.

I personally would not try to get glue into the crack or try to fill it with something. It would still not give confidence in the strength and I don't happen to like visible filled defects.

If the crack is shallow and the wood thick enough, I might cut it away and make a shallow piece such as a platter instead.

If not yet cut round and/or if the wood is large enough I'd rather make a smaller piece (or three) that avoids the crack completely.

If the crack is deep, I might cut down the crack with the bandsaw and then consider what can be turned from the two pieces. I do this often and make spindle turning blanks instead. It might be perfect for a goblet or lidded box or a 100 other things. If the wood is too thin for that it may still be perfect for finials, ornaments, wands, handles, or a 100 other things. If you don't turn spindles your options here may be limited, maybe trade it or give it to someone else.

(PS. I love rosewood and love to turn spindles! )

JKJ

Re: more info might help

ebd

Another idea, if it's not already cut into a circle, would be to cut it lengthwise into 1"x2" (or thereabouts) sticks and cut them to make segments for an accent ring.

Re: Rose wood *LINK*

Jim Barbour

Slightly off the direct topic, but tangential. Has anyone else tried Smith's Oak and Teak epoxy? I have found it to work very well on oily woods, rosewood, cocobolo, teak, amboyna, bloodwood, etc.


http://www.smithandcompany.org/OT/

Re: Rose wood

David Walser

How large is the blank? If it's not too large, you can use Cactus Juice to stabilize the blank. It will fill a hairline crack. If the crack is larger, Alumilite casting resin can be used. If you're part of a turning club, one of the members likely has all the equipment needed for casting your blank.

Re: Rose wood

mikeee12345

Depending on the orientation of the crack, you might be able to apply a patch across

the blank to keep the blank from coming apart while turning. You could also use a band

around the outside of the billet to keep if from coming apart. The other alternative is using

CA glue in the crack as you slowly proceed with working the billet into the final shape. This

usually requires multiple applications of CA glue as you remove the layers of wood from the

inside and outside. This is a slow process and wastes a fair amount of CA glue, along with the

issue of CA glue will stain many types of wood during this process. Filling a crack with CA glue

usually requires applying the thin glue into the crack so it penetrates deeply into the void several

times and then following up with a medium density CA glue and following up with a thick density

CA glue depending on the size of the crack. CA glue is nasty stuff to work with with.

If you have a vacuum pump and vacuum chamber the resin application is easily accomplished with

a solid wood/polymer billet that will allow easy turning. This process will have some limitations on the

type of finishes you are able to apply.

Re: Rose wood

Roger

Think safety first then possible result against time and trouble involved.