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Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

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Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

#1

Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

Mark Wollschlager

I have turned a natural edge topped mallee ( of some sort ) box.

The burl is of the fissured type.

The primary finish is danish oil, which has cured nicely.

My next goal is to give it a more lustrous look.

I made the tactical error of using tripoli beall buff.

After a bunch of fissure cleaning it looks ok.

It looks like using any kind of wax would end up with the same extensive clean up.

I though about doing that and then using a heat gun ( probably better ) or a torch ( a bit rash ) to melt the wax buildup areas. That may also dull the more solid areas.

I could also spray a light matte finish. I find it hard to get an even finish on small round objects.

Anyhow any suggestions welcome.


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Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

#2

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

David Walser

Would you be up to filling the fissures with epoxy (or some other resin)? If you masked off the natural edge at the very top of the box, it wouldn't take too long to fill the fissures with a thick resin. (You might want to dye the resin a dark red/brown. The fissures would not fully disappear, but the resin wouldn't call attention to them, either.) Once filled and sanded down flush with the wood, you could buff the piece if you wanted to. Or, you could use lacquer or polly.

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

#3

just thinking...

GaryG in MD

How about one (or more) very sparse applications of WOP?

Just a whiff -- not enough to get into the holes.

You could then "adjust" the gloss level down, if desired, with an Abralon 4k pad.

That wouldn't make any dust.

I love your box, BTW; I've been meaning to make something like that for years.

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

#4

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

john lucas

Mark I have used Dremel buffs to do burl pieces. they are fairly stiff and don't leave fibers. You have to run them fairly slow because you can burn the wood. I have round tubes and small wheels. Usually one or the other will reach into the areas. If you want to use the whole bealle set up you'll need 3 of each. I think I bought mine from Harbour Freight when I found a deal on them but I haven't looked for a while on where to get them inexpensively.

To do the larger portion of the box I use 4" bealle buffs and I always buff across the cracks and splits not parallel to them. Reduces the clean up from fibers getting stuck in the cracks.

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

#5

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

Mark Wollschlager

I had been using a toothbrush to clean in the fissures, but the bristles are too thick to get into the tighter cracks. The stiffness of the bristle is the key.

I do have some rotary nylon brushes for the dremel that I will look at.

I am trying to use "softer than the wood" methods to avoid scratching and gouging. That limits needles, except with a veeery light touch.

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

#6

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

mikeee12345

Trying to keep a piece like that clean will be an issue. It would be interesting to cast the

the exposed burl surface in clear acrylic and then turn and polish the top smooth. This would

magnify the view of the raw burl surface and protect it from dust and dirt.

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

#7

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

Mark Wollschlager

After the finishes are dry, it's not too hard to keep it clean.

Compressed air and a small paint brush.

Even though I know it is a hot topic in recent years, I do not care for resin or fillers.

I really don't like plastic looking finishes, even though I am guilty of applying them.

There is plenty of room for difference in turning and finishing.

The tactile feel of the wood, the transition from smooth to natural, is important to me.

Plus I don't have to make more space for chemicals and casting gear.

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

#8

wax

John K Jordan

For porous woods like Eastern Red Cedar I like to use wax, beeswax, to be specific. I have beehives and a lot of beeswax. I have no idea how it would work if the wood is hard and dense.

If the surface is not perfectly smooth I rub a chunk of wax on the surface by hand then heat it with a heat gun (on the lowest setting) until it melts. A hair dryer should work. This works well on voids and bark inclusions. Rubbed with a cloth makes a soft luster. Then I use a little Renaissance wax on the surface. I would not use this on a piece like yours without trying it on a sample first.

These were finished that way. The first one looks the same after nearly 15 years although it doesn't get use. I gave away the second one so I don't know what it's like now.



JKJ

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

#9

Re: Final Finishing suggestions for a burl box

Mark Wollschlager

Long story short.

I cleaned up the wax buff and gave it a light touch of carnuba.

Wasted a bit of that on a piece of scrap.

The box buffed up very nicely, no buildup to speak of.

A little fuzz buildup. A little brushing and a very light torch cleaned that up.

A very light coat of renaissance wax to top it.

Overthinking things can be a curse at times.